should a farmall h have a skip?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
My farmalll h had a noticible skip when we first got it. we tryed everything to get the skip to go away but when we cleaned the carb it got alittle better. now it will only skip alittle when its ideling and when it really isnt under any load. once you put it under a load theskip goes away. should there be the skip or should we keep searching. but what for
 
(quoted from post at 06:49:58 06/22/11) My farmalll h had a noticible skip when we first got it. we tryed everything to get the skip to go away but when we cleaned the carb it got alittle better. now it will only skip alittle when its ideling and when it really isnt under any load. once you put it under a load theskip goes away. should there be the skip or should we keep searching. but what for

An intermittent "miss" or skip can be caused by several things. Improperly adjust valves, or leaky valves. Defective manifold gasket causing a vacuum leak. Worn distributor or incorrect ignition timing. Sometimes it's easier to just live with the problem than it is to totally eliminate it. It's not right, but it's really not going to hurt anything.
 
Often a mild miss/skip at idle and no load is caused by a slighty rich mix. Also if idle speed is just a little high the transfer port(s) are uncoverd and extra fuel is added which can cause the miss. The engine smooths out with a load or more RPM.
 
the valves are in good shape because the compression is at 120 in each cylinder. there is a new distributer cap and new wires.
 
You almost make it sound like the carb is loading up. Does the engine smoke any when this "skip" occurs? Could be it is time for a carb rebuild. I would also agree it could just be too rich of a mixture.
 
(quoted from post at 08:58:50 06/22/11) the valves are in good shape because the compression is at 120 in each cylinder. there is a new distributer cap and new wires.

A new cap and new wires will not compensate for a worn out distributor shaft and bushings or a worn out advance mechanism. Pull the cap and then try to rotate the rotor, and also try to move the rotor from side to side. If you have more than a little movement doing either, it might be time to do a rebuild of the distributor.
 
good compression does not always tell you your valves are good. only a leakdown tester will do that.
 
Just because the engine has good compression doesn't mean that it's not the valves. Stick a feeler gauge in there and make sure they're at .017.
 

Loose valve guides can allow a valve to NOT seal once in a while....might be that..or a calve sticking once in a while...
Squirt a full oil-can of oil into the carb as fast as it can take it while at medium throttle..
We used to do this at least twice a year, to prevent sticking valves..
it WILL smoke a bunch, to tell the neighbors to close their windows....!!!

Ron..

Ron..
 

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