retired farmer

Well-known Member
Was coming back from flailing cornstalks two weeks ago with the 1986 Ford 250 pickup, 460 with automatic transmission when the headlights dimmed several times and then stayed on bright. Dash needle never moved from center. Did it two nights in a row. Took the alternator off and had it checked, it was good. Took it to our COOP the next morning to have them replace both battery cables. They did and it seemed to start a little better. Lights dimmed several more times that night coming back from the field. Took it to back to COOP and told them to check the electrical system. Told them you had to lift up on the steering wheel a little to get the ignition to work. Called the next day and said they couldn't find anything. I told them to replace the headlight switch and fix the four way flashers. Went to pick it up and the battery was dead and whoever worked on must have been mad because they couldn't figure out how to start it and managed to break the shift lever casting in half so you couldn't shift the transmission. Left it set there for a week until I could find another good used steering column. Put it in and the battery was dead again. They jumped it and checked the battery, said it was good. Drove it back to the house and went to start it the next morning, battery dead again. Jumped it and it started right up. Went to start it yesterday and it was dead again. I pulled the positive cable and put a volt meter between it and the solenoid and have about a five volt draw with everything shut off. I am not much of an electrician when it comes to vehicle electrical problems. Anyone have an idea what might be drawing the battery down so quickly? I did find one body bolt laying on top of the air cleaner that they had taken out of something and didn't put back. Haven't had time to see where if might go. I know the battery and alternator are good. Thanks.
 
1. You allow the Coop mechanics to mess with your truck.
2. You have a lot of work trying to figure out what those monkeys did.


I only allow the Coop to put tires on my vehicles. I watch them do it. They aren't paid well.
 
Live and learn. They have two good people there and they evidentally didn't work on it. They have hired several new guys since their business is increasing and I think they just pulled them off the street and had them work on it. Have always had very good luck with them till now.
 
Clock. It never stops running. All new cars are like that it won't
pull a battery down. You most likely have a dead cell in the
battery.
Walt
 
I knew what caused that problem, wear in the tilt steering head, switch wasn't pushing a rod down far enough to make contact with the switch on the lower column. I replaced the whole steering column the other day. Thanks tho.
 
No clock, only a radio and heater and both are shut off. That is what I thought about the battery too but they checked it with a fancy tester and it showed ok. Everything had worked fine for years until the headlights dimmed on me. I guess I should have replaced the headlight switch myself, still don't know if that cured the first problem. Thanks.
 
Hadn't thought about doing that. Haven't been driving it since I got it back and then it turned cold so haven't had a chance to look at anything yet. Never had many electrical problems over the years so don't have much experience with trouble shooting. Thanks.
 
A leaky windshield.....

No, really! Your's is probably not new enough, but
my F150 was doing some of the things yours is
doing. Come to find out, there is a "brain box"
under the dash that controls a lot of the
electrical stuff. Even a small leak can have water
find it's way down to the "box". I replaced the
windshield, and problem solved (it was cracked
anyway).
 

My bet is that there IS a Diode that is bad in the Regulator..I don't care what those guys said...(since you find a 5v drain at the battery)..

Intermittent Open-Cirtcuit in the battery is common (New or Old)..
Test that battery, when it is "Dead" and see if it really is...

Too often, 1/2 hr later, that "Dead" battery will start the truck right up..if it is an intermittent open..
 
COOP did say that the battery showed a little overcharge, 15v instead of 14.7. I went to start it yesterday about noon and when I hit the switch the starter tried to turn over slowly and then quit. I could hear the solenoid click. I got the volt meter and put on the battery and it showed about ten and a half volts. I put the charger on it for a couple of hours and checked it when I got back and it still showed about ten and a half volts. I unhooked the positive cable and put the charger on it again. That is when I discovered the five volt draw with everything turned off. Checked it again and it was up to where it was supposed to be. Haven't tried it again. Left the cable undone. Too cold out to work.
 
Switch your meter to milliamps. Volts doesn"t tell you much in this case. From there, start pulling fuses and fusible links until the draw drops below 15 milliamps. Look for odd stuff like glove box lights or stuck power seat switches.
 
The draw is dramatic and will draw down the battery over night. The dimming of the lights while operating is a key. A short circuit is possible, but it is more likely an issue with the alternator.
Both problems can be caused from a bad bridge diode. in the alt. Loosen but do not remove the nut on the back of the alternator where the large wire attaches. Put your meter between the removed terminal on the battery, as before. Now remove the alt wire. If the draw goes to millivolts, That is the issue. If no change, then removing fuses one at a time is the next step. Set the meter so you can see it from the fuse box. Jim
 

10 1/2 Volts tells it ALL....

That Battery has a bad cell....and they will not start with 10 1/2 Volts..

The "Dimming" of your lights is when the battery drops to 10.5 V and gets Bright when the battery snaps back to 12 V..(all 6 cells working)..

I would try with a New Battery, before I did anything else..!
Ron..
 
A bad battery can have the effect, but the draw on the system, after charging, will take the battery down over night. With respect, Jim
 
Woth respect. the way I read the post he charged it normally with the terminal off. It then (and still has, I think) a charge. Jim
 
True. When I charged it with the cables both hooked up it still read around ten volts. I disconnected the positive and it charged to 14.7. Haven't checked it today to see if it is still up.
 
Had a 79 ford that run the battery down. Put the amp meter in between the positive post and battery. It had a 2 amp draw on it. I started unplugging everything one at a time. Long story short it was the voltage regulator that was drawing the 2 amps. On that truck it was external.
 
You were correct to use the voltmeter at the battery as you described. Disconnecting one thing at a time until the volt reading drops to zero will find the problem. Easy on a tractor, more difficult on vehicle with has lots of things in the electrical system.
 
Don't know what your problem is ,but this may help you to know if you got it fixed. Our 1981 F350 with a 460 if I remove the battery cable and test for miliamps of draw I get ZERO.
Now on my JD5105 tractor I get 2.4 miliamps draw and over time it seems to drain the battery down.
I'm half tempted to put a Ford ALT. with external regulator on that JD !!!
That 1981 Ford sits ALOT and I just put a new battery in it. The last one was from 1999 !!! Never had one last that long in anything.
 
(quoted from post at 02:37:54 12/27/12) When I had a problem like this, I pulled one fuse at a time to see where the draw was from.

Had similar problems with a Ford Expedition (or I thought that was the problem, turns out not) and that is the accepted way to do it, mostly, but there are certain things that have to be done first, like run it for a certain period of time and not cut the current to system. Didn't keep the instructions but they are readily available on the 'net. Check out the various forums.
 
(quoted from post at 04:04:35 12/27/12) A leaky windshield.....

No, really! Your's is probably not new enough, but
my F150 was doing some of the things yours is
doing. Come to find out, there is a "brain box"
under the dash that controls a lot of the
electrical stuff. Even a small leak can have water
find it's way down to the "box". I replaced the
windshield, and problem solved (it was cracked
anyway).

I believe it's called the GEM module. Sealed the windshield on my Expedition with silicon (thin bead of black around the rubber seal) and cured the leak and the dripping on the electricals under the dash.
 
Hello retired farmer,
Now that you know it is not the battery, but something that is making it go dead, you get to be a detective. While you have the voltmeter in series, you need to disconnect one fuse at the time. If all goes well, one fuse will tell you which circuit is the problem. Easy one to check is the glove box light. Good Luck.....
Guido.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top