Advice on a trailer...

Stemmy · Mar 7, 2011

[b:789b402e31]Ive decided to buy my own equipment trailer to haul my Farmall M and any other piece of equipment we have (if needed) or any tractor that I buy in the future. Tow rig is my 06 F250 SC LB 4x4 with 5.4L , Ive mostly towed larger landscaping trailers with it when I go on riding trips or when I haul hay and misc crap. Recently put a Prodigy P2 brake controller in my truck and I've decided on a Bri-Mar 14' 10K GVWR equipment trailer. I plan on going to look at one either later this week or next week at Hillside Trailers and Caps in Frederick, MD.

Just wanted to get some opinions on what you guys think of my decision. Biggest thing I plan on hauling is prolly going to be my M. Any opinion and help is greatly appreciated.

Heres a pic of my truck...[/b:789b402e31]

[b:789b402e31]Heres the Link to the Trailer...[/b:789b402e31] http://www.bri-mar.com/trailerdetail.php?modelsid=45&categorysid=2

RandyB(MI) · Mar 7, 2011

Seems you've done your research. The only thing I can add is go at least 18' long , you won't regret it and the extra length is the cheapest part of the sale. RB

toolz · Mar 7, 2011

They make a good trailer, but I'd sure go with a deck-over gooseneck. Those fenders really get in the way- have to narrow up the rear tractor wheels, and if you ever want to load something up with a forklift, your fenders get beat up. 14,000 lb goosenecks are everywhere, and can be bought right. They just pull so much better, and safer, in my opinion.

Stemmy · Mar 7, 2011

thought about getting a gooseneck, but I cant really justify buying that BIG of a trailer for how much im going to use it. Plus Id have to get the 5th wheel hitch to put in my truck.

1 Dollar · Mar 8, 2011

Go longer than 14'. Holy Moly 16+2 7K is barely enough to keep me happy behind a little 1999 F-150. Got a 22' 14K split-deck behing a 3/4 ton Chevy at work that goes VERY well together.

Example:

Untitled URL Link

charles todd · Mar 8, 2011

I did not think I was going to tow much stuff home either. I outgrew a 16' bumper pull and moved to a 20' goose neck. It has 2 - 6,000 lb axles, brakes on both. 2001 K1500, 5.3L, 3.73 gear posi tow rig.

Examples:

15"I.D concrete culverts, 8' long.

One of Our other good purchases.

My Farmall 504

Most recent purchase.

All made possible by a good trailer. If you can swing the extra cost of the trailer and hitch (B&W is my pick) I'm go GN. They tow MUCH better.

CT

ericlb · Mar 8, 2011

im not sure id want a M on a bumper pull trailer, if you must, id sure get a set of swaybars for it , that being said when looking at any bumper pull trailer crawl under the thing and see what kind of frame it has, as well as how many axles are brakes both would be nice, i bought a trailer 2 weeks ago, and promptly bent the whole back end down, with a tractor that it should have handeled according to the vin tag, about the size of a M, i fixed it, but, when i looked under it the whole trailer was angle iron, no real frame, on looking at other bumper pull trailers there are are a lot of them that way, and i can tell you there not worth a darn, make sure the trailer is well framed before you buy

rustyfarmall · Mar 8, 2011

14' is way too short, and 10k is way too light. A Farmall M will overload that trailer in a heartbeat. Listen to the other guys and go after a minimum of a 20+5 deckover gooseneck and 14k rating.

charles todd · Mar 8, 2011

I agree with RustyFarmall on the weight rating. My trailer is technically a 10,400 lb rated trailer. I have it overloaded in all the pictures. I could put 2-7k axles under it, but I plan to add 1 more 6k axle under it to it to keep it as low as possible (8-ply 15's). I know some people do not like trips, but I have pulled them w/o tire issues.

14k (2-7k) will do whatever most people need. I found my B&W hitch at an RV dealer used. They had pulled it off of a truck and it was in almost new condition. I paid $160 for it and I installed it in about 2 hours.

Food for thought. Happy Hunting!

CT

M Nut · Mar 8, 2011

I have a 20+5 gooseneck, and an 18ft 10,000lb skidloader trailer. I've hauled an M Farmall with wide front, 3pt, and loaded rear tires on the gooseneck, and I didn't even know it was on there. I wouldn't hesitate to use my 10,000lb trailer to haul it. If you have nothing larger than the M to haul, I'd go with the 10,000lb trailer. Just might go a little longer though, as 14ft seems a little short in my opinion.

Anonymous-0 · Mar 8, 2011

go to appalachintrailers.com look at their 14000 gooseneck trailer for under 4000. earl

CLTX · Mar 8, 2011

I would strongly urge you to go with a larger deck-over goose neck trailer than what you are initially considering. You have plenty of truck to handle a larger set-up. You mention "the M and any other equipment ----". I seriously doubt that the M will fit between the fenders of that trailer. The 14 foot trailer would limit you to the tractor only, and with little room to adjust the balance for a proper bumper hitch weight distribution.
You later mentioned a fifth-wheel hitch. A goose neck hitch is somewhat different in that it can, with the proper set-up, be concealed below the bed, so as to allow for full usage of the bed for normal hauling. The trailer dealer will have the different configurations that are available. Give it some serious thought. Yes, your initial outlay is going to be more, but I don't think you will ever regret it. Being under-trailered is almost money down the drain. BTDT. Just my two cents. By the way, I love my Prodigy.
C. L.

Stemmy · Mar 8, 2011

(quoted from post at 13:34:14 03/08/11) I would strongly urge you to go with a larger deck-over goose neck trailer than what you are initially considering. You have plenty of truck to handle a larger set-up. You mention "the M and any other equipment ----". I seriously doubt that the M will fit between the fenders of that trailer. The 14 foot trailer would limit you to the tractor only, and with little room to adjust the balance for a proper bumper hitch weight distribution.
You later mentioned a fifth-wheel hitch. A goose neck hitch is somewhat different in that it can, with the proper set-up, be concealed below the bed, so as to allow for full usage of the bed for normal hauling. The trailer dealer will have the different configurations that are available. Give it some serious thought. Yes, your initial outlay is going to be more, but I don't think you will ever regret it. Being under-trailered is almost money down the drain. BTDT. Just my two cents. By the way, I love my Prodigy.
C. L.

I greatly appreciated everybodys opinion and advice but I have totally ruled out getting a Gooseneck trailer, a good friend of mine has a 24' GN and a 05 F350 6.0 CC dually that I can borrow at any time. I know I said 5th wheel hitch, but thats what Ive always called GN hitches so thats just my "slang" for reference to a GN hitch. I will have to move my wheels in on my M which I plan to do anyway. The one thing I like about the Bri-Mar trailer I mentioned is its 82" between the fenders. Most other equipment trailers ive looked at are around 78" between fenders. Friday ill likely be going to Hillside to look at trailers and possibly coming home with one. weather permitting.

Stemmy · Mar 8, 2011

(quoted from post at 11:17:01 03/08/11) I have a 20+5 gooseneck, and an 18ft 10,000lb skidloader trailer. I've hauled an M Farmall with wide front, 3pt, and loaded rear tires on the gooseneck, and I didn't even know it was on there. I wouldn't hesitate to use my 10,000lb trailer to haul it. If you have nothing larger than the M to haul, I'd go with the 10,000lb trailer. Just might go a little longer though, as 14ft seems a little short in my opinion.

Largest thing we have is the M, I dont plan on buying anything bigger. I agree a 14 ft'r does seem a little short, so Ill def be going with atleast a 16 ft'er.

VicS · Mar 8, 2011

I see your mind is made up, and that is the reason they make all different kinds and sizes of trailers. I pulled my tractors for 20 plus years with a 7000 lb bumper trailer, used a reese hitch when I went a long ways. But in 05 I finally got a Corn-Pro 15000 gooseneck with torsion axles. spring loaded ramps it is a 20 & 5. When I go pulling I can haul my golf cart. Oh I have a 03 Ford just like yours. They are real trailer pullers. Not so much hp, but real stable under load. You will regret not getting a gooseneck. Vic

Stemmy · Mar 8, 2011

You will regret not getting a gooseneck. Vic

I guess time will tell. If I hauled more and more frequently I would consider the thought of spending the extra on one but I think Ill be just fine with a equipment trailer. worse case scenario I can always sell it or trade it in on a GN trailer.

F-350 · Mar 9, 2011

A guy I know has hauled a 4500 lb M Farmall puller on a 7000 lb
bumper hitch trailer for over 30 years now..He pulls it with a 1/2
ton IH pickup.

How can a normal M Farmall overload a 10,000 lb trailer?He easily
could haul a 6-7000 lb M Farmall with no problems.He does need a
16 ft one as 14 ft is plenty short..

F-350 · Mar 9, 2011

Get a 16 ft 10,000 lb trailer and you will do fine.... Some people
would tell you that a semi isnt enough to haul an 8N Ford..

Stemmy · Mar 9, 2011

(quoted from post at 17:52:24 03/09/11) Get a 16 ft 10,000 lb trailer and you will do fine.... Some people
would tell you that a semi isnt enough to haul an 8N Ford..

haha aint that the truth.

Oldmax · Mar 10, 2011

Wouldn't buy any thing under 16' check price on 14' & 16' was the same at my dealer. 12', 14' & 16 ' tandom was the same price.

souNdguy · Mar 12, 2011

16' tandem minimum for hauling a tractor and ballancing it. 18' ( 16'ith dovetail )is even better.

soundguy

Stemmy · Mar 13, 2011

[b:1728a70a0a]Well I brought home a new toy today... After a bit of thinking and talking with my uncle (who went with me) I ended up getting a sweet deal on some overkill.

I am now the proud owner of a 2011 Premier 20 foot (4 foot DT) x 101" deck over, rated for 14K GVWR. Paid a little over $5500 on the road, including a new receiver and ball. I was suprised although my 5.4L is rolling on 35's it pulls really good without a lot of RPMS, and you really dont know that the trailer is behind it even on back roads, and my prodigy brake controller couldnt work any better. Anyways, heres some pics for now.
[/b:1728a70a0a]

charles todd · Mar 13, 2011

Very nice trailer Stemmy. It should carry any project you have well. The only thing missing is a picture of the Farmall M parked on top of it :lol:

Enjoyed,
CT

Stemmy · Mar 13, 2011

I gotta make a 3rd ramp for the back of the trailer before I can put the M on it. Might be hauling some round bales this week, if I do ill get some pics.

VicS · Mar 13, 2011

Good choice, You will be glad you went that big, I
load tricycle tractors with two ramps all the time
just come in at a angle so your rear tire arrives at
the ramp the same time as your front wheels arrive
at the other rFamp. Then turn say turn left and ride
your left brake , your right wheel will be lined up
with its ramp. unloading is just opposite, back off
as slow as it will go, when it's time just turn your
front wheels left or right to keep them on the ramp.
Vic.

charles todd · Mar 13, 2011

I'd make 3rd ramp too. I understand what Vic is saying, but that is cutting it close with a 4 ton machine 3 ft off the ground. At least for me. My ramps are 8' long, I do not know if the Vic method will work on my trailer.

Enjoy,

CT

Stemmy · Mar 14, 2011

yeah I think im gonna just play it safe by making a 3rd ramp lol

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