boom rating and chain rating

All,

I am wanting to haul a john deere 4430. Believe the weight is around 12000-13000 lbs. Need to buy some lever binders (boom) and tractor supply had some rated at ~9200 lbs. They also had a ratchet binder rated the same.

Remember reading that a QUANTITY of 3 or 4 binders is needed legally to haul a tractor. I want to use the right number and the right ratings.

Should I have a BINDER rated greater than or equal to the tractor weight?

Also, the binder CHAIN seem to be rated 6600 lbs. Should I find a chain rated greater than or equal to the tractor weight?

Any guidance is appreciated.

Thank You
 
I have lever binders rated at 19,000lbs and bought all but two of them from TSC. The chain your talking about (6,600 lbs.) is a grade 70 and a 3/8 chain and DOT approved. If you put a chain and binder on each corner you will be fine.
 
If you use a cheater bar on binders be careful and never stand in front of them when locking them down or releasing them.
 
The chain and binders you mentioned are fine. You need to have (4) hook points since its over 10,000 lbs. Two in the front and two in the rear.
 
Save yourself headaches and buy the ratchet binder. After you take the cheater pipe to the teeth you'll wish you bought them. It only took a 3" gash over my right eye when the pin on the binder broke and blew apart. When I gathered myself I went home and took a torch to every one I had and bought ratchets.
 
You need 4 chains and 4 binders for that size tractor. 1 on each corner.

For the 2 on the rear you need to hold 0.8g; that's 80% of the weight to stop movement during deceleration.
On the front and sides you need to hold 0.5g 50% of the load to stop movement during acceleration and acceleration in a lateral direction.

Since most people only carry one size chain and binder we will figure the 80% side.

For your tractor that would be....
13,000 x .8 = 10,400
Since you have 2 chains on the back we divide by 2.
10,400 / 2 = 5200

So your chains and binders must have a working load limit of 5200 lbs and MUST be marked to say this. If they are not marked; or the marking wears off; it will not matter what they are rated for as they will automatically be down graded to grade 30.
So your grade 3/8 grade 70 chain that normally has a working load limit of 6600 lbs would be down graded to 2650 lbs if not marked.
 
Chuck, chain it like you can't afford to lose it, chains and
binders are a lot cheaper than a new tractor or a law suit.
I do four chains and ratchet binders on any tractor that goes
on my trailer, and the Feds want another chain on any
implement or bucket on the machine.it only takes a few
minutes to do it right, I like my toys, I chain them accordingly!
Myself, I never buy less than 3/8 grade 70 chain and 9,200 lb
binders
 
Well the other posters have it on capacity. You need to have good chains and binders.

I would not call any type of lever binder "GOOD". They are dangerous to use correctly. Cheater pipes or special boom tools are needed and still you can get hurt.

The trouble with lever type binders is on a chain you only can adjust the tension by moving the hook one entire link. You will find you some times need a 1/2 link to be the correct tightness. In some places you can loop one end and then get the half links you need.

When I was working at the dealership we closely inspected any equipment delivered with lever type binders for chain damage. Many driver wanted to be Superman and use long cheater pipes. They then are actually over tightening the chains and damaging the equipment.

Equipment on rubber tires is more forgiving as the tires can flex to make getting the correct tightness easier.

Just buy a good ratchet type binder and keep it lubricated so it turns easy. Then you can get the correct tightness easier while being much safer.
 
For convenience and flexibility I'd go with 5/16 g70
chains (they are a lot lighter) and get a couple
more chains and 6600 pound binders. They are easier
to handle and throwing a fifth one on to make up for
the lower working load limit is no big deal.

6600×3=13200
4700×3=14100

But that's just me.
 
The capacity ratings on binders and chains are
"Single lifting capacity" meaning what they
will lift by themselves. But when used together
with other chains and binders they share the
load being chained down. The share may not be
equal on each chain but each chain will have
less load on them but their maximum capacity
does not change for each chain and binder. Some
chains are meant for holding loads on trailers
and cannot be used for lifting or hoisting and
those made for hoisting cannot be used for
holding loads on a trailer. It's the way they
are rated. Hope this makes sense.
Chains
 
Grade 30 chain is the lowest grade chain and commonly known as proof coil chain. Next grade up is grade 43 which is used for towing,tying down loads & binding loads. Your next grade is grade 70 which is classified as perfect for transporting loads & binding as being 60% stronger than grade 30. Your grades 80, 100, and 120 are aproved for lifting and also used to bind air cargo loads on planes.
 
The only chains and binder you need IHOP is 5/16ths G70 chains and binder and the GOOD binders would have a rating of 10000 LBS each and myself i prefer the ratchet binder over the snap ones but that is me as you will never have a cheater pipe slip off and come back and lay you out and you can get a better tightness , yes they take a little longer to tie down a load with BUT the load stays when done correctly . On my Goose neck i carried 14 5/16x24 footer and 14 binders and on the semi you don't want to know how many i carried but on that one i had some 5/16ths and some 3/8ths and some 1/2 inch . This was due to the weight of some loads as sometimes i was over 200000 and a couple of 300000 lb. loads . One thing to keep in mind is that IF that load wants to come OFF that trailer it is coming off and a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link. I have even had 1/2 inch chain break . Running down the road and hit a bump and hear a chain break and watch the binder go flying . This happens due to flex in the trailer that causes over stressing of one or more chains . On larger tractors even though the LAW SAYS this i will put the four like your suppose to then ADD TWO more . I had chains break while hauling a new Gradeall and it almost came off the trailer in a panic stop and there were 8 chains on that load one broke first and then the second one snapped . Had a tire press move on me taking four chains due to the GOOFFY idea of a bright engineer that decided that they would put down plastic under the base of the press and OIL it so there would be NO RUST on the base when it arrived to the plant in two days . Told them that was NOT a good idea and there were 12 chains on that load , i had to limp it back to the plant so they could lift it and reset it as i was only fifteen miles from the starting point .
 
I am amazed at the responses to this thread. About everyone actually had some idea what they were talking about. I have hauled machinery about half my life. Tractor vet really has it nailed. Usually you have responses from people who have no idea what is going on. One day in the past week somebody asked about the operation of the PTO on a John Deere 60. They were told to push the clutch pedal down halfway to stop the tractor and all the way to stop the PTO. I have never seen a 60 with a foot clutch.
 
I like the 3/8 G70 with heavy binders and one on each corner of tractor. I have been to many tractor shows and pulls and have seen guys use only one 5/16 on front and one 5/16 on back of tractor and they are not G 43 or G 70 chain but just old log chains. It scares me to think if they had to bring truck trailer to a hard stop they could end up with tractor in cab with them or worse come off and hit somebody inocent.
 
Nothing wrong with your 3/8 just a little over kill for a tractor . what a lot of people never heard about is the 60% hold back so yea 4 chains are good BUT ya still need 60% hold back so that IF you are involved in a forward crash those TWO chains you have on the back will NOT hold so really ya need to ADD one more or two or three or four to make your 60% You learn these LITTLE things when you haul the big stuff and you have that piece of paper telling you it is OK to haul that load that weighs more then the total gross and you have people looking you over before you make the move . Just set 287900 lbs on the deck and try and figure out how to hold that on there.
 
The grade 70 in 3/8 is fine. I would use 2 chains with the binder such it works as 4, and let the slack swing in the middle. I have both snap and ratchet binders. Some times there just is not enough room, for a ratchet binder to be worked in the space allowed. That is where the snap binder will fit the bill. I will use 2 snaps on the front end then use 2 ratchets on the back to finish up with. Snap the front ones first then tighten the back ones. This way you don't have to over tighten your snaps and don't need a pipe. Also if you hook the chain back to itself, you can then get a half a link by moving the hook for adjustment.
 
New to this so bear with me. Was reading the posts on chain and binders just to throw a bit of info from an old hi wide and heavy hauler noticed that everyone had good recommendations on chain size and type my preference was ratchet binders only and 3/8 chain min carried enough chain and binders to overload a couple of p/u's . My thing is to have the proper clevises and other attachment devices to prevent damage to the equipment and provide a good secure tie-down point on the equipment also need to bridge the load so that the truck and trailer is loaded evenly and last and most important insure that you are hooking to solid hook points on the trailer do not use the rub rails ever
 

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