4500lb tractor + 2200lb trailer. 7k trailer or 10k?

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
I have a 4500 lb tractor and would like to buy a trailer, I was
thinking of 16-18ft equipment trailer it is NOT deck over and
the tractors I have will fit between fenders. Either trailer will
have brakes on both axles.

Do I want a 7k rated trailer or 10k rated trailer. A 7k trailer will
be in the upper limit of trailer or do I want a 10k trailer does not
weight much more but do I need it?

also what tows better a deck over trailer or an equipment trailer
with fenders.

I have a one ton truck but will be getting a newer 1/2 ton truck
in the near future.

Open to all suggestions, I am really not interested in a
gooseneck nor do i think its necessary.
 
I'd go with the 10k trailer. I had a 7k once and it was very sensitive getting the load "just right" whereas the 10k was much more forgiving. Besides, who knows when you'll drive past that 5500# tractor that you want to take home.
 
A year ago I had the same descision to make. The 7000# only saved about $500-$800 over the 10,000#. I bought the 10,000# , 20'er w/radials , spring loaded fold up ramps , cast iron adjustable hitch , 7,000# jack , LED lights , all 6" channel w/3" channel crossmembers , 6" channel tounge back to axles,4 brakes. Very nice trailer and glad I went 20'. Pulls like a dream.Stay away from the "angle iron" economy trailers and rectangular tubing is way over-kill and adds too much weight. This thing will haul a LOT! $3500 new. They wanted $2700 for a 7000# 16-18 footer. Personally I like the lower to the ground fendered trailers. They load easier and safer. If I went deck-over I would go goose-neck only. My fenders don't get in the way. One just has to use their head when loading. Got ta remember , too , ya ain't useing this thing to make a living with! I shopped a lot of makes and styles and prices. Load Trail is what I settled on. Nobody came close price-wise and quallity and workmanship was equal to any. Including PJ. Go with 10,000. Wouldn't it be nice knowing it is being "under-worked" as apposed to being maxed out??? I hauled a 6000# load of 8' logs last week on mine. Not even a moan out of it. Never thought I would ever be wanting to haul logs but glad I had the 20'. Lots of old farm machinery is just bulky as apposed to heavy. Never have enough room. Go at least 18'! 16' gets short in a hurry. Good luck hunting.
 
Instead of a 10,000 lb., price out a 12,000 lb. Better axles. Rubber torsion axles are much better than springs. No maintenace(for springs and mounts, etc.) and they're like having independant suspension. Rectangular tubing isn't overkill. It depends on the wall thickness and how the trailer is built. Tubing adds a lot more ridgity than channel iron. There's a reason that hot rodded cars have the frame boxed in like tubing.
 
Guess I don't understand why you don't want a gooseneck?

Buying a trailer is like building a garage. 'Taint all that long before the goofy thing is just too darned small.

Allan
 
Go bigger. You will not regret that.

As far as deckover or between fenders, that really depends on what you'd want to haul. If you'll never ever get another tractor, go with fenders. I have a deckover and need it, but when I load it always makes me a bit nervous.
 
10,000lb deck over.
I have no idea why so many drivers are proud of hauling more weight that what the rig is designed for.
10,000 will lean less on the corners and curves than the 7,000lb with the same load.
The deckover is the only way to haul. Trying to squeeze tires between wheel wells. Or attempting to open vehicle doors between wheel wells. Both are a fool's errand.

As for capacity limits on anything. Tires, electric motors, small engines, generators, cranes etc. Continuous operation at max rated load usually results in early equipment failure.
 
I recently bought an 18" PJ built lo profile gooseneck with the 6000 pound axles and I love it I had a jjn exact same trailer as I bought only not as heavy built and it was just flimsy this PJ has 8"" I beam neck. With 6"" channel side rails then has a piece of 4""x4"" angle all the way to the axle brakes on both axles and dual jacks and believe it or not it pull a lot easier than the light jjn trailer and and it just seems safer so play it safe buy a well built at least 10 k trailer you be more satisfied I do believe
 
I recently bought an 18" PJ built lo profile gooseneck with the 6000 pound axles and I love it I had a jjn exact same trailer as I bought only not as heavy built and it was just flimsy this PJ has 8"" I beam neck. With 6"" channel side rails then has a piece of 4""x4"" angle all the way to the axle brakes on both axles and dual jacks and believe it or not it pull a lot easier than the light jjn trailer and and it just seems safer so play it safe buy a well built at least 10 k trailer you be more satisfied I do believe
 
Why would you NOT want a gooseneck? Let's see:

1. more expensive
2. more complicated
3. must cut holes in truck bed which will inevitably lead to premature rust-through of the bed floor
4. have to remove the truck cap any time you want to haul anything
5. raises eyebrows with the DOT (he looks commercial, better pull 'em over)

Sure there are benefits but for the occasional hauler a gooseneck may not be practical for these and other reasons.
 
Check out New Alexander Tractor, they make either a hydralic tilt or crank tilit in 10k with extra wide and its a great trailer. I can't imagine not having mine. I had to liscene it for 8k because I pull with a suburan and PA says that the truck is too small for a 10k trailer.
 
I know a guy thats hauled a 4300 lb (4500 with driver) M Farmall puller for over 30 years on a 7000 lb car trailer...He pulls it with an older 1/2 ton IH pickup and has no problems...He doesnt get in a hurry.
 
lets see you get on to me for saying oh my goodness then you swear what a double standard course it would get lonely where you live ya know you being perfect and all
 
Say or print OMG and what do 99% of the population think you said ?
As for *ss ? That is a very common, non swearing name for a dim witted hooved animal with big ears.
 
(quoted from post at 18:32:10 06/15/11) I know a guy thats hauled a 4300 lb (4500 with driver) M Farmall puller for over 30 years on a 7000 lb car trailer...He pulls it with an older 1/2 ton IH pickup and has no problems...He doesnt get in a hurry.

Yeah, but everybody is in a hurry these days. Trying to be in a hurry, and towing with not-quite-adequate equipment is a recipe for disaster.

You could get away with not being in a hurry in the 1970's, and perhaps today in some of the more remote rural areas, but you can't get away with it most places these days. If you aren't keeping up with traffic, you're a traffic hazard.

Is a few hundred $$$ really worth risking life, limb, and equipment over?
 
check out the PJ buggy hauler. I have one and love it, 102" wide 10K 20' long, dovetail and drive over fenders, I wanted the best of a car hauler and something to use for moving a smaller tractor, getting lumber, seed, etc.
 
I have a 10k H&H heavy duty flatbed with fenders. Pulls easy with my 1/2 ton, loaded with Farmall H (5500lbs)or M (7000lbs). It has a nice low deck height.

Check out the link and the options available for this style trailer.
hdf1.jpg

H&H trailer
 
To some extent I agree with B-maniac: you aren't using the trailer extensively - you could probably get away with C channel-built trailer. Absolute minimum length is 18ft - if ever with a mounted implement you'll need 20ft fast. When shopping all over in '08, construction + price led me to Precision Trailers, and I don't regret it. Mine is 18ft (wish I had 20), 5200lb axles, retaining plate up front, 10000lb jack, box-beam, 2200lbs, $3600. I haul 2500 square bales per year, at 120 bales per load, down 225 miles of highway with it. Plus the tractors get floated to fields that are too far to drive. We easily have 24k miles on it. If I had a deckover I could float tractors with tires wider than 16.9 - that's my limitation. I wouldn't hesitate to put my maximum load of 8000lbs on that trailer.
I'd avoid angle-iron trailers - just too flimsy.
Jay
 
And what kind of stupid $ss comment is that...I've been around here for years and you seem to be the internet know it all..

I'll guarantee you the guy with the M Farmall kept everything in excellent shape..Hes a good mechanic and all his stuff is kept immaculate...

Does everyone need a semi to haul a small tractor..I go to lots of antique tractor pulls and shows and I often see 1/2 ton pickups pulling lighter tractors on car trailers..None of these guys have ever caused a wreck.

Many years ago I went all over the midwest with a C-10 Chevy pulling a 7K car trailer hauling 3000-4000 lb loads with no problems..

The worst wreck around here was a crew cab dually pulling a tandem axle gooseneck..He was running over 80 mph passing going up a hill and killed 2 people..
 
So if everyone else is running 80-90 mph we should all try
and keep up even while towing.

This is a rural area in fairly level farming country...The
roads are good with not tons of traffic..Theres no big
towns..Not all of us are in a hurry..When towing I often run
10 mph under to be safe..The faster you go the harder it
is to stop.

Lots of light antique pullers and show tractors are hauled
on 7K trailers pulled by 1/2 ton pickups...These guys are
careful and cause no problems.

I'll guarantee you the guy with the M kept everything in
great condition..He is much safer than someone running
70-80 mph in a crew cab dually pulling a fully loaded
tandem axle gooseneck..

If towing with barely adequate but legal equipment you do
the following.

You keep everything (tires-brakes-lights etc} in excellent
operating condition...You balance your load good with the
proper tongue weight.

You drive 5-10 mph under the speed limit and dont tail
gate...If traffic piles up behind you,you pull over and let
them by...Since this is level farm country I often go lesser
traveled roads.

You drive slow going thru towns as thats where most
problems happen..I've had kids in bicycles dart out in front
of me.

You pay attention and drive 1/4th mile ahead..Youve got
to remember that 30-40 years ago lots of us pulled home
made trailers that had no brakes...We had to drive careful..
 
Second time you have mentioned the Crew Cab dually as the problem. How could a truck with superior steering, higher load carrying capacity. Inherently more stable and having more/better brakes be at fault?
Sounds like jealousy from a 1/2 ton owner.
Tell me again how being careful compensates for equipment stressed to max? And how you can always avoid pushing equipment past the narrow safety margin you operate under?
 
So if everyone else is running 80-90 mph we should all try
and keep up even while towing.

80-90mph, oh sure. Over in the fast lane 70-75 max or the troupers have a field day writting tickets. Over in the right lane traffic is 60-70mph.


Stay in the right hand lane and move with traffic.

This is a rural area in fairly level farming country...The
roads are good with not tons of traffic..Theres no big
towns..Not all of us are in a hurry.When towing I often run
10 mph under to be safe.

Crashes happen when there is a disturbance in traffic flow, now when traffic is in steady state. Small town are loaded with stop signs, kids on bikes, corners, women in short shorts etc. Look at the stats, far more crashes per mile in small townsthan on interstate highways.

The faster you go the harder it
is to stop.

No suprise there, kenetic energy rises with the square of velocity. Doesn't matter 1/2 ton or dually.

Lots of light antique pullers and show tractors are hauled
on 7K trailers pulled by 1/2 ton pickups...These guys are
careful and cause no problems.

Half tons with 7000lb trailers are never in wrecks?

I'll guarantee you the guy with the M kept everything in
great condition..He is much safer than someone running
70-80 mph in a crew cab dually pulling a fully loaded
tandem axle gooseneck.

There you are hating the guy again with $$$ driving the dually crewcab. All other factors identical.I'll take my chances with the modestly loaded 10,000lb goose neck. Instead of the maxed out 1/2 ton and 7000lb trailer.

If towing with barely adequate but legal equipment you do
the following.

??? Should you not have all equipment in excellent confition be it the dually goose neck 10,000lb or the 1/2 ton & 7000lb trailer?

You keep everything (tires-brakes-lights etc} in excellent
operating condition...You balance your load good with the
proper tongue weight.

You drive 5-10 mph under the speed limit and dont tail
gate...If traffic piles up behind you,you pull over and let them by.

There you are again causing wrecks. By backing up traffic and disturbing flow. Causing other drivers to attempt passing. Pulling to the shoulder also causes a disruption in traffic flow. Drivers behind have to hit the brakes, swerve and try to look through dust from the shoulder. And b.t.w. how many roads have shoulders wide and firm enough to pull over on? Ever been in NY state around Lake Placid?

.Since this is level farm country I often go lesser
traveled roads.

You drive slow going thru towns as thats where most
problems happen..I've had kids in bicycles dart out in front
of me.

You pay attention and drive 1/4th mile ahead.

Always critical to safe driving be it on a bycycle to a semi truck or anything in between. To look ahead .

.Youve got
to remember that 30-40 years ago lots of us pulled home
made trailers that had no brakes...We had to drive careful.

Guess that makes cutting corners today ok? May as well throw out the kid's bike and motor cycle helmets, cut the seat belts out etc.

I remember wrecks 30-40 years ago where it was normal for people to be killed or crippled. Now in a similar wreck people push the vehicle door open and walk away.
 
(quoted from post at 05:03:15 06/17/11) So if everyone else is running 80-90 mph we should all try
and keep up even while towing.

No, but you can't be crawling along at 25MPH in 80-90MPH traffic, because your truck doesn't have enough power to go any faster, or the load is so unstable that you don't dare go any faster.

One guy's alleged "success" with a marginal setup does not guarantee the same results for everyone. Slightly different truck or trailer, different results. Slack off on the maintenance, different results. Another driver behind the wheel, different results. Move from the flat land to the hills, different results.

There are literally THOUSANDS of variables that happened to come together to ensure this guy's success, and a change in any of those could turn the situation from a quaint story about an old man and his truck into a tragic headline on page 1 of the local paper.

Again I ask, what purpose does it serve to skimp on equipment when the difference is only a few hundred $$$?
 
(quoted from post at 05:33:24 06/17/11) Second time you have mentioned the Crew Cab dually as the problem. How could a truck with superior steering, higher load carrying capacity. Inherently more stable and having more/better brakes be at fault?
Sounds like jealousy from a 1/2 ton owner.
Tell me again how being careful compensates for equipment stressed to max? And how you can always avoid pushing equipment past the narrow safety margin you operate under?

Are you kidding? He is telling you that the safest equipment in the world is still a deathtrap with an idiot behind the wheel.

I would rather take my chances against a guy that knew what he was ooing with a S-10 pulling a trailer, rather than an idiot with a proper sized truck.

I do have a crew cab dually diesel, and generally I am driving 60 mph on the interstate in a 70 mph zone. Not because my truck can't handle it, but my pocketbook can't. That 10mph is the difference between 8 mpg and 11 mpg.
 
A vehicle is only as good as its driver...A driver with a barely adequate tow vehicle thats knows his limits is far superior to an idiot with a more than adequate tow vehicle that doesnt know his limits..I see them running 80 mph all the time....Anything with electric brakes isnt going to stop that quickly.

For your information I haul a 6000 lb state level pulling tractor on a 14K gooseneck pulled by a crew cab dually..We just finished up a fresh engine for the puller this evening..I still only go 55-60 mph on a 4 lane thats not heavily traveled...The fuel mileage is better and I dont have to worry about getting it stopped quickly..

Once upon a time I didnt have the money and pulled bumper hitch trailers with 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton pickups...I was very careful and had absolutely no problems..I pulled a 7K car hauler and also a 20 ft 3 axle 10K trailer for 30 years with no problems..Never once did I have to lock them down..

This area has had several fatalities lately involving semis that werent paying attention to their driving..
 
None of us drive 25 mph...If the speed limit is 60 we run
50 mph and if its 70 we run 55-60 when towing..

In my area barely adequate but legal tow vehicles get
along just fine..Its fairly level and not heavily
populated..Most of the drivers are older
farmers,truckers,mechanics-etc that keep their stuff up to
snuff and know how to drive..They often only go to 5-6
pulls or shows per year and arent out there pounding the
hiway..

Todays new 1/2 ton pickups are far superior to the 3/4
tons of not that many years ago..My brothers new F-150
is huge compared to an older F-250..You dont have to
have a crew cab dually and a 14K gooseneck to haul an H
Farmall a few times a year..

As far as I know not a single person in my area has been
killed by someone using a 1/2 ton and a car trailer...Yes
there are tons of variables but it still boils down to the
guy behind the wheel and how he maintains his
equipment..

I like to look over the haulers and tow vehicles at shows
and pulls..Usually the most overloaded are the crew cab
duallys with huge tandem axle trailers...I've seen them at
tractor shows with 3 tractors on that had to weigh 18K or
more plus the trailer weighed 8K.
 
Well duh...........Do you think I was endorsing a
fool behind the wheel of a dually gooseneck
10,000lb? And finding fault with a cautious driver
in any vehicle?
 
Opinions are like A h's everybody has one. I started with a 16ft angle iron cheap trailer with no brakes. 30 yrs ago. The first time I hauled a narrow front tractor it bent the floor. Put about 500 lb of extra steel in it to make it safer. Next I bought a 18 ft car hauler with a 5 in frame. It tilts is good to haul low cars on. But not wide tractors and machinery. My brother-in-law still has it so I can borrow it. Now I have a 20 and 5 deck over goose neck with a 14000 gvw. Haul a 4500 lb JD and a golf cart to the pulls. It is a Corn-pro brand. I love it pulls so much better, and it also has torsion axles. Hope I never have to go back and I pull with a gasoline Super Duty Ford. I have hauled 12000 lb tractors for short distances. Vic
 
If you're absolutely sure that you will never haul anything over 4500 lbs. get the 7000 lb. trailer. It's rated for 7000 lbs., so that's what you can haul. It's not too light, or marginal. If you are going to put a lot of miles on it, you will want to go with a heavier trailer, to get the better wheel bearings and tires. Another thing to think about is lawsuits. Everyone wants to sue these days. If you haul something that exceeds the weight rating of your pickup or trailer and you get into an accident, it will be your fault, whether it really was or not.
 
you do realize a 7000lb trailer cannot 7000lbs? the 7000lbs is total weight of trailer and cargo.
 
(quoted from post at 20:04:59 06/17/11) Well duh...........Do you think I was endorsing a
fool behind the wheel of a dually gooseneck
10,000lb? And finding fault with a cautious driver
in any vehicle?

Yes I did think that. After all, you called the guy who hauled a 4500 lb tractor on a 7000 lb trailer with a 1/2 ton for 30 years an A**!

I typically haul a 5000 lb tractor and a 2 bottom plow on a 16' 12,000 lb bumper pull. The catch is I am pulling it on a 15" receiver extension because I have a 4000 lb, 9 1/2' camper in the box of the truck. Any names you want to call me?
 
That was funny. Yes it would be.

The truck is a crew cab dually. Across the scales, I have 8500 lbs on just the rear axle.
 
You haul stuff your way and we here in the midwest will haul stuff our way..We must have lots better roads and much less traffic than you do..

Going 10 mph under the speed limit causes no problems here..Its flat level farming country and people can pass most anytime they want to..I get 2-3 mpg better staying 10 under..Theres farm machinery on the roads going 20 mph all the time..

Only twice in the past 4-5 years have I had to pull over and let people by..I was over 100 miles from home in a very hilly area..I pulled over in small towns and let traffic by..I had tall loads and the wind was blowing 40 mph and I couldnt make any headways...This was with a crew cab dually and a 14K gooseneck..

My brothers new F-150 has a combined 16,000 towing capacity..It weighs around 6000 so that leaves him 10000 lbs for a trailer and the load..He wouldnt have any problems pulling a 4000 lb tractor a few times a year on a 7K car trailer..Its done all the time around here with no problems..For a few times a year you dont buy a 3/4 ton or dually with a 10K or 14K trailer..


I just got rid of a 7K car trailer that I used for over 20 years..All that was ever done to it was repace the floor once,pack the bearings,replace tires,and keep the lights and brakes working..It was never once welded on.

I have a neighbor that has bought and sold small tractors for many years..He has a nice 7K tilt bed 16 ft bumper hitch that he pulls with a 1500 Chevy..It doesnt take a semi to haul an 8N Ford..
 
"You haul stuff your way and we here in the midwest will haul stuff our way..We must have lots better roads and much less traffic than you do..""

So the laws of physics don't apply to xenophopes?


"For a few times a year you dont buy a 3/4 ton or dually with a 10K or 14K trailer"

The trailer and truck is either overloaded or it's not. One inspection by the DOT will prove that.
Overload anything into the yield point of metal and it will rapidly fatigue and fail. It's not a matter of if, just when. Tires will rapidly deteriate when overloaded. You can't see the failure of belts and rubber inside from the outside.
 
I pull a 14k goose neck behind a modern 1/2 ton. 149,000 miles later it has only needed a fuel pump. My 10 ply tires wear just like... well 10 ply tires. Why would belts fail prematurely?

I'm an engineer. I understand metal fatigue as I did study metallurgy some while in school. I also know that a margin of safety is factored into the weight ratings on trucks. Minor overloading, occasionally will not hurt the truck within reasonable limits. Ie: 4600 lb rear axle weight for 350 miles, once.

CT
 

There you go calling people names again. Kind of a pot and kettle thing.

The 1/2 ton with a 4000 lb tractor is NOT overloaded. You why do you keep bitching? Maybe you should read some of the posts before you respond.
 
The topic started out as #1 Purchase just enough trailer to get by without any reserve capacity. Not being able to tow heavier loads in the future. And run equipment at or near it max rated limit. Continuous usage at max rated limit is a common factor in area equipment failure.
Or #2 For a few extra bucks purchase a hauling system that isn't maxed out.
 
Well Jim our friend just doesnt seem to get it...When he
doesnt get his way he likes to call names...Its been that
way for years..He must be related to Plowboy on
Newagtalk..

I guess if he had bought a new 4020 JD in the 1960's he
would have only pulled a 3 bottom plow with it because a
5 bottom plow would have maxed it out...There must have
been (50) 4020's in my area and they all pulled
5x16's...Even the 3020's pulled 4x16's and the 2510;s
pulled 4x14's...Yes,our soil is sandy and doesnt pull hard.

Its perfectly legal to haul a 4000-4500 lb tractor or load
of any kind on a 7K trailer pulled by a 1/2 ton pickup..Its
probably the most popular combination that I see...Many
years ago I towed with a F-100 Ford with a 3/4 ton
rear,heavy springs,and bigger tires...It did really nice..

If a nicely built 7k trailer weighs 2200 and the tractor
weighs 4000-4500 then he has 300 to 800 lbs to
spare..Every once in awhile I'm that close on my 14K
trailer...In fact just recently I was some over that for a 7
mile haul..

A 16 ft trailer isnt as maxed out as a 3/4 ton pulling a 25
ft 14K gooseneck with a 9-10,000 lb tractor on it or a
dually pulling a huge tandem axle trailer with 18,000 on
it..I see that all the time..You seldom see anyone only
using half the capacity..

I have a friend that is a new trailer dealer and he probably
sells (5) 16 ft bumper hitch trailers to every one of any
other size..His trailers are very nicely built..If you want to
go up in size he will gladly take your older trailer in trade
as he can quickly sell all the used ones he can get..

The guy asked what it would take to haul a 4500 lb tractor
and he was given plenty of answers..If thats all he ever
intends to haul a 7K trailer will do fine..If not he can
always trade up..Thats what I did..I have way more truck
and trailer than I need 90% of the time but I occasionally
haul some pretty big loads.
 
I fully agree with F-350. A car hauler with 3500, 5200, or 6000 lb axles are more than sufficient to haul that tractor. It is also lower to the ground to make loading/unloading easier and safer. With a pipe top you have to have a WIDE trailer to fit most farm tractors on.

I have hauled a Farmall 504 on a wide pipe top 16 ft 2-3500 axle trailer before 60 miles 1-way. Twice . Then I stepped up to a 20 ft goose neck that I wish was a 25+5. All behind a 1/2 ton and felt safe.

Good luck and happy trailering!

CT
 
(quoted from post at 05:54:09 06/21/11) The topic started out as #1 Purchase just enough trailer to get by without any reserve capacity. Not being able to tow heavier loads in the future. And run equipment at or near it max rated limit. Continuous usage at max rated limit is a common factor in area equipment failure.
Or #2 For a few extra bucks purchase a hauling system that isn't maxed out.

I think owning an old D8 Cat would be very cool someday. Unfortunately, I only have a 12k bumper pull trailer. I guess I really screwed up by not buying a new KW with a detach trailer. I promise to buy something that will cover all of my future needs next time.

You are correct that equipment that is maxed out will have a shorter life than equipment that isnt. Thanks for pointing that out. But I really only need my trailer to last 40 years. I really don't need infinite life. I have seen far more trailer tires blow out from old age than from being overloaded.
 
I don't know where you are, F-350, but I know Nebraska sure is a lot different than back in PA. I've run into the ethanol plant near 100K on 5 axles regularly. The highway's flat, you just let off the throttle and let the engine brake work a little longer. Never could get away with that back east. Only trouble is, the large cars that come into town behind you, just as heavy, and don't think far enough ahead to not burn their own brakes up.

Unless width precluded it, I'd probably just get the 7K car hauler, too. I had over 5K (after chains and binders) on a bumper pull behind a V6 half ton Chevy. It knew the weight was back there, but with that little motor stopping was less a concern than getting going. I kept it on the back roads with that load.

We have three gooseneck stock trailers at work. With the prodigy controller in the one duramax, you can say that none of them have working brakes. You just have to look forward past the end of your hood, and past the rear bumper of any car ahead of you. If you can't see past him, you back off to where you have plenty room to easily stop if he does.

Can't wait to read the heck I catch over this one.
 

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