thanks for the ideas

Smalltowner · Jul 15, 2015

thanks for the ideas guys. I'm thinking now the use of a few 2x6 wood planks over the alum plate for heavier loads (which is rare) will be my best and least expensive option instead of re-flooring the whole trailer and adding all that weight and cost. Quality lumber in 16 ft lengths is not cheap, and I already have enough old 16' planks from an old porch that will work.
I pull the rig with a 2012 F150 short base pick-up, trailer brakes not connected but the Ford tow package option which gears down when truck brakes are applied seems to work just great, if I don't get too heavy back there.

vapet · Jul 15, 2015

Why not hookup the brakes? As someone posted awhile back, easy to lose everything you have, let alone kill or injure someone due to faulty equipment.

rbhuntn · Jul 15, 2015

(quoted from post at 10:12:30 07/15/15) Why not hookup the brakes? As someone posted awhile back, easy to lose everything you have, let alone kill or injure someone due to faulty equipment.

Ditto. Breaks on a trailer are more that worth it. Has saved me from a few accidents over the years when some driver decides to cut you off in traffic then suddenly has to slow down for congestion.

Anything with 3500 pound axles or bigger should have breaks on it and controller in the towing vehicle.

I know I don't tow without them anymore and haven't in the last several years even with the 2500HD.

Meangreen · Jul 16, 2015

Get in an accident with the trailer hooked up and they find out the brakes aren't hooked up, your insurance will leave you hanging with all the responsibility. Make sure you know the regulations in your state.

thanks for the ideas

Smalltowner

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vapet

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rbhuntn

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Meangreen

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