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O/T Ford 1 ton brakes(1965) Picture of it

O

old

Well-known Member
Location
Camdenton Missouri
Well this truck is old and ugly but has less then 81,000 miles on it.
a60079.jpg

a60080.jpg
 
Well unless I can find the parts I need for it with out spending an arm and leg it will probably never reach 100,000 in my life time since I only use it on the farm to haul hay and gravel for the drive way and the gravel comes right off the farm out of the creek I have. I checked with auto zone today and they say master cylinder is N.A.
 
Now that's a beautiful old truck. I have a 1965 IH 1-ton 4x4 myself, unrestored.

If you have leaky master cylinders and wheel cylinders, you can rebuild them or send them out to be rebuilt. Kits are still available. I've sent a bunch to Brake Specialties in Minneapolis to be rebuilt. They will bore them and install stainless sleeves during the rebuild, and they'll last a lot longer without leaks to worry about.
 
Get ya a brake hone amd some new cups. I just did the ones on my 65 f-600, and the same for the master cylinder. Old Fords never die, they just smell that way!
 
Good luck finding the rebuild kit locally. I just tried to find caliper overhaul kits for a 95 Ford F150 and my parts guy said that he can't get them. Might have to try on-line instead. Good luck. What tractor is in that pic?
 
(quoted from post at 16:22:38 01/24/12) Well unless I can find the parts I need for it with out spending an arm and leg it will probably never reach 100,000 in my life time since I only use it on the farm to haul hay and gravel for the drive way and the gravel comes right off the farm out of the creek I have. I checked with auto zone today and they say master cylinder is N.A.
Click to expand...

master cyl 50 bucks and wheel cylinders 15-20 (kits 2-4) bucks at Rockauto.com.... Is that a skeleton in the 2nd pic????
 
(quoted from post at 16:59:30 01/24/12) Good luck finding the rebuild kit locally. I just tried to find caliper overhaul kits for a 95 Ford F150 and my parts guy said that he can't get them. Might have to try on-line instead. Good luck. What tractor is in that pic?
Click to expand...

2 to 6 bucks at rockauto.....
 
(quoted from post at 17:24:03 01/24/12)
(quoted from post at 16:22:38 01/24/12) Well unless I can find the parts I need for it with out spending an arm and leg it will probably never reach 100,000 in my life time since I only use it on the farm to haul hay and gravel for the drive way and the gravel comes right off the farm out of the creek I have. I checked with auto zone today and they say master cylinder is N.A.
Click to expand...

master cyl 50 bucks and wheel cylinders 15-20 (kits 2-4) bucks at Rockauto.com.... Is that a skeleton in the 2nd pic????
Click to expand...

Haven't you ever seen a Missouri cockroach scare crow? You have one of those in your yard and the roaches stay 100 ft away from it.
 
Kits may not be available, but I bet cups and caps are. A good parts house and measure the bore on the cylinders and sell you new cups.

Greg
 
We do all our own deer here so up that is what is left of a deer that was shot this year. Dogs just have not eaten it all yet but that is why I leave them around makes for good dog treats
 
Not dog food but cat food on the porch and no that is a deer or what is left after we do the cleaning and all. We proses all the deer that is shot on the place so the bones are left overs for the dogs and when you have 12 deer done it takes some time for the dogs to get it all gone
 
Well probably a few the one that shows up best is a A/C D-17 I and a friend pulled out of a fence line and I got it back up and running.
Do you still remember that Mit mighty max you looked at?? If so can you maybe tell me what some stuff is on or close to the fuel injection system?? I have unplugged a part and it now seems to run ok but not sure what I unplugged
 
I just looked at rock auto a master cylinder from them for this truck is $214 plus shipping and I thought $125 was way over the top but Rock auto is by far a lot higher
 
Old,
Not being to see it in person, I"ll give you my opinion.

A lot, and I mean a lot of master cylinders have the same bolt pattern. I have redone a bunch of brakes on older cars, converting old fruit jar styles to dual master cylinders, discs/drums, discs/discs etc.

You should be able to find another similar master cylinder that will fit on there. If you cannot, convert it to a dual m/c. They run around $20 new. Yes you will have to split the lines front and rear, but the union is usually right under the m/c on top of the frame rail.

Looks like your OEM is 1 1/4in bore, so you"ll want the same diameter for volume. In some cases I have made new rods due to the different distance from the brake pedal to the center of the m/c.

I googled an oem, and your right $140 for a rebuilt. That is a pretty steep price for a rebuild.

Rick
 
Only if it is the correct one. From the Rock auto site I have found it could have had one of 4 plus master cylinders and none will work/fit in the same place as the others. This one has power brakes and a single type master
 
Yep been looking at some way to go with the dual type M/C but then have to split the lines and add a proportioning valve to the system. Plus I will still need to do something with the one wheel cylinder that I know leaks. Yep hard to know what a person has unless you can look at it in person and even then it can be a crap shoot
 
My vet showed me his $500,000 house he refers to as his "Dogbone" House. Built with money from just surgeries on dogs with bone fragments somewhere in their system.
 
Big fan of '61-'66 Ford trucks, just like that body style, I have a '64 F-600 still road worthy with ag plates on it. Most of these around here are long gone, I wonder if from what you said being a fleet truck, if they were exclusive on parts relative to the purchase order by the fleet, like U-haul trucks were, I believe those were like that, they were different than what was on the lot. A lot of those were bought up and used by the private sector, I wonder how they dealt with the parts aspect of this.
 
Well what I do know so far is that I can not find the parts for it with out spending a lot of $$ Cheapest so far I have found is in the $125 ball park and to me that is a crazy number for a simple master cylinder. I also have a Ford Super duty tandem axle truck out back but of course the brake master on it is not the same
 
Once we get some sun shine I will try to get a picture. This stupid little truck has that EFI muti and has a part forward on it which from what I can tell from pictures at O'Reilly's is the throttle position sensor which is not what I unplugged. Then toward sthe back close to the throttle cable it has 2 more plugs and the small 2 wire plug is what I pulled and it now seems to run ok. Since the boy blew the transmission in the GMC S-15 Jimmy I am trying to get something else up and running so he has more then just a motorcycle to get around with if he finds a job
 
My dad payed $1500 for it years ago. It was owned by the state conservation dept and he got it when they listed truck like that at around 60,000 miles. My dad was extra ruff on it and would haul 7000lbs of gravel in it which was a tad bit over loaded. He blew the rear end doing that so I had to replace it years ago
 
Does your truck have the vacumn assist canister sitting down on frame? if so ive seen guys take a later model power brake booster , and bolt it to firewall.I think i would try to check online for a kit or maybe even just the cups for it.ive got a box full of misc sizes around here somewhere if i could find them.Are you positive master cyl is bad? you do know you have to bleed it right? if one wheel cyl is leaking and it ran out of fluid it wont pump a lick without bleeding the master cyl first!.
 
This master has the vacuum booster behind the master and NO place on the master to bleed it. As for a rebuild kit I have yet to find one that is the correct one
 
Ok let me know. Some sensors, like MAP, basically a vacuum sensor reader for the pcm, will,when unplugged, cause the pcm to default to a prewritten program. This means if the part is defective it will run better. I'm not saying tis is a defective part, but possible. Gerard
 
A lot of them dont have bleeders,in fact most dont,but you still have to bleed them.Take the lines loose on your master cyl,hold your fingers over the holes where the lines go,and have a helper push brakes.It should blow out fluid,then instead of drawing air back into cyl draw fluid from resivoir.Pumping it slowly two or three times while holding finger over line connections should do it.If you dont have a helper,you can remove master cyl and use a screwdriver to push piston while holding fingers over line holes.Basically what happens is if you dont bleed it,is when piston goes forward it pushes air down line,but when it comes back when you let foot off brake it simply sucks air back into master cyl instead of pulling fluid through the tiny orifice in resivoir.my old 68 was really a pain if you let it run out of brake fluid.Another thing that can happen to one over time is the fluid will turn to like a stiff jello.Thats the way my 55 chevy was.I like to never got the brakes working correctly on it.had to clean out every cyl and line on it. .
 
Ya sort of like that mass air flow sensor and when I replaced it, it did not help it one bit so I took it back. If the sun will come out I'll get a picture I hope
 
Ah your talking about what is called bench bleeding then Yep I have the little plastic screw in part that has a hose so as to do as your talking about Done it many times. But since this thing leaks so bad right now nothing I do with out new parts is worthless
 
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