tire ballast?? Last time, I promise....

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
OK Folks,

Get my new tires put on Thursday. Loading them with calcium chloride (??) will run an extra 200 bucks and give me 750 pounds (375 per side).
Guy said it would be better than a weight hanging on the back and would grip better but would make stopping harder. Says the tires will grip the grass and handle the slime I have to deal with better than a weight off the 3PH... ???? is (hopefully someone that has both will chime in) is the extra expense justified (gonna make that nmuch of a difference in traction)? Plus side I guess is that I wouldn't have to waste time hooking/unhooking a weight........ Will loading them be a problem when I need to use tire chains and run on pavement?

Thanks again...

Dave
 
If you have tire slip and loaded tires, the links in the chain tend to snap. I broke several going over curbs here in town and others over rocks when the chain catches.
 
I have a 3-point weight... think I've used it
once. Gets in the way, have to take it off...
often have a 3-point bale fork on the loader
tractor, so that (with a bale) becomes my
counterweight...AND CaCl.
All my tractors except the biggest one (which is
FWA and has lots of cast iron weights) have fluid;
wouldn't be without it. Can't say it makes
stopping harder, beyond the addeed
weight/momentum. I try to avoid the hassle of tire
chains, but you can run chains on fluid filled
tires. Well worth the cost, IMHO.
 
Usually, farmers put calcium chloride solution in their tires because it's the CHEAPEST way to add weight... I'm surprised that you feel it's the "expensive" way to add weight.

One thing calcuim fluid does do is put the weight right at the tire treads. It seems that would be more effective than a wheel weight or barrel of rocks on the 3pt hitch, because there is no air cushion between the weight and the tread.

The weight is also lower to the ground and does help lower the center of gravity on the tractor a bit, makes it less prone to tipping in questionable situations.
 
I fill my tires exclusively with Jack Daniels.
Doesn't freeze. Adds weight. Doesn't rot the rims.
And if you're broke down in the middle of the field it gives you something to sip on while you wait for help.
 
I did not read the previous posts about tire ballast but I will tell you that calcium chloride solution in tires is a very bad idea. My son-in-law graduated from Iowa State with an engineering degree and he said that they have proved that cast iron weights are better in all circumstances. Calcium chloride reduces tire (and tube) life, ruins rims, and makes maintenance more difficult. It also makes repairs expensive. If you can find any way at all to put weights on your tractor forget the calcium chloride. If anyone tell you that fluid in tires ( loaded tires) is just as good as iron weights they don't know what they are talking about.
 

Unlike Red Pete's son in law, I am not an engineer but I have used both cast iron weights and loaded tires and the loaded tires were a lot better for me. The loaded tires have the weight is right were you need it and lowers the center of gravity which is even more important when using a loader. It can complicate servicing the tires but so do wheel weights. I have never used chains on my tractor.
 
Dave sure would,n want to get in the argument as it comes up here quite offten but here is the statement it is ACCEPED practice by most us farm tractor dealers to add fluid to the tire as ballast. We sell about 300 tractors a year or so and 85%+ or more choose methanol/water mix. Tire holds the ground better and the weight does more good as low to the ground as you can get it. Only problem is do not overfill. Top of the top edge of the rim or about 75/80 % full. Have to leave room for some air for ride purposes.
 
We had loaded tires on a MF 135 and used it with chains every winter and durng mud season. Never noticed that the loaded tires caused any problems with the chains.
 
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heres the skinny on weighted tires and why folks generally prefer them. tractor weights bolted to wheels and things add actuall weight on axle bearings and things,this causes theoretically more wear on tractor.weighted tires however doesnt.it adds weight on the ground,but wear on actual tractor is not substantially increased.since its more of a rolling weight ,you get the advantage of weight without the drawbacks. where regular weights come in handy is that you can use them when needed then remove them.calcium cloride is just about a thing of the past anymore,too many better options that wont hurt your rims or the environment near as much.Im really surprised you can still get it myself,its basically nothing more than salt water. how many gallons are you looking at for your tires? lots of times you can find windshield washer fluid on sale and it may be cheaper.
 
Hi Ive run fluid in all my tractors for years. I have used chains and had no problems, and I might add they are all 4x4,3 also had FEL and never a problem. As far as traction it definetly helps, center of gravity increased and brakeing is better. the machine is heavier. IMO i dont think you will go wrong with fluid. Also i might add i have driven on pavement with and without chains on all 4 tires no problems. the front tires are loaded also never a problem for me and I like most faremers USE my tractors. just my .02cts. have a good one
 
dave. i run 5lb/gallon mix calcium chloride in most all my tractors. some guys like it, others hate it. when loading, install new tubes. if you get a leak, fix it right away. it is about the least expensive way to maximize the amount of added ballast. i plow snow with an h with loaded tires, one set of wheel weights and a set of road grader chains on it. never had a problem, never broke a chain.
 
Well, I guess we don't know any better, but we run cc in all of our tractors and wouldn't be without it.

Unfortunately it is corrosive, but with a minimum of observational skills you will have NO problems.

Our '51 DC CASE has had CC since day one and its still got one original rim, (replaced the other one after PROLONGED neglect of a slow leak).

We also run chains in winter....Serious traction!


Glenn F.
 
The only problem with CaCl is that it will destroy the wheels in short order IF you get a leak. If they don't leak, never a problem until you go to change a tire. Then you have more work to do...
I'm guessing that the tire man either hasa good markup on the CaCl or he needs work now... or wants it in the future.
There is no advantage to having 100# of liquid weight in the tire VS 100 # of cast weight on the wheels. Weight is weight.

Rod
 
dave2, As others have said wt is wt makes no difference as to liquid or cast. BUT....
Where the difference comes in is are you tube or tubeless the CaCl will work on the steel of the wheel Even if it is in a tube when you have a flat it will get all over the place. and cause rust!!!
For Me is is purely a matter of less hassle and expense when you have to call the tire people you use. When they ask if there is fluid in the tire? that fact will add to the expense of getting a flat fixed!!! Cast all the way!!!!!
Later,
John A.
 
weather aint too bad around here so i run two gallons antifreeze plus filled to the gill with water per tire and two sets of weights on the rear of my loader H
 
Another thought.
Cast iron is harder to find and usually costs more than fluid.
But, you can resell your cast iron.
Try that with fluid. We had about 75 gallons in two nice plastic drums and I advertised it on CL for FREE for 6 months before I could get rid of it and had to give the drums away.
Cast, at least for the Fords sells well and quickly.
And fluid would give you a slightly lower center of gravity wouldn't it? If you are filling the tire only 75% full?
 
I know I will probably catch flack over this but I farmed 30 years in Tex & Az. farmed 2 sections of irrigated corn. I was running 4440 & 4640 J.D.'s when I retired.We did a lot of heavy pulling such as deep ripping ect.Had to change rear tires every 4 years or so.All of my neighbors and I did all of our own tire work. We all used 1 or 2 gallons of anti-freeze and water in the rear tires. We were at 4500 ft. altitude and I saw it 15 below 0 in 1979. Never any rust or other problems with anti-freeze. The only thing, you hace to dispose of solution properly to keep pets from it.
 
I've used both cc and weights, and have been switching to all weights as time passes. We can change ballasting as needed; I don't have to call the tire man every time I need to get work done; and we have learned how to do it ourselves for the most part. It saves at least $100 every time I call the tire service just to change or repair one with cc, but nothing to repair it myself other than a few basic tools and a patch or new tube. And I've also found that the air-water valve doesn't start leaking after a few years. Weights cost a bit more to start with, but come out a whole lot cheaper in the long run.
 
I don't see how it can reduce tire and tube life because the average age of a tire is already 25+ years. The fluid does not cause wear in a tire and also will not cause overflexing the sidewall of the tire and that is what generaly ruins a tire. And have a tractor here that is a 1944 model that has calcium in since 1946 and just replaced one rim last year, other still good. The rim had to replace developed a flat approximatly 25 year ago and as it is the snow plowing tractor it had to be repaired in the middle of a blizard, 6" of snow on the ground plus drifts and about 15* with 20-30 MPH winds, so under those conditions it did not get washed up as should. And the fluid will keep all the tread equally on the ground for traction where the cast weights will put the pressure on the sidewalls and let the middle come up off the area it is supposed to be contacting. And the calcium is not poision like some of the other items they are pushing for weight. So if you would happen to get a leak developing a puddle and your dog decides to take a drink it will not kill him like some of the others will. If you fill the tires and take care of them and do not punture one they will last you longer than you will be working for uncle sam.
 
(quoted from post at 12:49:54 12/12/11) OK Folks,

Get my new tires put on Thursday. Loading them with calcium chloride (??) will run an extra 200 bucks and give me 750 pounds (375 per side).
Guy said it would be better than a weight hanging on the back and would grip better but would make stopping harder. Says the tires will grip the grass and handle the slime I have to deal with better than a weight off the 3PH... ???? is (hopefully someone that has both will chime in) is the extra expense justified (gonna make that nmuch of a difference in traction)? Plus side I guess is that I wouldn't have to waste time hooking/unhooking a weight........ Will loading them be a problem when I need to use tire chains and run on pavement?

Thanks again...

Dave

I still like the rimguard over the CC. More $$, but it is non toxic, and non corrosive. I had a Farmall H with CC. It sprung a leak, and it was a pain to work on. You just can't throw it away anymore, so you get charged a disposal fee, and you have to pay extra to get it worked on. And I had to buy a new rim. I am never using it again.
 
I drained out my CaCl when the rims rusted out. I fixed the rims,
bought new tubes and filled them with water/washer fluid mix. It
was about $50 more per tire. I will never go back to CaCl. It is
worth the extra to not have hazardous chemicals draining out and
also not rusting the rims.

I also plan to add cast iron.
 
CaCl is not considered a hazardous waste.
About 5 years before the I35W bridge collapsed MN DOT installed an automated deicing system that sprayed a solution of CaCl onto the bridge deck. I think in those days it still pretty much drained right into the Mississippi river.
I know they installed a similar deicing system onto the new bridge and they use CaCl as it doesn't wreck the concrete like sodium chloride. Perhaps now they drain it into the storm system which is half fast treated before it hits the river.
Up at my land the township contracts to spray chloride on the roads for dust control. I think they've found that chloride pays for itself as you do not have to grade the roads as often.
That might be potassium chloride or something though.
Tire fluid Not a hazardous waste tho.
 
Spook you say you just can't throw it away anymore. Well it is salt water and that is what the hiway dept puts on the road to cut ice. Our township sprays gravel roads to keep the dust down. When I quit farming and I took the CC out of the tractor that I kept I spread it on the gravel road.

Bob
 
I don,t know why we are so diffrent here but nowhere around here can you get anyone to even think of calciumchloride every new tractor dealer I talk to uses methanol water at a 1 to 2 part mix. No corrosion and easy to handel.
 
I stated incorrectly, I agree it is not classified as hazardous. It just kills the vegetation when it drains out.
 
Most folk would agree that in an ideal world. All
the ballast would be external cast iron weights
bolted to the rims. And the tires would be operated
dry.
In the real world where time, $$$ and room are
all limited. Ask 10 people and you will get 10
differing answers.
 
Yeah... truth be known, the tire will perform better dry with cast iron ballast.
I've got radials here that will pull as much dry with no ballast as they ever did loaded. I haven't had a busted tube since either. One good whoof of ether and they're mounted tubeless.

Rod
 
(quoted from post at 21:18:11 12/13/11) One good whoof of ether and they're mounted tubeless.

Rod

While you got the tractor propped up with a cinder block and a coffee can huh :shock:
 
Never had radials, only bias, last new tire they had not yet started building radials and I question if what he needs is avaible in a radial.
 
(quoted from post at 05:28:40 12/14/11) Never had radials, only bias, last new tire they had not yet started building radials and I question if what he needs is avaible in a radial.

They are but............... Normal continental's are 240 bucks each... A Michelin Radial is about 800 each... That'd have 2 tires loaded and the chains I bought costing more than the tractor did.....
 
:)
Propped up? It's lucky to see more than a floor jack around here. If I'm real safety concious... mabey a block of wood.

If you do have radials, and you do load them... make sure you keep the air pressure up on the upper side of what's recomended for the load. I wouldn't feel bad about putting 15-20 psi in them. Soft, loaded radials tend to shear valve stems. Without much forgiveness. It may not be a big factor to you with a smaller tractor and you're probably not working it too hard... just keep in mind that heavy drawbar loads and high wheel torque take out tubes. Particularly in a Michelin.

Rod
 

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