Hauling Advice Please (trailer, etc)

(quoted from post at 12:53:36 08/14/15) If you ever buy an M or a 400 or 450 basically anything heavier than an H you will NEED the 10000 lbs trailer. The weight that it is rated for INCLUDES the weight of the trailer itself. Therefore, if the trailer weighs 2000 lbs and the H weighs 5000 lbs you are at 7000lbs. Do yourself a long term favor and get the heavier trailer.

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(quoted from post at 08:14:59 08/19/15) Tractor data shows the minimum weight for the super H at 3875 pounds.

16 foot trailer with 3,500 pound axles if heavy built weighs about 2,500 (have had mine on the scales).

This would make the total weight of trailer and load at 6,345 pounds. That is getting very close to the max load capacity of the trailer.

Doable yes but I never like to get that close.

As I haul tractors and other stuff on a pretty regular basis my suggestion would be to get an 18-20 foot with the 5,000 pound axles allowing the trailer to haul 10K pounds.

Cost is usually not that much difference and you are not maxing out the trailer with your current tractor.

You will find that if you buy a trailer with to light capacity you will regret it and the extra capacity will come in handy at time.

In regards to towing both will tow about the same behind your vehicle and like has been mentioned have a brake controller installed in your vehicle and keep the brakes on the trailer in good working order and you will be fine.

Just be aware that having brakes on trailer does not mean that you can stop on a dime so you must allow for more stopping distance.

Currently I tow a 16 foot with 5,200 pound axles, a 18 foot with 3,500 pound axles and a 18 foot goose neck with 7k axles all with brakes.

I like the goose neck the best as it is easier to turn around in tight spots and I find it easier to chain and boom down the tractors.

One thing to keep in mind that when chaining down tractors (don't like straps) that the booms and chains cannot come out past the rub rail on a goose neck or past the fenders. DOT will ticket you quick if they see that.

I use ratchet booms as I find them easier to use. Others will disagree on the ratchet booms, but I have hauled tractors from MO as far away as NC and CO with no problems.

Just my 2 cents

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(quoted from post at 14:07:52 08/19/15) Showcrop

I must have missed that one. Also varies from state to state from what I have been told by truck drivers.

I am always open to learning. The more we know the better.

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(quoted from post at 12:40:17 08/19/15)

(quoted from post at 08:14:59 08/19/15) Tractor data shows the minimum weight for the super H at 3875 pounds.

16 foot trailer with 3,500 pound axles if heavy built weighs about 2,500 (have had mine on the scales).

This would make the total weight of trailer and load at 6,345 pounds. That is getting very close to the max load capacity of the trailer.

Doable yes but I never like to get that close.

As I haul tractors and other stuff on a pretty regular basis my suggestion would be to get an 18-20 foot with the 5,000 pound axles allowing the trailer to haul 10K pounds.

Cost is usually not that much difference and you are not maxing out the trailer with your current tractor.

You will find that if you buy a trailer with to light capacity you will regret it and the extra capacity will come in handy at time.

In regards to towing both will tow about the same behind your vehicle and like has been mentioned have a brake controller installed in your vehicle and keep the brakes on the trailer in good working order and you will be fine.

Just be aware that having brakes on trailer does not mean that you can stop on a dime so you must allow for more stopping distance.

Currently I tow a 16 foot with 5,200 pound axles, a 18 foot with 3,500 pound axles and a 18 foot goose neck with 7k axles all with brakes.

I like the goose neck the best as it is easier to turn around in tight spots and I find it easier to chain and boom down the tractors.

One thing to keep in mind that when chaining down tractors (don't like straps) that the booms and chains cannot come out past the rub rail on a goose neck or past the fenders. DOT will ticket you quick if they see that.

I use ratchet booms as I find them easier to use. Others will disagree on the ratchet booms, but I have hauled tractors from MO as far away as NC and CO with no problems.

Just my 2 cents

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RB, last time this was discussed, which was very recently there was some good information WRT the rub rail (no tickets)

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