chucksoliver77

Well-known Member
This is the first load for my 2015 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. If it pulls as good as my 2011 I'll be happy. The 11 had 3.73 gears and this one has 3.55. Chuck
a190911.jpg
 
I admit that probably 99% of people will think I'm nuts.
But in my opinion, with such a tiny engine, high speed gears, & heavy load, when you stomp on the gas pedal it will hurry up & sit there.
Ecoboost is made to haul a loaf of bread or a dozen eggs. Maybe swing by the clothing aisle & grab a pair of socks too, but that would be the load limit.
Willie
 
Well Willie you should drive one before you bad mouth it. My 2011 could pull some pretty good hills in 6th with a 9000lb. tractor on that trailer, and you don't have to scream it to do the job. Has 425ft.lbs of torgue at just 2500rpm and 90% of that at 1700. Chuck
 
F-150's are for going shopping and picking the kids up at school. Get yourself an F-350 then you got something.
 
Don't believe he is on the road yet. But I do detect a couple of chains. Just takes one every 10 ft.
 
Looks to me he's got the chains behind the front tires, and chains on the back. If that's not the proper way then I guess myself and a lot of guys I know around here are in the wrong.

Chuck how did your dealer look at your 11 when you traded it in? I've been looking at upgrading to a gooseneck as well and pull it with my 13 f-150 but not sure if I'll take a bigger beating at trade in time or not. A friend of mine pulled his 22ft fifth wheel camper with his f-150 and went he traded the dealer dinged him good stating that it had been pulled harder than they normally are. I told him that shouldn't have made a difference and he should have checked another dealer.
 
Wemedeeres, My dealer treated me good, I didn't need 2 vehicles anymore be cause I recently lost my wife, so I traded my 2011 150 and 2014 Escape and they allowed me what Consumers reports said I should get on trade for both, of course I didn't brag about how much weight I pulled and they didn't ask. When all was said and done it cost me less than $400.00 to do the trade. Chuck
 
I should have asked in my first reply, what type of hitch did you put in? My uncle had a B&W (I think was the name) in his pickup, the main frame mounted to the frame and a hole was drilled in the box fir a ball that could be flipped over to keep the bed floor open to slide things in.

I dont have any intentions of getting a trailer much bigger than what you have, I'm just tired of loading my tractor on my car trailer and then loading my plow on the back sideways to take to plowing bee's.
 
(quoted from post at 22:06:08 05/10/15) I should have asked in my first reply, what type of hitch did you put in? My uncle had a B&W (I think was the name) in his pickup, the main frame mounted to the frame and a hole was drilled in the box fir a ball that could be flipped over to keep the bed floor open to slide things in.

I dont have any intentions of getting a trailer much bigger than what you have, I'm just tired of loading my tractor on my car trailer and then loading my plow on the back sideways to take to plowing bee's.
I used a Draw Tite with the ball you can you can flip over. That was the only one available at the time. B&W is available now but costs quite a bit more. Kaufman trailers will make what ever length you want. Chuck
 
To VicS
"Just takes one every 10 ft"

Wrong.
That is for pallet freight or lumber.
Does not apply to wheeled or track machinery.

To Wemedeeres
"If that's not the proper way then I guess myself and a lot of guys I know around here are in the wrong"

Then maybe you and guys around you should also research and study tie down laws.


Things I see wrong.
Looks to me he is using straps not chains. Not a real problem if he had them pulled in a straight line to the hook point. You can only use straps if you pull in a straight line. You can not let it bunch where it goes around the tire and pull at a angle to the hook on the end of the strap.
But lets throw that out since they may be chains. Hard to tell from the picture.

The one thing that really jumps out and is unmistakably a violation is the implement.
All implements must be lowered to the trailer deck and tied down.
 
(quoted from post at 23:17:23 05/10/15) To VicS
"Just takes one every 10 ft"

Wrong.
That is for pallet freight or lumber.
Does not apply to wheeled or track machinery.

To Wemedeeres
"If that's not the proper way then I guess myself and a lot of guys I know around here are in the wrong"

Then maybe you and guys around you should also research and study tie down laws.


Things I see wrong.
Looks to me he is using straps not chains. Not a real problem if he had them pulled in a straight line to the hook point. You can only use straps if you pull in a straight line. You can not let it bunch where it goes around the tire and pull at a angle to the hook on the end of the strap.
But lets throw that out since they may be chains. Hard to tell from the picture.

The one thing that really jumps out and is unmistakably a violation is the implement.
All implements must be lowered to the trailer deck and tied down.

John if you are going to refer to a quote of mine would you please use the whole thing next time?

I clearly stated that it looked like he had chains on the front of the tractor behind the front wheels as well as chains on the back.

I have ALWAYS hauled my tractors and equipment using a MINIMUM of four chains and four binders/ratchet binders, secured to the tractor and anchored at four corners of my trailer. The guys I run to shows with all do the SAME, we have too much time and money as well as personal pride invested in our tractors and equipment just to fall short on securing our equipment. The tie down requirements are pretty clear in the Federal Motor Carriers Safety Administrations website and it looks to me I clearly over exceed their requirements Part 393.130
 
Like some others, I have to ask if you lower the plow to the trailer bed and tie it down before traveling or do you go down the road like it's pictured? Nice looking rig, 14,000 pound trailer?
 
(reply to post at 09:05:31 05/12/15)
ss55, No I did not lower it down, was only going about a mile to the plow site, when I go further I lower and bind it and yes that is a 14,000lb. rated trailer. Chuck
 
Congrats on the new truck. I am looking for a similar trailer. As
per my thread a few above your's, Kaufman is on the short list.
How long is you trailer? How long have you had it and what's your opinion of it?
 
SGF, The deck on my trailer is 14'X 102". I have had it 6 years. It is a very good trailer and is my second one. They are not over built like some I've looked at. I looked at one that must have weighed a ton more than the Kaufman which means you could end up with less payload when you reach the 14000lb. rating and you will be towing that extra ton all the time. If you buy one pay the extra to get good tires not the cheap foreign ones that came on mine. Good luck, Chuck
 
Are you a proffesional truck driver John? Or a Law enforcement officer? Cuz you sure don't seen professional to me!!!
 
(quoted from post at 16:44:52 05/08/15) This is the first load for my 2015 F150 3.5 Ecoboost. If it pulls as good as my 2011 I'll be happy. The 11 had 3.73 gears and this one has 3.55. Chuck
a190911.jpg
Congratulations. Nice looking truck and trailer. I am new to all of this and have been researching trucks and trailers to haul my 6000 lb tractor. I have been leaning towards the F150 EcoBoost but didn't know if it was enough truck. Thanks to your post that looks like a good solution for me.
 
nope.
the newer f150 with the Ecoboost and the the max tow package is rated at 11000lbs tow
there are 2 other variants one with a 9000lbs rating and then the standard 7200lbs rating
it may have a smaller engine but it has twin turbos and has significantly more hp and torq than the 5.0.
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top