Trailer lights

SVcummins

Well-known Member
Update well it took a long time only been able to
work on this project a little bit each day but I finally
got all the wire pulled and got both stop tail and turn
signals working now I just need to wire in the side
marker lights and this project will be done
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I have replaced the lights on my tandem flatbed a few times but the main harness and conduit need to be renewed. The conduit got beat nearly flat by the springs running heavy. Where it is not flat it is gone from rust.
 
The conduit on this one is actually the trailer frame work and it
is in good shape I Will wrap the wire coming from the junction
box with wire loom and clean up a few loose ends it will be nice
to have this thing done
 
Do yourself a favor and get rid of that junction box and unsealed crimp on connectors. Solder and heat shrink every connection. You will rarely have a light or brake problem if you can keep the water out of the wires. Also don't waste your money on those replacement style trailer connectors, use a molded pigtail style. A dry harness is a happy harness.
 

Probably 15 years ago I reconnected some light wires on my SEVERE SERVICE snowmobile trailer with some wire nuts that had a little plastic cover on the opening that the wires slip through, with some kind of paste inside. Well, a week ago I opened one up because the light wasn't working. The problem turned out to be the ground, and the wire nut was still in perfectly good condition so I reused it. Quick and easy and good for long term.
 
The only molded pigtail I could find was 6 feet long which is about 3 feet to short I am going to liquid tape all the connections I used the boxes because I did not want a bunch of sloppy connections and it give you to places to check for power and find the problem with light or circuit all the semi trailers I?ve worked on have them and it makes it nice to find and fix a problem if there ever is one
 
I think as long as you can seal it up good anything
would work ok a wire nut might even be better than
a butt splice it seems like that?s where the bad
connection is at the butt splice whenever I have to
use a butt splice I fill it up with die electric grease
 
Why does everybody seem to use individual wires for these jobs, when the whole thing can be done with the old 4or 7 wire harness, and not have to worry about water and other contaminates getting in the harness. Those lights with the replaceable 1157 bulbs are junk also. The sealed lights with the rubber grommets last the longest with the least maintenance. Been on my trailers for over 20 years. Some maybe the originals though I would doubt it.
 
(quoted from post at 04:46:55 02/07/18) Why does everybody seem to use individual wires for these jobs, when the whole thing can be done with the old 4or 7 wire harness, and not have to worry about water and other contaminates getting in the harness. Those lights with the replaceable 1157 bulbs are junk also. The sealed lights with the rubber grommets last the longest with the least maintenance. Been on my trailers for over 20 years. Some maybe the originals though I would doubt it.

I think that most of us don't have the time to replace the whole harness every time that a little repair is needed. I am still on all of my original harnesses, but I have replaced a lot of lights. One trailer is going to get a new harness soon but it will be in new conduit as well
 
I ran 4 wire from the trailer plug to the junction box and from there down through the frame then a length of four wire from the second box to the left taillight the right tail light has single wires to it these are the rubber mounted tailight I would never put steal mounted lights on anything
 

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