Trailer Brakes

1 Dollar · Jul 22, 2009

I've got a tandem axle utility trailer that the electric brakes do not work on. It originally had 1 brake axle. I just added the brakes to the rear axle as well as trying to get the front axle brakes to work again. Of the 4 drums, I think they all buzz, and 1 actually locks up (driver side, front axle) when I freely spin the tires. They are all adjusted tight to the point or dragging some. Does the problem lie in the wiring? They are not backwards; the actuator arm is facing forward on all 4. The supplier I got the new hub/drums from said just wire in the new ones, doesn't matter which magnet wire goes to ground and hot.

This is just confusing me since 1 of them is actually working

Thanks

On_the_road_again · Jul 22, 2009

(quoted from post at 08:40:14 07/22/09) I've got a tandem axle utility trailer that the electric brakes do not work on. It originally had 1 brake axle. I just added the brakes to the rear axle as well as trying to get the front axle brakes to work again. Of the 4 drums, I think they all buzz, and 1 actually locks up (driver side, front axle) when I freely spin the tires. They are all adjusted tight to the point or dragging some. Does the problem lie in the wiring? They are not backwards; the actuator arm is facing forward on all 4. The supplier I got the new hub/drums from said just wire in the new ones, doesn't matter which magnet wire goes to ground and hot.

This is just confusing me since 1 of them is actually working

Thanks

It isn't clear how old the trailer/brake wiring is ...
I would install all new wiring for the trailer brakes.
It isn't clear whether you have a breakaway switch installed?
If you haven't put one in, you need to install one with a separate battery source that does not rely on 12VDC from the tow vehicle.
It doesn't matter which wire from the magnet goes to your brake supply or ground wire, but if you have your brake controller wire grounded from the tow vehicle thru the trailer wiring - you can ruin your brake controller - blow a fuse - burn up wiring.
If the brake backing drums are installed correctly on the driver & passenger sides & the brake shoes are adjusted correctly, all wheels will seize up & not turn when 12VDC is applied.
You should troubleshoot where your problem lies by supplying a 12VDC source that is separate from the brake controller on your tow vehicle.
Use a separate battery w/ a fuse installed to check your brakes.

1 Dollar · Jul 22, 2009

Its a 2006 trailer, there isn"t any other issue with the wiring. I"m going to start checking grounds

1 Dollar · Jul 22, 2009

It has a break away and all that as well. Tow vehicle is a 1999 F-150 with all factory wiring for the tow package (7 wire plug), including the hookup for the Tekonsha Prodigy controller. The trailer already had the functional front axle 3 years ago when I bought it barely used, I'm trying to figure out why they stopped working and why the new additions wont work.

Thanks

T_Bone · Jul 22, 2009

Hi 1D,

If the trailer has been sitting, then hook it up and go for a drive at 20mph while applying the trailer brakes. This removes the surface rust from the drum face so they'll work.

I even have to do this on my 5'er and dual tandum flatbed. You'll know if the brakes start working.

T_Bone

1 Dollar · Jul 22, 2009

Well I was pretty confident in my wiring (Crimped insulated butt connectors, Not scotch locks, I hate them too) so I took MF Poor's advice (Tractor Talk Board) and went for a drive down the gravel roads. They all started working. The gravel allowed me to lock them up and not smoke the tires every time.

The trailer is only about 1000lbs empty so its kind of hard to tell if the brakes are working before lockup since that trailer wont stop my truck. Loaded up the heavy electric golf cart and some suitcase weights and I could stop great.

Thanks for the help

mattofvinings · Jul 24, 2009

IMHO a butt splice is just barely better than a scotchlock for outdoor (vehicle/trailer) use.

When you get the butt splices with the heat-shrink already applied (and then finish the job) or install your own heat-shrink tubing over an existing butt splice then you are taking a step forward in longevity and reliability.

Brian Jasper co. Ia · Jul 25, 2009

Once I soldered and used heat shrink on all of my trailer wiring, I never had any more light problems. Going on 10 years trouble free now.

scot in pa · Sep 17, 2009

I went one better and got uninsulated butt connectors. Fairly expensive but I soldered all my connections then used double-wall marine-grade (water-tight) shrink wrap. I haul old saltwater tanks occasionally and don't want that getting into the wires.

Trailer Brakes

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