Garden Tractor/Kohler Ticking (Pics)

I first want to thank eveyone for all the knowledge I get from here, I read alot and when I can, I help others. I have a Kohler 20.5hp I bought, it ran good for awhile, then suddenly started ticking on the right side. It has hydrolic lifters. The intake rocker is very loose. Can I adjust the hydrolic lifters, or is there another way to tighten it?
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I have seen the valve seats come out and of course it will hold the valve up and make excessive clearance on the valve adjustment. Do both valve stems appear to be the same height when closed? If the seat has come loose, I have pushed them back in place and staked them in with a center punch.
 
i second the valve seats, have seen several of them come loose from the head(poor crimp design) IF it is the seat look to see if its savable, i have Re penned the seat back in and had good luck with it holding :)
 
Use a feeler gage, check the valve lash. The clearance between the rocker and stem should be 0.004". If it's more than that you should tighten the adjustment nut a bit.
Another symptom that the valve lash is excessive is the engine maybe hard to start sometimes or will rollover but may have to turn the key again to get the engine to roll past the compression stroke on the right side.
 
Common problem in Kohlers. Run it fast idle for a half hour, and
usually they pump back up. Mine does it after sitting for a month
or more.
 
be sure you have the right oil in it, if you put straight 30 in kohlers they will tick, somthing to do with hydraulic lifters needing a multi-viscosity oil to function properly. Use 10w30 in them. My 2 cents
 
I have a 22 horse kohler in my craftsmen. I have had it for 13
years and it ticked until it gets warmed up since ii have owned
it. Still runs great otherwise and we dont baby it by any means.
 
Both intake valves have 1/8 in clearance. Both exhaust valves are closer tolerances. The ticking is only from the right side. I guess I should pull the heads and clean and inspect.
 
Before you tear into it and take the heads off, warm it up good, drain the oil, and put in Mobil 1 10w30 and a new oil filter. Might cure your tic problem. Post back, Tom
 
1, Take out the Plug
2, remove valve pan cover
3, turn engine (clockwise) by Hand till it comes up on compression stroke
4, then keep turning so the piston drops 1/4 " past top dead center

5, Adjust both valves to 0.04

many vids out there , but I don't agree with them.

some or most will say just open the exhaust valve first and adjust intake, the turn engine so the intake is open and adjust the exhaust ?? My theory is If the exhaust valve was too loose when any adjustment was made,then the setting for the intake would be off Although this is for a Briggs,adjustments should be the same .Both have ARC (Automatic Compression Realeases)
what do you think
 
Yeah it runs good, just a tick now. I haven't done anything yet. An oil and filter change is where I'll start. I let it run for about 45 minutes today and the ticking didn't go away. It probably sat for a year before I bought it, and it has been sitting here for about 8 months. I will let ya'll know before I pull the heads. How long should I run it with new oil and filter?
 
I would bet that one of the lifters is plugged up. What I would do before I spent a bunch of time and money on it is to flush the oil system out.

Just get some Kerosine/Diesel fuel and mix it 50/50 with new motor oil. Leave the old filter on. Drain the old oil out. Fill it to the full mark with the mixture. Start it and run it just above a low idle until it is good and warm. Usually on an air cooled motor that would be 10-15 minutes under no load.

Then just change the oil and filter like you always would. I have had this fix many, many hydraulic lifter noise issues over the years. I had a 1952 Chevy Pickup that told you to do that in the service manual every other oil change.
 
I have a 22 horse kohler in my craftsmen. I have had it for 13
years and it ticked until it gets warmed up since ii have owned
it. Still runs great otherwise and we dont baby it by any means.
 
I think I will try the diesel as oil an oil flush. (Thanks JD) Then new oil and filter with some seafoam and report back. Give me a few days because my wife is tired of typing all these responses for me! Thanks all!
 
My 2cents.:

Change the oil to a good grade of 10w30. It does not have to be synthetic, they run fine on regular 10w30 oil.

I do not recommend putting kerosene, diesel or anything like that in there for a 'flush'. You get the old crappy oil out and it will probably be quiet after it warms up.
If you want to add 2 oz. of Sea Foam to the oil that would probably be o.k. but keep a check on it, the Sea Foam will eventually evaporate and you will need to add oil. Almost all of those engines use oil while they run anyway.

If it were valves or seats you would have a noticeable lack of power. And there is no valve adjustment to that system. You torque the rocker arms and the lifter takes care of the clearance.
 

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