I have a 2005 Silverado 3500 bought used. It came with a brake controller already mounted. (Drawtite Activator II) I never gave it much thought but pulling a new gooseneck, trailer hubs get extremely hot even empty. I just thought it was a trailer issue. Over the weekend, a friend borrowed the trailer and hubs stayed cold. I connected a third brake light on my camper shell to the tail light bulb circuit and it stays on dim even with the truck shut off. Could it be the controller? Has anyone else experienced this? If so, what remedy?
- Thread starter 1970-1655
- Start date
Welding man
Well-known Member
- Location
- West Virginia
A new brake control costs a lot less than a complete set of trailer brakes. Buy yourself a new contoller or take it to someone that is experienced in troubleshooting the problem. The control works off a signal from the brake light switch, but unless the brake lights are staying on,on the truck I can't see how the 3rd brake light would affect it. You could be bleeding power off another wire inside the electrical plug.
rustyfarmall
Well-known Member
Yes, it most likely IS the controller. I've had 2 or 3 give me fits and do similar things as you describe. Throw it in the trash and get a new one.
don't toss the drawtight yet.
I have 2 of them.. and they are fine.
1 is on my yukon.
as soon as I hooked it up and hooke dup my trialer.. the brakes locked.
seems GM see's fit to have a lil non standard wireing in their 7 pin plug. power and brake power are swapped
my trailers were 6 pin, so I got a 7 to 6 adapter.. you could take it apart and swap the 2 wires that GM crossed. instructions with the adapter even told you how to do it.. so it's a COMMON issue!
none of my fords or dodges had to have that.
GO GM! so much for a 'standard'
soundguy
I have 2 of them.. and they are fine.
1 is on my yukon.
as soon as I hooked it up and hooke dup my trialer.. the brakes locked.
seems GM see's fit to have a lil non standard wireing in their 7 pin plug. power and brake power are swapped
my trailers were 6 pin, so I got a 7 to 6 adapter.. you could take it apart and swap the 2 wires that GM crossed. instructions with the adapter even told you how to do it.. so it's a COMMON issue!
none of my fords or dodges had to have that.
GO GM! so much for a 'standard'
soundguy
I own two GM trucks both with factory 7-pin plugs, and the trailer brake power is in the correct location.
The 1999-2007 GM trucks have a place to plug the brake controller directly into the factory wiring harness. It is in a junction block above your left foot on the firewall.
Between 2002 and 2003, GM changed the wiring in the brake controller plug. One wire was moved from one pin to another. You need to make sure that you have the correct connections for your year truck, or else the brake controller will not operate properly.
It is very easy to unplug the controller at this junction block to test. Unplug the controller. Does the third eye brake light go out?
The 1999-2007 GM trucks have a place to plug the brake controller directly into the factory wiring harness. It is in a junction block above your left foot on the firewall.
Between 2002 and 2003, GM changed the wiring in the brake controller plug. One wire was moved from one pin to another. You need to make sure that you have the correct connections for your year truck, or else the brake controller will not operate properly.
It is very easy to unplug the controller at this junction block to test. Unplug the controller. Does the third eye brake light go out?
I have a Tekonsha 7 way tester, part number 6552. I have been testing it on the plug at the bumper. That checks correct. Today, I tested the plug mounted in the bed and the 12 volt live is connected to the trailer brake pin. If it warms up a bit, I will rewire that plug and see if that makes a difference. If I need the trailer sooner, I will run the plug to the outlet at the bumper and try that.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
Thanks for all the suggestions.
They didn't get them all wrong. Both my Chevy trucks, with factory wiring, work just fine. My Dad's Chevy truck, also with factory wiring, works just fine. These trucks represent the 2000, 2002, and 2003 model years.
Must've been a cruel joke one of the assembly line guys was playing, screwing up the wiring on random trucks.
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