Trailer overload

DLMKA

Member
I'm looking at picking up an Oliver 1550 with loader and box blade and transporting about 250 miles. According to tractordata.com an unballasted 1550 operating weight is 7000 lbs. I don't think this one has extra wheel weights or fluid in tires. I have a trailer rated at 7000lbs GVWR. How much risk am I taking pulling this tractor home overloaded by the weight of loader and box blade? Pulling with 2000 F-250 7.3L. Planning on taking it easy and no trying to go 70mph on interstate.
 
Your pickup will work fine, DOT might have an issue with your trailer if you get stopped. Can you get around the scales? I've hauled 9000-10,000lbs on a 14,000lb gvwr, 25' gooseneck trailer and a dodge 1500 pickup with the 5.9 gas for 300 miles and got along fine, did it twice but I'm a farmer and they were grain bins for myself. Also I could get around the scale just east of St.Joseph,MO.
 

So your intent is to load about 9k on a trailer rated to haul 5k????

So you have not enough tires, brakes, hitch, etc.

An accident waiting to happen.
 
As long as there's not a DOT patrolling the 2-laners you should be OK, here in western Iowa they've gotten to hanging around the farm to market paved roads trying to catch overloaded grain trucks. I'd go over a weekend and make sure you have a couple of extra spare tires, even if your tires are good, there always seems to be a blow-out. Take it easy, my top speed was probably 65 and it was a really nice 4-lane divided hi-way. It's up to you which way you go interstate or 2-lane, the 2-laners here are getting so rough that I'm more inclined to take the interstate for a smoother ride. You can scope out where the scales are and if they're open on your way there.
 
(quoted from post at 11:39:14 07/06/15)
So your intent is to load about 9k on a trailer rated to haul 5k????

So you have not enough tires, brakes, hitch, etc.

An accident waiting to happen.

That's why I asked. I can probably borrow a deckover with 14k GVWR. Either way, need to put brake controller in my truck before attempting to pull that much.
 
Your trailer has a 7000lb. GVWR and a 7,000lb. trailer weighs about 2,800lbs. leaving you with 4,200lbs for your load.Your tractor weighs 7,000lbs. plus what ever the loader and box blade weigh. Thats really pushing it for a 3.5 ton trailer. For that distance I would find somebody that would let you rent or use a heavier trailer.
 
(quoted from post at 13:07:09 07/06/15)
(quoted from post at 11:39:14 07/06/15)
So your intent is to load about 9k on a trailer rated to haul 5k????

So you have not enough tires, brakes, hitch, etc.

An accident waiting to happen.

That's why I asked. I can probably borrow a deckover with 14k GVWR. Either way, need to put brake controller in my truck before attempting to pull that much.

Then get the 14k and be safe.
 

What is the tow capacity of your truck ?

If you are pulling a 14K rated trailer - even if it is empty - the tow capacity of your vehicle has to meet the GVWR of the trailer you are towing.
 
Will keep this short & sweet.
How much in cash, property assets, & insurance do you have?
If someone else does something stupid & you have an accident, be prepared to lose everything you own.
WJ
 
(quoted from post at 19:08:12 07/07/15) Will keep this short & sweet.
How much in cash, property assets, & insurance do you have?
If someone else does something stupid & you have an accident, be prepared to lose everything you own.
WJ

According to ford-trucks.com the 1999-2004 F-250 with 5.4L has towing capacity of 13,400lbs. I've got the 7.3L which adds to the curb weight of the truck so it's probably more like 12k lbs. Hitch sticker shows 10k with weight distributing hitch and 5k without, 1000lbs tongue weight. It's mostly flat getting home and I'll probably just cruise interstate @ 60mph and avoid making more stops and starts than I need to.

Appreciate the responses here. Going to talk to the owner of the trailer today to see if I can borrow it again and get a brake controller for my truck (not sure how an F-250 makes it 15 years without having a brake controller installed....)
 
Wife was on jury duty for a case involving a guy who had an accident with a borrowed trailer. Truck owner and the trailer owner both ended up losing. Not trying to be disrespectful to you at all, but you're also putting the trailer owner at risk when you overload his trailer.
 
(quoted from post at 07:18:18 07/09/15) Wife was on jury duty for a case involving a guy who had an accident with a borrowed trailer. Truck owner and the trailer owner both ended up losing. Not trying to be disrespectful to you at all, but you're also putting the trailer owner at risk when you overload his trailer.

I decided long ago not to try the 7000 GVWR trailer. I got approval to borrow 14k trailer which should be more than enough for a 1550 or 1650 with loader. Still trying to find a load distributing hitch to use.
 
If your looking for a 14,000lb. weight distributing hitch there aren't many out there. I have a 14,000 lb. trailer with a 8" I beam frame and the only one that will bolt up to trailer with out a lot of modification is a Equalizer Hitch and they run $600.00 to $700.00.
 
Most loader tractors need rear end ballast to have much traction. Are you sure the tractor does not have fluid in the rear tires, or can you remove the fluid before hauling?
 
(quoted from post at 09:58:51 07/09/15) Most loader tractors need rear end ballast to have much traction. Are you sure the tractor does not have fluid in the rear tires, or can you remove the fluid before hauling?

Been reading how to pump it out. Neither tractor I'm looking at has wheel weights so most likely has CaCl in tires.
 
Just went through a DOT training class last month, and trailer weights were covered,any trailer over 10,000# GVW requires a CDL now.
 
that 7k trailer, if like a car hauler likely only has about 5800# of payload available, give or take a 100# depending on decking and framing.

the tractro alone puts the trailer overweight by the weight of the trailer. the loader itself could be another 1000-1500+# and I'd think on the high side, if it is a loader for a 7000# tractor..

Thus you are likely 3000# + uverlaoded, or 50% + over the payload capacity available.

I would not do it.
 

One word of caution......
previous posts have pointed out that you are close to or beyond max load cap for your trailer. Be that as it may, I would also warn you to use caution loading the tractor if it has wheel ramps.
The overall trailer is rated for 7k, however the beef part of the trailer is the triangle between the axles and hitch. Many of these trailers will bend if the total weight of the tractor is concentrated on the back 25% of the bed. Use jack-stand supports on the corners.

For what it's worth, best trailer I ever had was a CAM 12k tilt bed with a hydraulic damper that was adjustable. You slowly drive up the tilted bed until the point that the bed lowers; then you can engage the locks. Off loading is very simple as well, slow and steady. I hauled a Ford 4600 Diesel with weights and ballast tires; with an 8 foot flail mower or 3pt tandem disk. Very hardy trailers that can actually hold their rating.
 
Went and picked up tractor last week. Borrowed a 14K bumper pull deck-over trailer. It was just long enough to get the tractor with loader on and get 2-3" of drop on the back of the truck. It was dark when we headed out so I stuck to the interstate and kept it between 60 and 65 (70 mph speed limit). There was less stopping and less likelihood of a deer getting in my way on the interstate. The 99 Super-duty with 7.3 pulled it fine. Got 12-13 mpg for the whole trip down unloaded and back loaded.

I have the confidence in the truck/trailer now to go pick up my dad's 720 diesel from my uncle's place in MN if he'll relinquish it.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top