wooden deck preservation?

Ralph Bauer

Well-known Member
Just bought a tilt deck trailer (locally shop made) that has all the wooden decking rotted away. need to replace it. What's the most cost effective (pine, oak, else, treated, untreated, etc.) way to replace and treat the 2x??x96 boards? Trailer is 96" (outside of metal frame), boards run side to side with metal cross-members flush with floor every ~6ft.
Been told to use Thompson deck preserver, but also use used motor oil and brush that on instead...
Any and all feedback appreciated. (Metal decking not doable without additional cross framing). Thanks, Ralph.
 
If you've got the old oil use it. If you have to buy something you may as well get Thompson's or some linseed oil or some other water repellant like that.
 
I used to swear by Thompsons, but it depends what you are putting it on. Pine or yellow pine will suck it in but I found that on fir decking that it doesn't penetrate at all.
 
(quoted from post at 18:34:58 01/03/12) Just bought a tilt deck trailer (locally shop made) that has all the wooden decking rotted away. need to replace it. What's the most cost effective (pine, oak, else, treated, untreated, etc.) way to replace and treat the 2x??x96 boards? Trailer is 96" (outside of metal frame), boards run side to side with metal cross-members flush with floor every ~6ft.
Been told to use Thompson deck preserver, but also use used motor oil and brush that on instead...
Any and all feedback appreciated. (Metal decking not doable without additional cross framing). Thanks, Ralph.

My trailer is 10 years old. It sets outside all the time. I have been treating it with used motor oil at least once and sometimes twice per year. I pick a day in the hot summer and pour the oil on heavy enough that it takes a few days for it to completely soak in. The wood looks every bit as good today as it did when the trailer was brand new.
 
Whatever you do I think it's a good idea to treat the board BEFORE you install it.

Otherwise, there will be areas on the board covered up by the trailer framework that will not get treated. This will also be where the moisture gets trapped. Bad news.

The edges and underside will not get the full treatment either because it's not easy to get to them. Looks good on top but rots from underneath.
 
i'd get the old style pt boards, then paint liberally! with asphalt fence paint.

probably goog for over a decade that way...


soundguy
 
By marine grade pressure treated sheathing that"s treated to 2.5 lbs per CF.Southern Pine or Douglass fir--Douglas fir may have to be incised to get that retention. Rough sawn is generally cheaper and stronger than S4S lumber place decking with the sapwood up.
 
(quoted from post at 06:06:39 01/29/12) I sure hope all you guys that use Used oil don't live around me. I like my water clean.

Do you know that most commercial wood preservatives contain arsenic? Would you rather have arsenic getting into your ground water?
 
(quoted from post at 22:06:39 01/28/12) I sure hope all you guys that use Used oil don't live around me. I like my water clean.


Uh..... have you investigated how many MILLIONS of gallons of used engine oil are dripped on the roads every year?

The oil goes into the wood. Why would you even think it would contaminate the water you drink? Also, have you considered the alternative to not treating? Trees will have to be cut down every 2-3 years to replace the rotted boards vs every 25-30 years. Yes, oil soaked wood will last that long.
 

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