trailer set-ups

bobs old iron

Well-known Member
i know there is always been a of threads about loading/hauling their trailers and hook-up questions,,i just wanted to share with other, that i responded with about the subject,,, i have a 5th wheel r-v sleeve in my g-neck to hook-up quick and easier..i load my tractor with heaviest over tandems to ride nice and smooth..check out my red-neck front wheel chocks,,,lol
a64549.jpg

a64550.jpg

a64551.jpg

a64552.jpg
 
I prefer chains and a binder on each one to those straps. I just don't trust them to hold a heavy tractor.
a64565.jpg
 
Nice setup but around here, That load would get you a hefty fine. With wheels, we have to use rated chains not straps.
 
Loading and setup looks great but the others are right, nylon straps have no place on something with wheels! You need 4 chains and binders; one on every corner.
 
i agree with all on chains,,,i don't go more than 5 miles to event i put tractors in...have chains if going looooong distance...[i know], i should know better than that..a funny thing happened, a trooper pulls up next to trailer at light, looks over, guess he likes at tractor, pulls up, then give me, thumbs up...
 
My dad has been hauling his 1967 Camaro for years with straps at all four corners. He has been stopped plenty of times to have the load and truck/trailer checked over the years and not once has anybody said it needed chains instead of straps.
 
I've hauled my tractors with straps for many years, never a problem with the law or anything else. I use big honkin' 4 inch straps with chain leads, one on each corner. I will never haul with a single strap or chain on each end. A chain looped through a drawbar and attached to the trailer with both ends is not the same as two chains!
a64620.jpg
 


In the pic's of the farmall with the straps streched out that long, that will keep it from rolling forward or backward sure won't hold much side to side chains hooked that way would not be any better.
 
not to be starting a whole lot of arguments, that"s why i have rear wheels inside wheel wells, so it won"t go side to side,,as i stated, i only go 5 miles to shows,,if you are talking about my pics
 
5 miles or 500-doesn't matter. It's the point of impact that matters and how it is tied down at that instant. A car can pull out in front of you a mile down the road and will it hold? The strap on the front wrapped around the jack only counts as one strap also.
 
Here in Western Kansas and Eastern Colorado Straps seem to be OK if rated properly.
I normally use 3 straps rated at 4ooolbs each for my 4500 lb Oliver
 

Bob I'm not positive that I can see it correctly, but it looks like your rear attach points are cross pieces of your self cleaning beaver tail. That would not be legal in the book that they gave me, which states that your chains/straps have to attached to a point designed for that purpose as in the pockets between the frame and rub rail. If someone panic stopped in front of you with no warning it is not likely that the 1 and 1/2 angle stock would hold.
 
I have to agree, Bob, that's not tied down very well at all. It will probably hold front-to-back, but the tractor will go skidding off the side in an instant.

The stake pockets along the sides are where you're supposed to anchor to.

Maybe I'm wrong too, but this is what I'd do:
1. Right front wheel to nearest stake pocket on LEFT rub rail at 45 degree angle to the front.
2. Left front wheel to nearest stake pocket on RIGHT rub rail at 45 degree angle to the front.
3. Right rear wheel to nearest stake pocket on LEFT rub rail at 45 degree angle to the rear.
4. Left rear wheel to nearest stake pocket on RIGHT rub rail at 45 degree angle to the rear.

That's how I see heavy equipment chained down, with the chains crossed over and pulling from the opposite side.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top