Hi Guys.
I just put on a cork oil pan gasket, I used silicone but when I tightened the bolts the gasket pushed out in place and even broke at one bolt, what did I do wrong, Thanks for any help.
Ken.
 
If you want to use silly-cone, use a THIN layer on the cork gasket, then just barely snug the bolts. 24 hours later, snug 'em a little more.
 
Sounds to me that it was tightened to tight.
I use a little silicone on the pan and nothing on the block except where the front and rear covers meet the block. I let that setup well before installing the pan. Same on the valve covers. That way they can be taken off and be put back on without a new gasket.

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Use Gascacinch. Use it on the pan side only, not the block side. A little Permatex #2 where gaskets meet, like the ends and sides on some oil pans. By keeping it off the block, then removing the pan is easy next time. A slight coating of a heavy, sticky grease on the block side is OK, too, if the other side has Gascacinch. Things come apart easily, don"t leak, and the gasket can be reused if necessary when making emergency repairs.

Nothing worse than an engine that is all glued together with silicone.

None of my cars "mark their territory" either.

Josh
 
2 problems. #1 you over tighten the pan bolts. And #2 when you use silicone you need to apply it set the gasket on and then let it sit 5-10 minutes before you install the part or the gasket will not stay in place as it should. But you main problem is you tighten it up way way to tight.
 
Sounds like you over tightened the bolts.

I use grease and lightly coat both sides and just snug them up till the grease squeezes out. This is a technique I was taught by an old mechanic from years ago. So far I have never had a leak.
 
Hi Guys.
I did coat both sides with silicone and I tightened the bolts to 10 foot pounds, is that too much ? Thanks again for all the help.
Ken.
 
10 FT/lbs yes way to much. The way I do it is this. I take a 3/8 drive ratchet and grip it in my weak hand right at the socket and tighten it only as tight as I can by turning it that way so that would be maybe 10-15 inch lbs maybe a tad bit more. When you see the gasket start to budge out STOP and I do mean budge any at all
 
Thas funny. The last two complete gasket sets I bought had a tube of black silicone in the kit.

Dumb manufactures, ya would think they knew better.
 
I do as BOB says.

Light coating over all of it,heavy at any intersections,then snug,then wait and come back another day to tighten. But you still have to watch that cork with no matter what you use or you will break it. This is about the best method for leak free pans and valve covers.

If it has to be put back into service right away don't use silicone. Use nothing or some weatherstrip adhesive.
 
For 1/4" or 5/16" bolts, I typically just use a nutdriver to snug them a bit initially.

Then, snug them a bit more a day later using an inch pounds torque wrench set yo an appropriate value for the fastener size.
 
The silicone sealer you got with your gasket set was to seal only the corners of the 4 piece intake and oil pan gaskets, and then only a little dab.
Putting a slippery sealer on both sides of a cork gasket is guarnteed to lube it enough so it will blow out by the bolt holes.
Glue the cork gasket to the part and let it dry be fore assembling, leave the other side dry so the gasket grips the part to prevent balooning or slipping.
 
If it is a stamped steel pan that is thin I always lay the pan flange on the workbench and take a ball peen hammer and lightly hit at each bolt hole. Most oil pan and valve covers get overtightened and this bends the flange at the bolt holes. With the bolt holes overstressed when you replace the pan or valve cover the flange doesn't seal between the bolts. I like to put #3 permatex or Coppercoat on the gasket and let them set just a little to stick them to the pan before installation then don't overtighten. As others have said if time is on your side just snug the bolts up and then give it a day and tighten them to the final setting.


Steven
 

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