Tractor fitting Trailer

Anonymous-0

Well-known Member
Hi all , just bought a tractor that has a 86" tire width and the trailer is 83 " inside the fenders. Will the tires collapse to squeeze by , or will they try to climb on the fenders ?

Thanks -- Larry
 
Most likely they will collapse a little then pop your fenders off unless they are very heavy steel and attachment.
 
They are heavy checker plate and welded solid To bad my axles are not more forward and I could stradle them oh well can't have it all .
 
a couple of ideals, build up wood ramps, inside wells to crawl over top of fenders, that are not reinforced to handle weight. some fenders don't have supports. got extra car ramps, butt them up to each other to make a bridge next to wheel wells, make sure they are supported together [tied] so they don't slide apart
 
There is no way your tires are going to narrow 3" they will climb the fenders and break them off. try resting the wheel width. or ramp up over the fenders with planks to support the tractor as you go over.
 
Just a thought. If you cannot move the wheels in, find a flat deck trailer you can use. The thought of having a 6000 lb tractor parked on planks or automobile ramps seems sketchy. And I have been criticized for towing a GN with a 1/2 ton? At least it was on a 8' wide flat deck with 4 chains and binders.

Good luck!
CT
 
I don't think the tractor would actually be PARKED on the planks for the ride home... They would just be to get the wheels past the fenders.

But yeah, don't try to "squeeze" the tractor between the fenders. It will not end well for the tractor or the trailer.

Also don't try to lay planks across from fender to fender, then expect to drive the tractor up and over. That'll CRUSH the fenders. The main support for the ramps will need to be based off the trailer's deck.
 
I think with some luck that I will stop the tractor behind the fenders, and hope that I have enough tongue weight to travel down the road . Anyway , I let you guys know what happens .

Thanks -- Larry
 
(quoted from post at 10:29:40 04/29/11) I don't think the tractor would actually be PARKED on the planks for the ride home... They would just be to get the wheels past the fenders.

But yeah, don't try to "squeeze" the tractor between the fenders. It will not end well for the tractor or the trailer.

Also don't try to lay planks across from fender to fender, then expect to drive the tractor up and over. That'll CRUSH the fenders. The main support for the ramps will need to be based off the trailer's deck.

For the absolute best ride and handling, the rear wheels of the tractor need to be centered between the trailer axles, unless you load the tractor backwards, and then all bets are off. If the rear tires of the tractor will not fit between the fenders of the trailer, you have the wrong trailer. Plain and simple.
 
Great solution --- buy a deck over but I just bought this perfered low boy trailer last year brand new and it fits my 5 other tractors -- until this big guy come along -- I suppose that I could trade it in for a deck over.
 
I cut some solid wood ramps that are a little higher than the top of the fenders. I drive up on them and the extra rubber hangs over on top of the fenders without touching them. I can set them so I get the tractor balanced on the trailer axles and tie it down there. I have seen new combines hauled setting on wood blocks and no wheels at all and figured if it works for them, it should work for me. I use 4 chains and binders so it shouldn't go any where.
 
Larry, I've done this many times. I've used cement blocks and 2 x 8's to drive the tractor on backwards. Park the tractor with the rear wheels just past the fenders. Tractor sitting firmly on the deck of the trailer.

Or find a friend with a deckover...
 
You don't say what the tractor is, which might be helpful. Which way are the wheels dished (if at all) and where are the rims mounted to the wheels, inside or out? You don't need much and either one of those adjustments, if available, might do the trick.
 
Hi Scotty , the tractor is a MM GV1 and has wheel weights inside the wheels so there is no space to move the wheels in , but perhaps when I do get it home then I can remove the inner weights and use external ones .I also relied on external_link for measurements and it says width is 82 " and thats perhaps without the inside wheel weights?
 
Look at external_link again.

The stripped weight of that tractor starts in excess of 8000 pounds, and wheel weights only as to that number.

The trailer you describe sounds an awful lot like a car hauler, typically rated for 7K.One should not move a G-VI on such a trailer on a public road.
 
Assuming everything else is OK, can you grind the welds off that hold the fenders on, and bolt them on? This will let you easily remove the fenders for such situations in the future. That is a feature on some trailers.
 
The trailer is 83" inside the fenders, and has 2- 7000 lbs axles with 8 bolt rims and weighs 3300 lbs empty built in Texas. So if the MM weighs 9000, my combined weight is still less than 14000, but thanks for checking Tractor .com anyway .
 
I worked at a shop where I fabracated ,A guy wanted fenders made out of 8 inch Channel iron,kinda heavy but he could drive his tractors over the wheels easy that way
 
Aha! Guessing from the weight it's a tagalong, or is it a gooseneck?

Anyways, it's certainly got axle enough.

And apologies. I can see how my remark came across as a jab, but wasn't meant as such. An(obviously) erroneous assumption on my part . . . that most trailers with the capacity for an 8k load or better are deckovers . . .
 
You didn't say how far you have to move it,but Neb.and MM both say it weights 11,500 to 12,250 DRY(LP or Diesel) so if it has weights plus fluid?? you could be looking at a 15,000 lbs.plus tractor.Better weight it or be checking a little closer.
 
I'm worried too about an overloaded car trailer. Too many wrecks with people too optimistic of their equipments capacity, their driving ability and their luck.
 
I have a PJ gooseneck trailer. It is rated at 15,400 and is 20' plus 2' tail. It is 83-1/2" between the fenders. Fenders are easily removed with 2 bolts on each side to load a wider tractor. I chose this type trailer for 2 main reasons. The weight center of gravity is much lower which helps when hauling a high crop or similar. Second, measure center to center of the tires tread width and spring width. The lower trailer is much wider for a little more stability.

For one load, I removed the fenders and was still close. I then blocked the axles up on rail road ties and pulled the wheels. After loading, put the wheels back on and torqued, put the fenders on and gone. Repeat when unloading.
 
I don't really buy the lower center of gravity theme. Only trailers I see on their side or in the ditch. Are due to being cut off in traffic, tire failures or unbalanced and swayed off the road.
I would rather have a 102" wide deck over trailer so tractor tires are not overhanging the edge. Which will make the tractor sway on the trailer which is a greater concern for stability.
The other tipping concern is too much load and not enough tire and spring. That will make a trailer lean more than being a 6" higher deckover.
 
(quoted from post at 07:48:23 05/03/11) I don't really buy the lower center of gravity theme. Only trailers I see on their side or in the ditch. Are due to being cut off in traffic, tire failures or unbalanced and swayed off the road.
I would rather have a 102" wide deck over trailer so tractor tires are not overhanging the edge. Which will make the tractor sway on the trailer which is a greater concern for stability.
The other tipping concern is too much load and not enough tire and spring. That will make a trailer lean more than being a 6" higher deckover.

I agree here. I have hauled an 8,000 lb row crop tractor on an 8x20 deck over with a 1/2 ton. Top heavy is not the issue. Also like B&D said, the deck over is more versatile in what you can place on it w/o worrying about are the fenders in the way. I almost bought a trailer with drive over fenders, I'm glad I did not.

There is no "Perfect" trailer. Trailers are designed to do specific tasks. This is why I have 3. A 5x8 for the golf cart and small loads, 7(inside)x16 tandem pipe top for general use and the 8x20 deck over goose neck for larger stuff.

Good luck,

CT
 
Any deckover I have seen is more than 6 inches higher than any fenderwell trailer I have seen. And if you chain it right, full width or 1/4 width of the tire on the deck, it won't move.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top