cannot take hydraulic cylinder appart

Jackeboy · Jan 19, 2012

I am trying to replace a leaking seal on my log splitter cylinder. I removed the retaining band from the end and have tried several different ways to pull the rod out. It seems to hit a stop point and won"t budge. I cannot find a stop screw or any other clips. HELP!!!!

Case Nutty 1660 · Jan 19, 2012

I have had good luck by tapping the gland down in the bore past the ring grove then emery/sand ( if you have a air die grinder they work well for this) the ridge they will get from the pressure pushing on the gland lock ring, then use the rod like a slide hammer to "knock" the gland out, you have to have both hoses un hooked to do this and she will squirt out some oil when you slide the rod back and forth hope this helps

IaGary · Jan 19, 2012

Did you slide the ram out hard and quick to use it as a battering ram to pop the head gland out?

If you did and it still did not move pull the ram out all the way to the end and get me a picture thru the pipe fitting or look yourself. See if you see a wire snap ring on the piston. If the wire is there spin the piston till you see the end on the wire. Get a screw driver under the end of the wire then spin the piston till the wire pops off the piston. This normally used on one way cylinders but you never know.

Gary

Anonymous-0 · Jan 19, 2012

I have the same cylinder on a splitter and resealed mine last year , use a brass punch or something suitable to drive the aluminum plug back into the cylinder bore . then inspect the cylinder to make sure that there is not a burr in the snap ring groove ,and it also may have rust in there , you can pull on the rod using it like a slide hammer against the plug . also driving the plug inward will loosen it.

Allan in NE · Jan 19, 2012

Look around the outer edge of the cylinder. Sometimes, there is a tiny set-screw in place as a safety stop in case that ring pops out.

Allan

Russ from MN · Jan 19, 2012

We took apart a cylinder on a JD backhoe outrigger once and I think they said to leave it hooked up and use the oil pressure to push it out. Now if you have all the oil out of it you need to fill it and bleed all the air out so it doesn't pop, it could be violent! Put a big clean bucket under the gland end as all the oil will dump out when it pushes out. As others have said if you can drive it in first and clean the snap ring area with emery cloth that would be good.

Big M · Jan 19, 2012

Most cylinders of this type have TWO retaining rings. The one on the outside you have taken off. Drive the gland back into the bore carefully with a brass rod being care full not to damage the gland and look for a round wire ring. It should have a gap in the ring and pry it out with a small screw driver. If there is no lip in the wire ring groove it should come out using the piston and shaft like a slap hammer. If there is a rolled lip on the ring groove, remove it with a Dremmel as mentioned on other replies. Be carefull not to touch the chrome shaft with the grinder.
Not the hardest cylinders to work on, but close.

tomturkey · Jan 19, 2012

I had the same problem on a cylinder I resealed and o-ringed. Theere was a nipple going in thru the threadlet where the hydraulic line connects and it was into the bore a minute amount, ram would'nt pass till I took it out. May not be your problem, just tryin to help. gobble

ihman73 · Jan 19, 2012

Big M has the right idea. I ran into the same thing when I rebuilt the bucket cylinders on our 148 JD loader. Remove the external snap ring, drive the end back into the barrel and there was a round wire ring in the barrel, remove and pop the end out with the ram.

greygoat · Jan 20, 2012

Sometimes, on a "Snap Ring Cylinder" the snap
ring works around somewhat, from pressure of the
piston up against it when extended at full stroke
This forms a "Ridge", much like a piston ridge on an engine cylinder bore. It doesn"t seem like
much, but it will prevent the piston from moving
past it. You can"t cut it out with a ridge reamer
like on a gas or diesel engine, because the rod
is in the way, so you have to grind it our with
a "Dremel" tool, or rotary grinder.

Jackeboy · Jan 26, 2012

It dosn't look like there is another snap ring inside. I pushed the end cap in as far as possible. When I try to pull the rod out very fast and hard to act like a hammer, it comes to a dead stop. The suggestion that one of the port nipples could be stopping the rod from comming out is possible. I will try taking it back apart, I had to reassemble to split some wood with the leak still there, its pretty cold in Jersey. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions! I will let you guys know when I figure it out.

jeepchkee2 · Jul 13, 2015

I know this is an old post, but I am having some of the same trouble. I am able to take the first snap ring off. I drive the end cap back in and it just keeps going in. I can see a ridge about a half inch in, but it is tapered toward the back. I think when I drive the cap in it is compressing the ring and it just slides into the tube. when I pull the shaft out it un-compresses and slides back into the notch and locks it into place again. Any Ideas on how to get the shaft out?

jeepchkee2 · Jul 13, 2015

after some searching I found my answer, the rebuild kit comes with a plastic ring to fill in the tapered notch, thus keeping the ring compressed so the whole shaft can be pulled out.

cannot take hydraulic cylinder appart

Jackeboy

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Case Nutty 1660

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IaGary

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Anonymous-0

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Allan in NE

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Russ from MN

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Big M

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tomturkey

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ihman73

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greygoat

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Jackeboy

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jeepchkee2

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jeepchkee2

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