backing an equipment trailer

ejensen

Well-known Member
When backing my equipment trailer I generally put our truck in 4 wheel drive ..
Truck is a 2016 ford F 150. Trailer is a new {2016} eagle tandem axle 10,000 lb trailer. I need a lot of practice. Wanted to know what others do when backing their trailers: Use 4 or 2 wheel drive.
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I only use 4 WD if traction is a problem. Put my hand on the bottom of the wheel and move my hand in the direction I want the trailer to go.
 
On a hard surface I stay in 2WD until there is enough slippage that 4WD is actually needed. 4WD can alternately bind up and slip when the wheels are turned sharp on a hard surface.

Sometimes when backing a heavy load down a steep slope (boat ramp) it is easier to control by leaving the automatic transmission in a forward gear and let the trailer pull the truck backwards. Use the brakes and/or the accelerator to slow your decent.
 
If ground is solid I use 2 wheel drive but if ground is wet and soft I put it in low 4 wheel drive( less strain on engine and drive line).
 
If backing on hard surface (not soft or muddy) : 4 wheel drive can be more hindrance than help. The purpose of 4WD is traction. I am sure at times you can feel the front axle "grabbing" while backing when steering hard left or right. Making components "slip" in axle or scoot on ground
 
Advise already given. Most times 2 wheel unless traction is an issue. For newbies the advise deer tails gave is the best. Hand at the bottom of the wheel, move in the direction you want the trailer to go, then follow the trailer around after it gets going the way you want. Do you have a trailer ball? Much easier to control. If a pintle hitch, well they are much harder to learn on.
 
Delewaresurfman,
I have a 2 5/16 trailer ball. The hitch on the trailer is adjustable.Place I bought the trailer adjusted the trailer hitch to the truck
Thanks for additional advice
 
Question about using 4 wheel drive. Have an area in a field we have that is muddy. Have to use 4 wheel drive as back wheels spin witoout engaging the 4 wheel drive. I just put the engagement for 4 wheel drive in high four wheel drive. Should I use low 4 wheel drive?
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muleboss,

You may have a point. Have driven the older 4 wheel drive military jeeps so have some experience. Also have driven military 6 x 6
gmc trucks This certainly doesn't make me an expert. These vehicles were all manual transmissions not automatic. We also are driving our third Nissan exterra which are 4 wheel drives. Again have read the manual regarding when to use low 4 wheel drive with the Nissans. I think my main learning is learning to pull our equipment trailer and when to use 4 wheel drive.



Thanks for your thoughts but I will continue to learn and drive our new F 150 4 x 4
 
Only use 4wd when traction is an issue. Practice is best. Everyone has their own quirks so just hook it up and practice backing it up.
 
Do you put it in 4HI or 4LO?

There is a valid reason for using 4LO to back up a trailer, especially if you're a novice. It gives you a slower gear and better control over the speed as you are backing up.

If you have lockout hubs on the front, even better, no binding. Unfortunately if you are backing on a hard surface and doing a lot of maneuvering with a modern 4x4 truck, you can get some pretty bad driveline binding.
 
(quoted from post at 05:16:48 04/20/17) Do you put it in 4HI or 4LO?

There is a valid reason for using 4LO to back up a trailer, especially if you're a novice. It gives you a slower gear and better control over the speed as you are backing up.

If you have lockout hubs on the front, even better, no binding. Unfortunately if you are backing on a hard surface and doing a lot of maneuvering with a modern 4x4 truck, you can get some pretty bad driveline binding.

Older 4 wheel drive vehicles (much older) had a seperate lever for the high and low range which allowed you to use the low range in 2 wheel drive if needed. Sometimes, progress isn't progress.
 
Real simple put the trailer where you want it and the truck will follow,sounds dumb but many I see are worried about the truck and not watching the back of the trailer. And learn to back using the mirrors always.
 
Traditional Farmer,
The truck has very good mirrors and I use them for backing. We bought a 20 foot boat in 1977. A single axle trailer is used for the boat. At the time we had a 1966 ford F 100. This truck had good mirrors. Necessary to back the boat down the launch ramp at Shilshole launch ramp here in Seattle. I have had some experience backing trailers. I used to always back the boat into our driveway when returning from fishing.
Years later I put a front receiver hitch on the 1966 and the 1974 F 100 pick ups which were handy for moving the boat in the yard
our first vehicle with 4 wheel drive was a new 2007 Nissan exterra. My first experience with 4 wheel drive newer version vehicle.
Have had experience with the much older 4 wheel drive vehicles. Didn't back anything with these vehicles Thanks for the information
 
rustyfarmall,
You sure know about the older 4 wheel drive vehicles. I am 75 years old now ,The older vehiles were very positive with the separate lever for high and low range I remember one thing about the 6 x 6 vehicles of years ago. They would really go places but going across something with a deep area to a higher area the back of the truck would bottom out at times but the front drive seemed to pull them through I can't remember if the old 6 x 6 ( military surplus , WW 2 versions ) had two positions when they were shifted into 6 wheel drive.
My Wife and I started collecting farm tractors 40 years ago. We have sold most of out tractors but still have 5 tractors left.I always wanted an equipment trailer to move the tractors between our two places. This whole thing new truck, new trailer, is a fun thing for us.
 
BarnyardEngineering,
I have tried 4HI only and the 2016F150 does not have lockout hubs. You are correct about backing on hard surface, There is what I called Lock Stepping of the truck, this is probably the binding you mentioned. Transmission is automatic so I will try learning to back the eq. trailer with 2 wheel drive. One place I need to back is difficult: Have to turn into oncoming traffic and back into our property. luckily we are in a very rural area so traffic isn't too bad.
The way the load ( tractor on the trailer } puts a good load on back of the truck . This keeps the rear wheels from spinning.
 
Pretend Farmer,
Good information. The only time I use four wheel drive is when the back wheels begin to spin. As the weather gets drier the field will dry and will probably not need to use 4 wheel drive.
 
(quoted from post at 13:16:48 04/20/17) Do you put it in 4HI or 4LO?

There is a valid reason for using 4LO to back up a trailer, especially if you're a novice. It gives you a slower gear and better control over the speed as you are backing up.

If you have lockout hubs on the front, even better, no binding. Unfortunately if you are backing on a hard surface and doing a lot of maneuvering with a modern 4x4 truck, you can get some pretty bad driveline binding.

Not really necessary on an automatic. Most people have autos these days.
My previous truck had an NV4500 5 speed manual. The reverse ratio was very fast and it was a 2wd truck. You learn how to backup trailers quick with that.
 
Older 4 wheel drive vehicles (much older) had a seperate lever for the high and low range which allowed you to use the low range in 2 wheel drive if needed. Sometimes, progress isn't progress.

Its a useful feature on a manual transmission truck but pretty useless on an automatic. Now that there are nearly zero pickup trucks made with a manual transmission, it would just be something else to break.
 
A good place to practice backing a trailer is in a big empty parking lot that has parking spaces marked by painted lines. The painted lines are great references that force you to rely on your side mirrors. Stay clear of any light poles any you can't hurt anything. No one will bother you and no one will be looking over your shoulder as you practice. Relax and have fun.
 
ss55,
Good idea for practice backing an equipment trailer. I like the idea of learning without without an audience.
Thanks, Chris
 
For practice, try driving your trailer to a large empty parking lot some evening or weekend, but one that has clear parking lines. Then use those lines to help learn how to react to backing up a trailer.

I never use 4wd unless traction issue. If you're inexperienced at backing, I would probably recommend against the use of 4lo as you may be more likely to get into a situation where you need to turn hard one way or another, and you really don't want to stress your system needlessly. On the other hand, it is correct that it will slow you down and give you more reaction time to make changes.

As for backing up in wet/mussy/snowy conditions, I "have" used 4hi before, but again, only when traction is an issue. In snow, that is quite often. The nearest pavement to us is 20 miles away and our driveway is 1/2 mile long. So yes, I use 4hi more than I'd like to.

We have two trucks, both 1/2-ton. A Chevy with push button 4wd and a Dodge with shift on the floor 4wd. The Chevy works well for driving down the road and needing to shift into 4wd, but will not shift from a sitting position with wheels stopped. The Dodge, however, is very good at shifting between the ranges while sitting still. So the Dodge is our plow truck and normally what I try to use in Winter on our place. I just don't like it on the road - need to fix a little wobble in the Dodge's steering.

One more thing - if you go to an empty parking lot for backing practice, remember to also go there at night so you can practice in those conditions. Once you feel competent at backing, affix some wood stakes to your trailer and, once at the parking lot, add black plastic to the stakes and again practice backing. This will get you used to backing with the least visibility possible. Do this and I promise you'll be an expert in no time.
 
kcm.MN

Thanks for the excellent suggestions for practicing backing a trailer such as the equipment trailer we have. I am looking forward to practice backing the trailer.
 
When my daughter was 17 and in 4H we had a 3 horse slant load and my '99 supercab.
She was always after me to let her take the truck/trailer to shows. I finally told her if she could back it around our circular driveway without any pull fowards she could use it. All of her spare time was spent practicing, finally she did it. Practice, practice.

I did shadow her to the next show :wink:
 
Dune Country,

I agree that practice backing our equipment trailer is the best way to learn. One fortunate thing, our equipment is in a very rural area no major highways. Many places for me to practice
 
I use low range alot. Have a 5speed diesel and reverse is long legged. No slipping the clutch in tight areas. Don't have to turn in the hubs, just like the gear reduction. Just my two cents
 
dan67,
Low range can be very helpful. Two of the farm tractors we have, both gear transmissions, have a lever to engage a lower reduction in the gears for slow movement. A great benefit for many things we do with the tractors.
Sounds like you are able to engage the low gear reduction without engaging the front wheels. unable to do this with our pickup. Front wheel drive is in drive position when low 4wheel drive is used.Have only used 4 wheel drive high with the pick up we have now have only had it for several months.
 
David G,
I will avoid using 4 wheel drive for backing up. Thank you for the information. The binding you mentioned definitely occurs when backing with my truck
Chris
 
Another tidbit of info, but not just for backing - if you have a selectable 4wd vehicle, you need to run it in 4wd now and then, both hi and lo. Have seen several posts about how this needs to be done to burn off moisture/condensation in the system, but there's another reason. If the gears never get used, they retain their crisp edges. The more you use a 4wd system, the more the edges will relax and everything starts working together smoothly.
 
put your hand on the bottom of the steering wheel. If you want to go left, move/turn you hand to the left. go right move/turn the wheel to the right.
 
John M,
Another person on the forum mentioned your suggestion to me. I will be able to try in a couple of weeks. We are out of state and will return to where we keep the trailer and tractor. The Picture shows where I drive up the road in front of the truck, turn a hard right then back the trailer. to where it is now. When driving up the road to where truck is parked have to make a sharp turn to the right into oncoming traffic then back up the trailer. Fortunately it is a very rural area so there is not a lot of traffic.

Thank you for the suggestion , hand bottom of steering wheel turn to left to make trailer go left turn wheel to the right to make trailer go right. I use the mirrors and do not rely on the screen center console which is great for backing in to trailer to connect to truck.
 
I don't think anyone mentioned to try to back to your more visable/drivers side. It is much easier to see your trailer on the drivers side so back into driveway ect so you can see. Some times just think about your route so you can back in this way.
 
i'll use either one, depending on where im backing it too, my trucks are older, 80's, which with the front hubs [dana 60 axle] gives me the option of low range 2wd, aint that cool!
 
ericib,

I wish my truck had the option of using 2wd low. It seems that althought my F 150,is a 2016,ford would have added the low feature to two wheel drive only. Sometimes progress really isn't progress.
 
sms,

Thank you for the idea of backing to my more visable drivers side. First time I have heard this. Thanks for the suggestion. I really feel that I am ready to practice backing my trailer successfully thanks to the many thoughtful suggestions from people on the forum such as yourself. Have a good day
Chris
 
Believe it or not, there is a scientific reason that low range is not available in 2 wheel drive. Trucks are built with the same rear power train, (drive shaft, differential, axle shafts), whether for 2 wheel or 4 wheel drive. Shifting to low range doubles, more or less, the torque applied to the drive train. If full torque is applied in 2 wheel drive, there will be loud expensive noises.
Even the original 4wd such as military Jeeps had an interlock on the shifter levers. 4wd had to be pulled before the low range lever could be moved.

Willie
 
(quoted from post at 06:12:37 04/25/17) sms,

Thank you for the idea of backing to my more visable drivers side. First time I have heard this. Thanks for the suggestion. I really feel that I am ready to practice backing my trailer successfully thanks to the many thoughtful suggestions from people on the forum such as yourself. Have a good day
Chris

Yes, there are parts that many folks take for granted and forget about. Another tip I just remembered is, always keep in mind that the pivot point of your trailer will be the center of the wheel on single axle, or centered between wheels on tandem axle.

For semi trailers, their pivot point is at the extreme rear (usually) of the trailer, and the hitch point on the truck is over the rear axles. That allows for some impressive show-off skills from seasoned drivers (of which I'm not). For smaller trailers, the pivot point us usually about 1/3 from the rear end of the trailer, and the hitch point is (for bumper pull) behind the rear axle, which creates a whole new set of geometry to figure out.

It also seems that most people like to place hands low on the steering wheel when backing. I'm the opposite. When I hook up a trailer, some little switch in my pea-brain changes and I back up the trailer without problem, but keeping hands on upper part of steering wheel. I'd suggest trying the more common method first.

I still support that there will be no better teacher than experience. Once you learn to back an empty equipment trailer, go one step further and build those plastic walls that prevent sight across (or through) the trailer. Your brain will figure out the rest.
 
kcm.MN,
Thanks for sharing information with me . I agree experience is an excellent teacher. Have to let you know that my confidence is much better due to information I have received from people such as you. Thank you very much.
I have watched a friend of mine haul our tractors many times with his 10 yard truck and triple axle tilt 50,000 capacity tilt trailer. He has made it look easy when he drives up quickly and backs up swiftly to unload and load our tractors. He has loaded and unloaded our tractors many times in the area where the picture of my truck and trailer are parked. He drives up the road, makes a right angle turn proceeds to a point where his truck and trailer are straight and backs the whole assembly up swiftly.
Have included a picture of the last two tractors he hauled for us. We sold both the TD 6 crawlers last year. $2500 for the 1948 with winch and $1500 for the TD6 without canopy or winch. We still have one TD6 left which is equipped the same as the TD6 on his trailer with the winch. We are able to haul the wheel tractors only. He still hauls the TD6 we have.
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Willie,
Sounds like ford designed my 2016 4 wheel drive correctly. You may remember the old 6 x 6 military trucks. We had a 6 x6 surplus military truck early 1950's
As I remember there was one main gear shift lever and two levers to the right with a plate that made it possible to shift the front wheel drive in gear ohly by shoving the two levers alead. We cut the plate with a torch as we were having trouble with the front wheel drive. Seems we did end up with a lower gear at this point with the tandem axle rear ends.
Chris
 
In all honesty, your thread couldn't have come at a better time for me. I haven't done much with trailers for many years due to a neck injury, but am working on getting back in the game. Has been nice to think back and remember some things that I used to take so much for granted. And, like you, I will need to get out there and practice, practice, practice! There's not a lot of things more embarrassing than having the wife say 14 zillion times to be careful, and then I still back up too far, or too much to one side, or get stuck, or tear up the yard repositioning umpteen times. Seems the softer my skull gets, the harder my head gets! :shock:
 
Kim.MN,
Thanks again ror advice you provided me for backing a trailer. I put a front receiver hitch
on my new F150 pickup. Mainly for backing our boat into our yard. Didn't need a front hitch 40 years ago
Had front hitches on my previous F100 fords.
Very good to visit with You on this thread. Best of luck with your trailer
Chris
 

My 84 model 5 ton had a air shift front axle engagement and a lever for hi - low shifting of the transfer case, I can shift to low range and still operate in two wheel drive.
Most transmissions have a higher geared reverse than the slowest forward gear, some are really fast zf5 and nv4500 come to mind, also most automatics are higher geared in reverse.
As I got into bigger trailers and heavier loads I started having issues with the automatic trans in my previous F-350, my transmission guy advised me to use low range when backing a trailer to help take some of the stress off of the transmission, it worked and also made backing easier.
I use low range in my 6 spd truck when backing the stock trailer up to a loading chute, the truck is much more controllable and I don't have to ride the clutch as much.
I don't have to much trouble backing a trailer although the 20-25 ft google necks I use today turn faster than the 45-53 footers I spend thirty years practicing with.
Worst trouble I ever had backing was a 20 ft container chassis with a 26 ft Peterbilt, once the trailer started turn the truck couldn't catch up, about like backing a 10 ft lawn mower trailer with a crew cab pickup.
As for drive line binding, when turning sharp you should feel some even with out a trailer, but straight or slight turns shouldn't cause binding.
 
Destroked 450
Good information you presented. Wish my truck had the
option to use a lower gear with 2 wheel drive
You have a lot of experience with a variety of trailers
transmissions, and trucks
 
not to be a know it all but before you learn to backup you should learn how to chain things down that is not the way
 
Marloweg,
Anything you can send my way would be appreciated
I looked on you tube for the subject hauling tractors on trailers
You may not be able to see the other binders
Used 5/16 chain around inside of right axle to opposite of trailer Used an overcenter bindet. Did same for left axle to o right side of trailer
Did same for front but used ratchet binders
Used a small chain with over center binder to secure mower
Still wrong? Used a cheater on the over center binders
Tires went down. Please give me an evaluation
 
(quoted from post at 17:57:56 04/26/17) Marloweg,
Anything you can send my way would be appreciated
I looked on you tube for the subject hauling tractors on trailers
You may not be able to see the other binders
Used 5/16 chain around inside of right axle to opposite of trailer Used an overcenter bindet. Did same for left axle to o right side of trailer
Did same for front but used ratchet binders
Used a small chain with over center binder to secure mower
Still wrong? Used a cheater on the over center binders
Tires went down. Please give me an evaluation

You did just fine. Except for posting just one picture. You need to post at least for so that the tie-down police will see all of your chains and binders.
 
(quoted from post at 04:41:22 04/27/17) You did just fine. Except for posting just one picture. You need to post at least for so that the tie-down police will see all of your chains and binders.
Agreed. You didn't come here looking for info on how to tie down a load, and the pics don't supply enough info to take guesses on your tie-down skills.

I just enlarged the pic (until it started getting fuzzy) and it looks like your tractor is securely tied down. From what I see from your photo and from what you wrote in the earlier post, your tractor is secure. The only way I can see your load being any more secure is if you modified the trailer so that you could have a chain pulling with straight-down force, just in the event the trailer and its load should roll over. Having a vertical pull would keep the tires securely to the trailer. However, your (and most other) trailer doesn't allow for such connection points.
 
kcm.MN

Thank you very much for reviewing my tie downs for our tractor. I find that the lever binders are quicker and easier for me to use. I can see that the pipe I use to put a lot of tension on the tie down chains could be dangerous. I wrap the loose end of the chain around the binder handle to prevent it from coming loose. I have noticed that the local connercial hauling company, Ballard Transfer, uses ratchet type binders. All the equipment I see being hauled here in Seattle , track and wheel, is secured with ratchet binders. The local construction companies where I live all use the lever type binders.
Thanks again. I also pull off the road and check the binders.
Chris
 
showcrop,
Thank you so much for reviewing the tie downs I use for securing our tractor. You are correct, I should have posted 4 pictures to show the four tie downs I use. Actually 5 as I additionally tie down the mower

Chris
 
Myself i would use low on my 4x4 , it was a 88 F350 dual wheel rear with a five speed and rev. was geared way to fast in high rage . But i had loc out ft hubs and left them unlocked as it was easier on the ft end . New trucks are geared way to fast in rev. .
 
The tractor vet,

A small turn on the steering wheel to get the trailer moving in the correct direction requires a much larger amount of turn opposite direction with the steering wheel to make the trailer come out of the turn I started with it. Additionally have found by pulling ahead with the truck to straighten out helps then continue backing. I think a lower speed in reverse , as you said, would help.

Would appreciate your thoughts on what I have found helps me back the equipment trailer
Your 350 with manual hubs would be good for a lower speed in reverse by leaving hubs in locked. Chris
 
kcm.MN

Wanted to let you know that my skill in backing the equipment trailer has improved greatly. I just to another member on the forum that I have found a small movement of the wheel to get the trailer moving in the correct direction requires a much larger movement of the steering wheel in the opposite direction to make the trailer come out of the turn a little and continue to turn orrectly around a 90 degree corner Secondly I have found that pulling ahead to straighten things out helps me when backing around a 90 degree corner
Thanks again for your help and would appreciate your thoughts on what I have found to help me back around a 90 degree corner. No problem for me backing the trailer straignt now,
Chris
 

Your waiting to long and letting the trailer get around to far before correcting, or you have a short trailer thats hard to catch once it starts turning.

Having low range for backing is the big advantage, locking the hubs in only helps on soft ground or slick conditions to help prevent wheel spin.
 
Destroked,
The trailer has 16 feet of bed but distance from connection point on truck to front of trailer is short. The trailer I have hired to haul or tractors has a very long distance between connection point on truck to front of trailer. I have tried correcting with small movements of the wheel when making a 90 degree turn. I'm doing this in my yard so have lots of room to practice. Once our trailer starts to make the turn a small movement of the wheel opposite direction fails to make it turn back out of the turn.

Chris I use two wheel drive and the truck is automatic. Doesn't work well to use 4 wheel drive on my truck when making a turn. A field we have has muddy areas and I use 4 wheel drive in these areas.
 
ejensen -- you wrote this:
The trailer I have hired to haul or tractors has a very long distance between connection point on truck to front of trailer.
Are you saying that the ball sticks out from the truck farther than it should? The closer the ball is to the truck, the better the truck can handle weight of the loaded trailer. It's all about leverage.

As for backing 90° (more or less), it's BY FAR easier if you're using your driver mirror to back with (backing from the left side). Trying to back in using the other mirror (from the right) is more difficult as you will not have as much field of view.

As for the trailer not correcting quickly enough and you ending up oversteering, that's what you're practicing to learn. Making a small correction WILL NOT show immediate results, unless you're backing a very short trailer. The longer the trailer, the longer it'll take for a small correction to register. It takes time and practice to learn how much correction and when.

As for pulling forward, that is the best and easiest way to prevent going where you don't want to go. But with practice, you will eventually learn how to back that trailer (if you use that skill regularly) without having to pull forward. If using the same length trailer, you will also learn just how far to back up without running over your target and without being too far away to do any good.

The reason I suggested an empty parking lot is because you can also simply practice backing - as in trying to back your truck and trailer all the way across the parking lot in a straight line. That is a very good exercise in helping to learn how much correction does what to your trailer. If you can back your trailer up at more than a snail's pace for a good length, then you will instinctively better understand how to handle your trailer in real situations.

You said you have a large yard. I don't know what your definition of "large" is, but you can do the same exercise there as well. I've just never had nice, straight reference lines in my yard to use as a learning gauge, so always went to parking lots. [/quote]
 
kcm,MN

Our place is 2 1/4 acres. 660 feet by 165 feet. Mainly level. I have been using the drivers side mirror. I have been practicing pulling in front of our place and backing a 90 degree turn to front of our garage. There is an uphill part when I back the trailer. Trailer has to go uphill and at same time start an arc of 90 degrees. I turn slightly to begin the 90 degree turn. Have found that I have to turn the wheel a lot farther in the opposite direction to keep the trailer making the 90 degree arc correctly. The trailer ball is right tight to the receiver hitch under rear bumper. Distance from front of trailer connection at ball to front of trailer is about 4 feet. A friend of mine in Colorado told me I should of bought a GMC as they back better. Secondly He told me the F in the F150 means forward only. He just plays around. I really appreciate your counsel. Seriously my skill has improved since I first started looking for help on the forum. Thank you for your continued help, Chris

Once the field dries I'll practice backing in the field
 
Destroked450
Your information indicates when I learn to back the trailer correctly a small turn of the steering wheel in the opposite direction should maintain the trailer in correct turning arc for a 90 degree turn
 

Backing 90* off the street into a driveway is the hardest to do, it only takes a small amount of input to start the trailer turning and you adjust that according to how quick you want the trailer to turn.
once the trailer is turning as short as you need it to it takes a lot of input to get the truck to catch up to the trailer and get everything straight, for most people it will take one or two pull ups to get straightened out, so don't beat yourself up if you don't make it on the first try.

My other post was referring to backing straight, if the trailer is getting out of shape your ether waiting to long to correct, or over correcting causing the trailer to go the other way.

I've had days I could back a trailer for miles nonstop, then there where days I couldn't back my a-- up to a toilet with guide rails.
 
Destroked,

I am able to back the trailer straight back with no problems. The 90 degree turn is where I need the practice. I find a small turn of the wheel to get the trailer started into the 90 degree turn then I have to really move the wheel up a couple of times much more movement than when I started the turn ) to get the trailer going correctly . is this what you mean by a lot of input one or two pull ups to get straightened out? If this is correct then I am making progress making 90 degree turns. The other issue is that where I am practicing not only does the trailer have to make a 90 degree turn it has to move up a small hill
Really appreciate your help plus others on the forum
 

In the pic on post 1 it looks like the axles on your trailer are forward a fair amount. The shorter the distance from the hitch to the axles, the harder it is the catch up to when backing around a turn, also truck length effects how fast the truck comes around to catch up with the trailer, reg cab short bed maneuver trailers easiest, crew cab long beds have a hard time maneuvering a short trailer.

I had to back a twenty ft container with a 25 ft truck once, when the trailer started turning the truck couldn't catch up, I bet I pulled up twenty times that day before finally getting that trailer back to the dock.
 
(quoted from post at 20:50:24 05/08/17) I've had days I could back a trailer for miles nonstop, then there where days I couldn't back my a-- up to a toilet with guide rails.
Amen to that! Glad to hear I'm not the only one!! :shock:


Once you start getting the 90° backing figured out, build a wood and black poly sheeting enclosure on the trailer and try learning it all over again. That's where you're going to hone your skills the best. You'll only need the front and both sides; no top or rear to the enclosure. The black will block your view out the rear window pretty much completely, and it will also severely limit the view from your side mirrors. That means you need to know what the truck AND trailer are doing almost without looking. Just keep in mind that if you ever tow an enclosed trailer or haul a load that is sorta like walls, you'll always need to assume that something or someone is going to walk back behind the trailer as you're backing. Keep that fear alive in your head - the life you save may be someone you love dearly.

When backing your trailer now, without walls, try to learn how to look at your surroundings and figure out how to gauge where on the ground you expect the trailer wheels to start to pivot, and how much you need to turn before straightening your wheels in order to not oversteer. Getting used to this while you can see your surroundings (no walls on trailer), the easier it will be to grasp once the walls are on there. And as I said, even if you never plan to ever tow a trailer with walls or that large/bulky a load, it would still be beneficial to practice. I never understood that until we bought our 16' enclosed trailer - I just assumed it would be just like the other. Wrong! There is definitely increased difficulty.

If you get proficient enough, there will be few times you will back a trailer at 90° in the dark and on a slope where you'll have to pull up and get straightened out. But, it will happen. Mr. Murphy will see to it! 8)
 
Little OT but when I started driving truck I was hauling hay with a set of doubles with a friend of mine.
He had a short single axle KW with 28' trailers.
I drove a longer tandem axle pete with 26' trailers.

In a field one day killing time we decided to find out who could back up thier doubles the farthest, I made it 100', he made it 350'
Shorter tractor and longer trailers helped............and he had a couple of years on me
:lol:
 
Dune Country,

Thanks for telling me your experience with shorter tractors and longer trailers. A friend of mine who has hauled crawler tractors for me has a tandem KW with a triple axle 50,000 lb trailer. He is able to make this combination back much easier than my truck and trailer. When I bought my trailer thought it would be easier as my trailer and truck is so much smaller than his. Not so.
I have improved a lot but have a long way to go.He has done equipment hauling for equipment and hauls mainly larger equipment excavotors and large crawlers, rollers
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