priming an oil pump?

Too many fergies now. The poor last Allis CA has to go to someone who will love her. Don't need it anymore, hasn't run since spring. So, started right up, as usual, got it to civilization for a clean up for market. No oil pressure! Engine sounded good, no leaks knocks, just no needle. So, blew out the lines, checked the guage, pump not plugged, just not pumping. My father wants to know what kind of pump, I don't even know- geared I suppose- he is 92, has good days and bad ones, sez ' if it was a house pump, you could prime it'. Humm. I got a oil can, squirted alot in there, seemed to be just falling into the sump. He is trying to get a closer look- I turn the key, and pull the ring.... like always, she fires right up- a good quart or 2 went right on his favorite 40 year old nylon parka. He was a few feet away, still too close. New oil, filter- start again... needle on the 'L' in NORMAL. Like it used to be. Now I am wondering about all the rebuilds that might get instantly ruined if the pump isn't primed, and all the dead tractors sitting in the weeds or going to scrap because the oil pump just, dried up... what do you guys think?

Think you should buy your Dad a new 40 year old nylon parka.lol.

When I worked at the salvage yard I had a bunch of modified distributor shafts for just that. Engine rebuild shop and junk yards keep a collection of modified distributor shafts to prime oil thru the lubricating system. You can either put it on a variable speed drill, or some have hand cranks.

Did you pump oil in oil line that goes to gauge? I take line apart on side of engine that goes back to pump and fill with squirt can.It should be primped. When I rebuild I fill gears with lithium gease or vasoline.

Allis B-C vane type pumps are direct driven off the camshaft and notorious for losing their prime. Just an everyday occurence for a tractor that hasn't run for months. Never had it happen to mine, even though it has set for some months on occasion.

Gosh, I wish you guys gave me all these ideas last night. I wouldn't have to find my father a new coat. I always 'assumed' oil pumps just did their thing without a prime, I can see that assembly lube would act like a prime-plug? vacuum?

Rusted, the only place I know of with old stock parkas this vintage is discount stores in northern Alberta. Lyle is loooking for one in his size. They are only good for 10 below, so they are 'spring and fall fashion' up there...

"I always 'assumed' oil pumps just did their thing without a prime"

For everyday use they do. There are a couple occasions when priming is a good idea, however. When you shut off your engine, it merely stops pumping. The entire system doesn't drain. Oil is still in most of the parts, merely without pressure. After you rebuild an engine there is no iol anywhere in the system. Some people coat everything with something like STP to lubricate it for that short period that no oil is in the system. Often when I worked in the salvage yard, we would take an engine that had been upside down or such for a really long time. On many engines, we can remove the distributor and insert a modified shaft from another distributor and turn the pump to circulate oil thruough out the engine. Now really big engines used on stationary plants, Ships etc. have a detached LOP that is started before the engine, so when the engine starts it has oil pressure already.

If an oil pump looses prime one of 3 things are going on. Cheap or bad filter, line not sealed or the pump is about shot.

Assembly lube is used to lube bearings until oil pressure comes up on a rebuild. Some type of grease on the pump gears helps the pump prime on startup after a rebuild. But filters have a built in back flow valve so the pump will not loose prime. Case of you get what you pay for. Cheap filters have a history of bad features like the back flow valve and by pass valves. Yes once a filter is plugged the system bypasses the filter.....about 8-10 hours for a good filter and as little as an hour with a cheap one. If the filter plugs in say 1 hour and there is no bypass then you run the bearings out of oil and destroy the engine.

Rick

Renmove that oil by rubbing dishwashing liquid into it until you feel consistencey change,[oil coming out] then wash in cold water.A little effort will save a few dollars.

I'm a retired locomotive mechanic. General Motors
(Electro-Motive Division) locomotives have a
"Prime pump. It's about a 3 horse electric motor.
It turns on when the "Start" switch is activated.
The V16 engine won't turn over until the lube oil
system is primed.

They are a vane pump. They will not catch a prime on there own. Easy way to prime is to remove the filter, fill the center tube with oil.
I like to put a hose on it long enough to put the oil back into the fill tube on top. I can see the oil and it makes less mess. The hose is not needed though. Just fill the oil lines thru the stand tube in the filter and it will catch prime.

You guys have answered the question with gold stars! For one thing, the next one I rebuild, it will certainly have oil creamed in every line I see, and analize that pump with a mirco scope... this is the first one- on a good engine- I ever had such an issue with. The oil had months to disappear, and it did. And might happen again in future I'm sure. And no harm done- oh BTW Bendee, the parka was salvaged, good as new, already dry and back on his back as good as n.... a 40 year old nylon coat can be...