Big Surprise....the 1566 Got sick again

Man I hate this tractor... I've never had anything work worse...

Got around another 25acres left of heavy subsoiling to do - Was working it real hard Wednesday - I blew oil out a hole immediately forward of the Starter motor - there are two holes there just behind the engine block...assumed it was engine oil - perhaps a relief valve - besides smoke - thats all I saw.

I generated a new hydraulic leak out the rear hydr spool valve - facing the two valves - the one to the left - It was leaking like a stream so I turned it about 5 full turns it stopped - but the 3pt lowered really slow - this made it harder to rip as the draft control would lift it up but it was VERY slow to go back down - I took back the 5 turns but the 3pt remained slow to lower.

The next day it was clear hyd fluid had come out from under the seat...don't know why or how - but it did...

Started the tractor up and had intermittent steering, clutch and brake - better a real low RPM than high - But - continued to rip - used the ripper as my brake and the clutch was hard - but worked.

As the oil gets hot - the clutch begins to try and work on its own...same with brake same w steering - could feel the tractor lunge and stop and then made some louder terrible screetching sound - like clutch automaticall depressing and or brake automically depressing -could see the gear levers shaking and once they popped out of gear.

So Out to the edge of the field we went - if I lowered rmps to drive out - seemed to get massively better and had part clutch and brake and steering back...higher RPM's wreck all that...

I don't know what I'm gonna do with this thing...its been a money pit all fall....

Any ideas? I really need to finish the last 25 acres...is this off the table...winters comin...

I run it about 5 gallons over for hyd fluid and put in some more hoping that would solve my ailments...but no - no diff...couldn't rip yest doesn't seem like I can today either..

FUBAR

You are finding out why it was a cheap tractor. Old tractors of any brand can get to the point that they are not worth the trouble/money/aggravation to fix everything to work right.

well if it was a horse i would just shoot it and be done with it . Ya got good insurance on it Fuel leaks happen . But i did not say that.

Your not gonna believe this - my neighbor told me sometimes he'd have to change his filter every 9 days of run time on his 1066 and told me his tractor would behave the same way...

So I just replaced the two month old filter - that has about 60hrs on it and it was REALLY dirty and partially indents on it...maybe from suction????

Anyhow - seems like I'm back in business - everything back and seems OK.

I change the trans filter every 250 hours on my 1086 and it's never been close to being plugged. It has a twitch over 16000 hours on it now.

Your 1566 makes me think of my 98 Dodge Cummins dually. I call it my $1000 pickup cause every time a wrench is laid on it the bill is $1000. Had the clutch replaced last week. It's a two wheel drive so the clutch is super simple. Don't feel like doing it myself because of my body (grr). Bill was a little over $1000, and by the way, they said the rear end is real sloppy and they found chunks and filings when they drained it. That explains the whine! Gonna find out what a rear end costs next week!!! Shoulda sent it down the road a while ago but darned near everything is replaced on it now. Good luck with the rest of the ripping. Jim

Hi
That applies to certain newer tractors as well had a 2003 green one in the shop front wheel assist was falling apart 3500 hours on it. The guy is not rough on stuff it looked like new. He was not real impressed when he got the parts ($3000 worth). JD guy told him take it and beat the C#$p outta it, said he would feel better about repair costs then.
I saw this thing on a truck and there is a new one on the yard, Gone before some other more expensive stuff fell off from what the guy told me.
all colors have there issues in the last 10 - 15 years.
My smaller customers want to fix older as dealer shop and newer used is way to much for there budget, and can be more expensive problems on $60.000 newer used than older stuff like this 1566 some times.
Regards Robert

you need to cut open your old filter and see if you can determine what is stopping it up, 60 hours ain't no time on a filter sounds like somthing is comming apart,ran into this several times on smaller jd's ,brakes would start comming apart and stop up filters faster than you change then

I priced one out a year and a half ago. All the parts $1800, complete axle $1600. Both quotes from the dealer. Went with the axle. They had it in under a week. Twisted the pinion clean in two.

Rick

So let me understand this correctly? You replaced the MCV pump. Then you worked on the clutch valve. Could not find the check valve assembly. Plus how many other things you tried and changed. Posted on here many times. Had many guys respond to you.

Now you tell us that the hydraulic filter was changed two months ago with maybe 60 hours of usage on it??? So you do not do the one thing that costs less then $25??? Why the he!! NOT!!!!

All of the issues you where/are having can be caused by a plugged up hydraulic filter. Should it have plugged with this few hours?? NO but your hydraulic system is sick so it could be carrying metal from several places. The filter is doing its job in trying to catch all of them before you blowing the filing into everything on the tractor. I am willing to bet that your whole system now will start to cause even more problems because it has filings spread throughout the whole system.

I have seen filter get plugged in MINUTES from junk in the system. A IH 1566 is NOT an old "M" that you can abuse with junk/dirt/wrong oil in the hydraulics and not have it cost your big money.

If you are going to keep this tractor long term than you need to completely go through he whole hydraulic system and clean/flush out the junk that is now spread through it all.

I get this all of the time with guys o the JD tractors with bad brake pads. If they stop and fix the brakes the first time the filter plugs they usually have few other issues. If they keep running the tractor and plugging filters they usually ruin a bunch of things in the hydraulic system.

You have something in the gear train or hydraulic system failing. It is spreading junk/shavings in the hydraulic oil. So if you are going to keep using it then keep the filters changed when they plug. That maybe as little a few hours as things get worse.

The beauty of hind site.....When my problems began I had 6 hours on the hydraulic filter...To me - that is Brand NEW...not even one day of work...Hell it takes me 2hrs to drive to get one...

I don't know if that was problem right off...but this all happened within 4 hrs of my wheel wedges failing, and starter failing...throw in hydraulic funny's and you can think real different real quick.

But yea - you could be right...

My only other tractor is a JD - I change its filter once every two years and put about 100hrs on it per year and never had it plug...

Sorry fellas...didn't grow up around this stuff.

T

Yea - who really knows - it was black and stringy...You have a good idea to keep it - I should do that.

But - just had my JD cracked open and black sludge found throughout - the guy looked everywhere - was most suspicious of brakes and could not find the source...didn't want to break my bank on lookin...all my tractors are used so who knows what the prev owners did or didn't do.

He washedout all the sludge and put it back together - 6100.00 worth of work - rebuilding clutch, forward clutch cyl, reverser, and front pump...but we knew to for over a year we had to split it for a problem....

He had to double split it to repair the clutch lever - JD put in a spring pin and damaged the lever and the spring pin evenutually broke - sometimes going to the dealer you don't get the right parts or the best labor...

Tom if you are going to keep this tractor then you should flush out the hydraulic system as best as you can. Let it set for a few days and drain all the oil out. Then take a pump up hand sprayer. Fill it with Kerosene. Go down through the filler cap and spray all the directions you can. I also have a small copper tube that will fit on the end of mine that allows me to reach up in through th drain plug hole and flush things out. Just try to get all the sluge that you can out of it.

Then if the oil you drained out is new then you need to strain it before you put it back in. I have a large funnel that I lay a tee shirt doubled layer over the top. Then I pour the oil through that slowly. That will filter the oil pretty good.

Then when you are at where you buy your filters buy several of them. A buddy of mine ran IH tractors for years. He always bought them by the case. He had a pressure gauge permanently plumbed into the control value that read the pressure at the warning light port. He would just watch that pressure when hot and at an idle. When it got lower than he liked he would change the filter. His big tractor was a IH 1466. When he was working it hard he would change the filter in it twice a week. We where finding stuff in the old filters but never could trace them to the source. He ran the tractor for twenty years that way. It Never failed but when it was pulled real hard it would catch things in the hydraulic filter.

If the tractor was mine I would get everything working the best you can and trade/sell it. I have the feeling that it has been abused in the past. The IH 1566s where usually guys "big" tractor so they usually got turned up and ran harder than the smaller ones. Plus I hated the three range speeds. Grand Dad bought a IH 1466 new and we still have it. I like it much better than the IH 1566 we tried out at the time. The IH 1466 has been a better buy.

What about those two bottom plates - just forward of the forward most hydraulic drain plug?

They are leaking pretty good - was thinking once I'm done of pulling those off and replacing the gaskets - that might also give me a chance to see up in there...and to flush better...

But I don't know what under there looks like - I don't know if removing that plate will show me anything.

T

My CNH dealer tells me to use their Hytran because it has an additive to prevent the brakes from disintegrating.