Diesel fuel tank repair

So I've got a JD tractor with a fuel tank leak. It seems that there is a crack along the seam of the tank about halfway up. I had the tank out a few years ago and put some JB weld on but that hasnt seemed to seal things up. Whats my next option? I'm nervous welding or brazing it but im sick of losing fuel.
 
Seams are very difficult to repair. I would try soldering it. Metal has to be CLEAN!
I've used ordinary plumbers solder and flux several times with good results.
If I was dictator of all the world the first thing I would do is outlaw the use of JB Weld.
 
I bought a 99 oliver diesel which had a leak - I took it off and steam cleaned the inside and outside then bought that tank sealer-followed the directions-so far it has fixed the problem! $35 well spent.
 
Remove the tank.Take it to a carwash and spend about 3-5 dollars.Wash the inside well-get it good and hot.Then it will be safe to weld/braze/solder.NAPA sells a "gas Tank Repair" that is similar to JB Weld.Formulated for fuel tanks,works quite well.
 
Any kind of welding or soldering is going to be tough after JB weld. I would try something else.. You may end up patching an area lager than the Jb spot
 
Well JB weld is junk when trying to use it around gas or diesel. Like Steve said the best thing would be to have it repaired. Several of the radiator shops around here will also repair fuel tanks.

If you are going to try some other type of sealer get soem that is made for gas/diesel. I have used a product called "Seal All". It is mad efor use around fuels. Clean up any oil around wehre you need to repair your tank. Then apply a thin layer of the Seal ALL. Then press some screen wire into it and cover than with more Seal ALL. I have done this several times with good results. Seal All is sold at various places. I even saw it at the Dollar store for $2.49 for a little tube. They have mnany sizes of tubes. So look around for the size you need.
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So I've got the JB weld all cleaned off. Managed to chip most of it off then sanded the rest down to clean metal. I'm thinking of trying the solder then putting the Seal-All stuff over top of the solder. Think that will work?
 
If you dont remove the tank you're wasting your time...There will still be fuel in the seam.An electric gun wont develop enough heat or 'burn' out the 'moisture'.I would not want to use a flame on an unwashed tank
 
Seal All is a great product! I've used it whenever I needed to over the last 35 years or so. I get it at the hardware store. I have used body putty on a diesel tank with good results, but Seal All is quicker and easier. Chris
 
(quoted from post at 10:39:36 01/01/13) If you solder it right you don't need no pucky stuff.
If you want to read a little story from when I soldered one of my tanks a year or two ago click below.
Here

I had to solder the drain bung back onto the bottom of a tank a couple years ago. As I was applying the solder, some dripped down into the tank and started the little residue of fuel burning. I guess it went out after awhile cause the tank wasn't hot when I put it back on the tractor.
 
On diesel and oil tanks that need mending, use the exhaust from a vacuum cleaner and put the hose in the tank. This will keep the fumes and smoke blown out so they can't reach an ignition temp or mixture. I used leaf blower once on a 500 gallon tank.

On gasoline tanks use the exhaust NOT suction to dry out the tank, then keep blowing when soldering or welding or brazing.
 
believe it or not but if you can get to the leak rub a bar of soap on it that will stop it for quite a while but get a new or used tank a lot cheaper than a funeral
 

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