Chains and binders for new trailer.

TJ in KY

Member
Recently bought a new trailer 14000# 18 foot long to haul my recently restored Ford 8n to some shows. I also have a Allis Chalmers 175 that I may haul from time to time and a MF 230 with a 5 Foot bush hog.
I am looking to buy chains and ratchet binders that would handle the AC175 with loaded tires so I am figuring about 10,000#
Any input on size and length of the chains and binders.
Totally new to hauling stuff like this so any help would be appreciated.
Do I need to have a chain and binder on the bush hog if it is attached to the tractor with the three point hitch?
 
yes to the chain on the brush hog, all attachments must be chained down, i even had a fresh out of school dot cop get me for no chain on the blade of a d8,r cat! he had no idea how much that blade weighs and the fact that with the engine shut down that blade for sure wont move around, but he had that rule memorized , if it were me, id spend the money once for chains and binders, with an eye for the future, you sound like a tractor nut, and sooner or later one that is heavy is going to spot you and hop on your trailer , get some good transport chains, at least 5, and the ratchet binders cost a little more than the over center type, but man are they better! this way with that trailer you can tie down anything you find yourself hauling
 
It"s a yes on chaining down bush hog. If you go to US Cargo Controls website they have the specs on chains, binders and straps.I use 3/8"
grade 70 with over center and ratchet binders to match chain. I also carry several 3" Dot straps.I use over center on front of tractor(just
snug) and use the ratchet on rear to pull it down tight.
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You'll also learn pretty quickly how best to load your equipment for proper load distribution.

What kind of truck are you towing with? 3/4-ton? 1-ton?
 

Just as an FYI straps are legal for virtually all loads, provided the rating is adequate, same as with chains. When you look at OTR flatbed trucks you will see a lot more straps in use than chains.
 
(quoted from post at 18:59:26 06/27/17)
Just as an FYI straps are legal for virtually all loads, provided the rating is adequate, same as with chains. When you look at OTR flatbed trucks you will see a lot more straps in use than chains.

Yep, and them straps are big, heavy, and pulled STRAIGHT, not wrapped around and twisted like many tie their tractors.

Straps are not made to put thru rims, wrap around draw bars and such.
 
I have hauled equipment and steel for lots of years, and I think 3/8 grade 70 is over kill. I have always used 5/16 grade 70. It has held everything I have hauled. Once a car pulled in front of me and I stomped on the brakes and it pulled the tie downs out of my trailer, but the chains held. I don't know where you are in Ky, but I get mine at Kentuckyana wire rope in Jeffersonville, In. across the river from Louisville. The 5/16 chain is a lot easier to handle than 3/8.
 
You must not haul any thing real heavy because the WWL of 5/16" G-70 is 4,700 lbs. and WLL of 3/8" G-70 is 6,600lbs.. I have both 5/16 and 3/8 and don't notice that much difference in handling them. I will take the overkiller instead of maybe having a 8,000 lb. tractor setting in the cab with me.
 
When buying your chains and binders be sure to buy good ones. So many times I have seen the ratchet binders with cast handles be bent or broke. I bought CM (Columbus-McKinnon) Made in USA load binders from ratchetstrap.com. The owner was very nice and even made me a custom 8 pack of them with 10% off and free shipping. Came out to $53 per ratchet binder for good Made in USA forged binders. If you go to their website click on Chain/Binder and then look for USA Ratchet Chain Binder for 5/16" - 3/8" G70 & G80 Transport or G43 High Test Chain. As for chains I bought some 3/8 grade 70 chains that were made by Laclede Chain. They say made in USA and are marked every few links with the G7. Seems to be good chain. I came by mine second hand but hardly used. I'm not sure where to find them now. CM made in USA chain is very expensive to buy new.
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Also for the length of chain I would get at least 20ft on all and definitely no less than 16ft. I have a few 25ft and a few 20ft. I never seem to need more.
 
Same here - have 16', 20' and (1) 25'. I also keep a few shorter chains for misc. use, but never for primary chaining. I also have the wide ratchet straps, but I only use them with lumber. I don't trust the nylon against metal edges. However, I'll often use a nylon strap (more if necessary) over the top of the load.
 
(quoted from post at 12:32:14 06/28/17) Same here - have 16', 20' and (1) 25'. I also keep a few shorter chains for misc. use, but never for primary chaining. I also have the wide ratchet straps, but I only use them with lumber. I don't trust the nylon against metal edges. However, I'll often use a nylon strap (more if necessary) over the top of the load.

I took a no longer needed mud flap and cut a bunch of approximately 2"x2" pieces out of it. I use those rubber pads wherever the tie-down straps come in contact with something that would chafe or cut them. The pads work especially well for bringing home a stack of fence panels.
 
(quoted from post at 12:32:14 06/28/17) Same here - have 16', 20' and (1) 25'. I also keep a few shorter chains for misc. use, but never for primary chaining. I also have the wide ratchet straps, but I only use them with lumber. I don't trust the nylon against metal edges. However, I'll often use a nylon strap (more if necessary) over the top of the load.

You are right to not want to put your straps over something that may chafe them, even though there are no rules about that. However, the DOT inspector will be happy to write you up for a frayed strap, regardless of how it got that way. Most places that sell straps have sleeves that you can slip over them to protect them on a rough edge.
 
I "have" run out of chains before (although very rare for me), and I remember having to use some automotive-type ratchet straps for some things. I had a 5' rotary mower on the load and had to haul it standing upright, with the PTO shaft facing downward, but removed. Ended up using heavier straps for short runs, with the hooks going through holes in the deck plating.

Nylon straps can handle "some" abrasion and still be trustworthy, but the main thing we're looking at here is the less-common instance of the load being in an accident. THAT is where you want the best chains/binders/straps possible! When we lost our trailer in that accident (wrote about it long time ago), the accident destroyed almost every chain and strap I had. However, the load was over 90% intact and had only shifted on the trailer about 6", as though it was one integral unit.
 
We hauled coils of steel, stainless steel, brass, and copper. We also hauled bundles of lead ingots and drive axles for mining equipment. We used van body trailers and never chained any thing down. All we did was nailed blocking to floor of trailer. The heaviest load I ever pulled was 48,000 lbs. of earth mover axles in a short container trailer with a single axle tractor.
 

I haven't seen a whole lot of trucks on their sides due to load shifts, but two of them were carrying rolls of paper that were around ten foot in diameter in van trailers. It appeared that they were not too well secured.
 
We hauled rolls of paper in vans body trailers and some times they were banded to a large skid and others had wooden chocks nailed to floor
to keep them from rolling. We hauled metal coils the same way. To space the weight out we would lay pallets on floor between palleted coils
of paper.
 
I haul paper rolls all the time, up to 6'
diameter and 8' tall and 8,000lbs. They just
set them on a rubber mat to keep them from
sliding. On the big rolls you get 4 in front
and 3 in back with a large space in between.
Never had one move yet, but I drive pretty
careful with them too. Never had any type of
tiedown or block used on paper rolls.
 
Jon, so these are sitting on end and not on side? That would seem to me to be the most logical way to transport, although I could see loading/unloading potentially being a problem.
 
I hauled rolls of paper like the ones in photo. We hauled them standing like that but some were shipped banded to a skid and others set on
floor of trailer with wooden chocks nailed to floor of trailer.
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The top pics are how they are usually hauled. To load them they have forklifts with clamps that grab the sides similar to the clamps used to move wrapped big bales. The last pic is of the only load I hauled where they layed them down. For that they nailed a block like what you see in the back on each side to keep them from rolling.
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Thanks for all the replies. Sorry I did not get back sooner, things got a little hectic around here. Given all the feedback I got I think I will be looking for ⅜ / ? inch ratchet binders and ⅜ inch grade 70 chain 20 foot long. When I get that stuff I think I will get the trailer hooked up and pull the tractor up on it and see how things work out. My truck is rated for 9800 lbs but I really wanted the flexibility of hauling my Allis Chalmers tractor. I will be using my son-in-laws truck if Ido that. That is why I bought the 14000 lb rated trailer plus you never know what you might get into in the future. Thanks again.
 
Have hauled aluminum coils the same way. 13,000# each. One front: one center: one back: use 2x4 to block it in. Had one load almost flip me on a curve. The 2 x 4s I had used were getting soft. Pulled the nail heads through the boards and let it shift. Got real picky about my timber after that.
 

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