Mowing question

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Using a narrow front tractor and a sickle bar mower is there a way to make square corners without stopping and lifting the bar? Seems like I heard about doing this. This my first NF tractor.
 
Have used a 9 footer on both the SMTA NF PS and the SH, WF, Armstrong.
Can be done with either, wait until the front edge of the rear tire is at the corner thaen turn as quickly as you can and watch the Front tire to get it the right distance from the swath as fast as you can.
You might leave a little "goatee" but when done make a pass diagonal and clip them all.
 
Did it all the time as a kid using a JD 50 narrow front and a pull type sickle mower.
All we did is run to near the end, turn the steering wheel and toe the right brake.
I don't remember the model of the mower, but it was a JD pitman arm type so
we didn't like to lift it much while running.
We ran it like that for years and never bound the PTO shaft, but I would be watching for that.
 
Yep I do it all the time but you have to gauge when to turn and do so shapely and if the brake in that side works it makes it even easier to do. That is one reason I built my Farmall BA because it has the B trike front and the A rear end and I can do an almost square turn every time I go around the field. It is also explained in the sickle mower manual I have for the sickle mow for my A/C C
 
Yes, been mowing like this all my life. I am assuming you have a rear mounted semi-mount mower or a center mounted mower. Not sure about how to do it with a trailer type mower. When you approach the corner and the rear wheels of the tractor are just past the standing hay lock up the R.H.brake, turn sharply to the right, leaving the cutter bar on the ground. It will drag the mown hay out of the way so it won't plug up when the tractor is lined up after the corner. Then just straighten out and keep going. Try it a few times in a lower gear until you get it down pat.
Hope this helps. Easy to do, hard to explain.
 
Live power helps too. Used a semi mount on an Oliver 66,just came up,rode the clutch a little,hit the right brake and came right around.
 
Used to do it with a New Idea 30A and a Farmall H. I know that it can be done without using the brakes 'cause out H didn't have 'em most of the time. IIRC it starts with having everything set up so the edge of the mower is cutting in line with the edge or your rear tire and horsing the tractor around the corner keeping the wheel right at the edge of the uncut hay. If I used the Super M or JD A to mow the corners were usually a bit ragged, that's probably more skill and force horsing around the bigger tractor without Power steering. Yes there is a reason the old timers kept smaller tractors like a Farmall A, B, C or a John Deere H, M, MT or Allis B or such they were a lot more nimble to do lighter work like mowing and raking.
 
I have learned to do it with a Farmall H and a 9' haybine, it is a little tough at first but once you get the hang of it it's pretty easy. I am not able to turn much more than 90 degrees neatly, though.
Zach
 
I did with a Farmall "B" and NH pull type sickle mower. I had also made hydraulic system using a Char-Lynn PTO pump and a roller chain from the belt pulley. This was a sweet combinstion.
 
Thanks for the info and all the quick replies. It's JD B and semi-mounted mower with castor wheel. It was my deceased friend's tractor. His sister was thinking about scrapping so I bought it from her. She found him dead on his kithen floor a year ago, just before his 76 birthday. We started college together in 1953.
 
Did it with a H Farmall and 27v mower also a no. 8 jd mower when I was in grade school in the 50's. Helps to have a steering knob and good breaks.
 
I'd say it's easier with a NF- likely able to turn shorter than a WF. You need to experiment a bit- turn spot is not the same for a belly mount vs rear mount vs trailing mower. Give it a hard right and watch for the results, you'll get the hang of it shortly.
 
We use <a href="http://youtu.be/BYxv_HsWGHg">"Vernon" our 56 Model 70 with power steering and a JD 350 sickle mower</a> to cut hay.

The power steering makes it much easier to turn especially with a steering wheel knob.

A good right brake is also very important in making your turn.

Practice using second gear on your Model B with the #5 sickle mower.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa5/jameslloydhowell/John%20Deere%20Equipment/43B/?action=view¤t=IMG_0326.jpg" target="_blank">
IMG_0326.jpg" width="650" border="0" alt="Photobucket
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You might disengage the hand clutch to slow down before making your turn, press the right brake, and turn the steering wheel.

Once you get accustomed to making turns, you can use third gear and keep the hand clutch engaged.

Before long you'll be <a href="http://youtu.be/Mnc36e52Njc">able to do it with one hand tied behind your back</a> or maybe holding a video camera.
 
Made a lot of 90 degree corners and had to do a good job by dads standards when I was home. Had a WD Allis and a Co-op mower. Think we had the only one in the county, but it was a good mower.
 
You can just hit the right brake and spin the tractor on the right tire.

Personally - I gave up on trying to make pretty corners. Now I go to the middle of the field, do three or so passes back and forth with messy ends - then just mow the entire field from the middle outwards. One big oval. Hit the leftover corners when you're done.

I find it MUCH easier than going from the outside in and worrying about corners, especially on an odd shaped field.
 

Your "B" could make other tractors with power steering look stupid when it comes to making quick turns..!!
Not many power steering systems will turn fast enough to make those square corners, without clutching to slow down..

Ron
 
With a little practice, it is pretty easy to do with a rear mounted mower.
My wife"s grandfather did it all the time with a 2N Ford with a rear mounted Dearborn mower and my Dad also did it with his NF WD Allis and a rear mounted New Idea mower. That N.I. mower was a wonderful mower by the way.
Many people will not believe this, but years ago, a local farmer had a D-17 Allis (WF) with a side-mounted mower and he could cut corners without stopping or leaving any hay standing.
He would pull the power director in low, step on the brake and spin the steering wheel just at the right moment. He had lots of practice and of course the D-17 has P.S. which makes quick turns a breeze.
I have a side mounted mower on my WD-45 WF) but with out the high/low power director or P.S., there"s no way I could ever do that!
 
NF in general turn quite sharp.

I do it all the time with a JD A and the Hesston 1120 9' moco (aka haybine). I do not run a hydraulic cylinder on the ole A and instead use a manual ratchet which I move twice - once when I enter the field to lower it and once when I exit the field to raise to transport. Never touch that admittingly inconvenient manual ratchet while cutting. I simply follow the mowing pattern listed in all the really old sickle mower manuals (around and around the field, working your way towards the center). With no easy way for me to raise the cutterbar it is imperative that I never try to cut already been cut hay with the sickle as it will plug instantly. The really old sickle mowers did not have an easey way to raise cutter bar either and that is why the book recommendation is to go round and round towards center so you never have to cross already been cut grass. (somewhat newer sickles can often easiley raise the bar to allow crossing already been cut grass so less of issue in picking your mowing pattern)

If your tractor does not have live PTO then clutching is usually not a good option and you learn how to make the turn properly after a round or two. I rarely if ever use the brake with the haybine since it has such a long tongue. With the long tongue the tractor can make a wide bannanna shaped turn while the moco (or haybine) pretty much turns sharp in its tracks However. I can see where using the brake would be required on a short tongued trailer sickle or especially a mounted sickle. As stated by others, the technique will vary slightly depending on what implement is being used.
 

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