Update on D19, it worked!!!

Goose

Well-known Member
Instead of using anything that would have inserted into the wheel, I simply got three 2 1/2" by 3/4 inch bolts, cleaned the threads in the hub, lubed the bolts, and threaded them into the hub. There was room enough between the hub and the wheel that I could put a piece of 1/4" bar stock between the bolts and the wheel, with the bolts bottoming against the bar stock.

I then took a 3', 3/4" drive breaking bar (home made) and put all the pressure on the bolts that I reasonably could. Nothing moved, so I figured I'd come back in 20 minutes and see if I could put more pressure on the bolts. While I was cranking on the bolts the second time the hub came loose.

Kinda flattened the ends of the bolts, but I can take an angle grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the ends off the bolts so I can back them out of the hub without damaging the threads in the hub. I'll gladly expend the three bolts to get the hub loose.

Also, our local Agco-Claas dealer no longer stocks AC parts, but the parts manager was real decent about ordering the axle seal and O ring I need. Said they'd be here on Tuesday.

Still have to slide the hub off the axle and probably use my loader to lift the wheel off, but the critical part's done.
a45424.jpg
 
Good Idea and good job Goose! Now made sure to clean the paint, and rust off the shaft before you slide the taper lock off. Use a file to take any burrs off too. Tap a wedge/screwdriver/chisel into the slot to expand it a bit.A bit.Not enought to crack it!
If you are doing the other wheel and can get your hands on some grade 8 bolts or B-7 all thread to use as your pushers, grind off the first thread or so and the ends will not moshroom.
 
Thankfully, at this point I have no reason to do the other side.

Thanks for the responses.
 
told yu it would come right off lol, I wood of gat rid of the paint and rust 1st but hey it's off, thanks fer letting us know.
 

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