Farmall 230 securing locations

Bodaver32

Member
Gentlemen,

I have spent a lot of time restoring this tractor. These are the before photos :D . I hope to have it completed this Fall.

I would like to trailer the tractor and on four corners with chains and binders. Can you offer me suggestions on where/how to attach chains to the tractor?

The rear of the tractor has the two point fast hitch and doesn't offer good straight paths for the chains.

Many thanks.

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Since no one else replied, here goes.
Find point on both sides, forward and back,
where you can bolt a chain hook to tractor
body. Tie off to those hooks. That way you
avoid dragging chain across your nice
paint. Those hooks can be found in a
variety of configurations.
 
If your tractor is painted you have 3 bolt
holes on each side of the bolster. Take
one of the bolts and get a chain that the
bolt will go thru so you can attach it to
both sides. You only need 8 inches of
chain on each side. Now you can chain it
with two binders. On the rear bolt a hook
on each side of the drawbar under it. Now
you can chain the rear and doesnt mess up
the pant
 
You could bolt chain or hooks on front and use clevis or hooks on draw bar. I use hooks on front of my Allis Chalmers WD45 and chains on my
IH 450. On rear of 450 use 2 clevis on D drawbar. I did find a picture of a C with chains on front end.
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Not a good idea to chain through the drawbar on a fast hitch tractor. You're putting all that stress on the hydraulic cylinder which can leak down and allow the chain to slacken.

I'm also not sure that some of those methods depicted are legal. Maybe they are or maybe they aren't but I was of the understanding that DOT required four SEPARATE tie downs, not a single chain slung through a clevis in the drawbar, or through the loops in the wheels.

I see farmers do the one-chain-through-the-clevis bit all the time, and maybe it's okay for ag and non-commercial. It doesn't give me the warm fuzzies about the tractor staying on the trailer, especially when it's a heavily-weighted Allis 220.
 
(quoted from post at 04:56:35 08/24/17) Not a good idea to chain through the drawbar on a fast hitch tractor. You're putting all that stress on the hydraulic cylinder which can leak down and allow the chain to slacken.

I'm also not sure that some of those methods depicted are legal. Maybe they are or maybe they aren't but I was of the understanding that DOT required four SEPARATE tie downs, not a single chain slung through a clevis in the drawbar, or through the loops in the wheels.

I see farmers do the one-chain-through-the-clevis bit all the time, and maybe it's okay for ag and non-commercial. It doesn't give me the warm fuzzies about the tractor staying on the trailer, especially when it's a heavily-weighted Allis 220.

I've hauled many tractors (not just my own) with 2 chains at the front, and 1 chain through a clevis on the drawbar at the rear. Probably the largest of the tractors was a 756 IH. I'm not saying it is 100% correct, but I've never been stopped. I have been thoroughly scrutenized by the D.O.T., but never was stopped.
 
On my WD45 I use 2 chains on drawbar.I feel safer with 2 chains on back just in case one would break. On the IH 450 the 2 clevis that are pined to each corner of draw bar are rated at 16,000 lbs. each.
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Thanks guys for the comments. I wanted to use four separate chains. I am thinking on the rear, a chain going through the loops on the rear wheels and the short piece of chain bolted to each side of the front bolster. I will get an old piece of fire hose or something for the rear chains.

I considered going around the rear axles but the angles are wrong and stuff gets in the way.

The tractor isn't going to be a trailer queen, as I am going to be using it, but I also like the looks of it shiny. :D

This is where I am at today. Hood and grill to go...

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On my son's C, we bolted a pair of cinch hooks to the forward hole in the side triangular hole pattern under the radiator. Use a
grade 8 bolt & washers. Tighten the hook in the angle of the pull. The rear, a clevis thru his draw bar. Work well for
years.
 
(quoted from post at 13:53:02 08/24/17) On my son's C, we bolted a pair of cinch hooks to the forward hole in the side triangular hole pattern under the radiator. Use a
grade 8 bolt & washers. Tighten the hook in the angle of the pull. The rear, a clevis thru his draw bar. Work well for
years.


Can you help me out with what a cinch hook is or looks like?
 
I have 2 tractors that I haul to tractor rides. One is a Farmall 300 and the other is an IH 454. The pictures show the hold downs I've made and
they seem to work well. I use four chains with "C" hooks on one end that attach to the tractor and regular hooks that attach to the trailer.
Wayne
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The number two picture with the quick link is only 2,200 lbs.WLL if it is a 3/8" link. If you need a link Dot says to use one of these. A grade 70 3/8" is rated at 6,600lbs and next size under it in grade 70 is rated 5,400 lbs..
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The four links I use are 1/2 inch each. If I understand chain down procedures, the combined number of chains must have a capacity greater than the weight of what is being secured. Wayne
 
I didn't know you could use them for on a binder chain and Of the several cargo supplier I have none of them are DOT approved.
 
First off that is basically like an A,C,Cub you can break the blcok corners off pulling to hard on it. Just like if it is stuck. So I would put a bracket on the sides that has a piece across the front then with a plate with a hole you can use a shackle to chain to. Then for the back use a chain to the cross bar in the fast hitch or go up into the center under the hitch and tie in. Nobody will notice if the paint has a scratch unless they lie down there to look at something. Tieing through the wheels has kind of sharp edges for a strap and could result in a cracked or broke casting. Also if you don't get up some on the casting it can rock back and forth. I've seen it happen going down the road and in driveways.
 

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