Box Tubing Trailer

1 Dollar

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How would you go about straightening up the rear of this trailer? Frame is 2"x8" box. It is a 24' 12k trailer.

The 3" C channel is for a straight reference. It drops about 1.25" on each side right behind the axles.

Thanks
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I would think that would be an acceptable tolerance. You may try hearing the longest arc and allowing to shrink but may cause other problems. The tube should have a minimal thickness of .125
 
is it bent after the fender brace? or under it?
frame shop maybe?? could cut bent piece out and
weld in new , how much time and money do you want
to throw at it? I would be tempted to leave it.
 
This is not going to be an easy fix. You might
take it to a frame shop and get it pulled back
straight, but that won't prevent it from happening
again.

If I were going to straighten it with what I have
to work with...

I would remove the fenders and 3 more of the cross
members, grind away all remaining welds from the
fenders and cross members. Then make a series of
cuts about half way down the box tubing with a
plasma torch, sawzall, or grinder (not torched)
about every 12 to 18 inches or so, on each side of
the bend, probably about 8 cuts per side, v the
cuts with a grinder. Jack up the trailer from the
rear and weld the top of the cuts. Don't tack it,
weld it straight across, weld it hot. This should
draw the frame back to straight. Continue to weld
the sides of the cuts and grind smooth. Then plate
the inside or outside, or both, with 3/8 x 8" flat
plates. This will pull everything straight if need
be.

Lots of work, but a better trailer when finished.
 
It seems to be bowed even. I wouldn't be worried
about a little droop. Might lay a 3/8 X 8 inch flat
steel against it. Can buy cold rolled if you order
it where I live. Southern Il. I would carry some
blocks to put under it so you won't bow it anymore.
I'm sure this happened loading something over the
gross of the trailer.
 
This trailer frame is just inadequate for that
length. You can straighten it by the heating method
that was given over on tractor talk. It's bent
because it's just too long behind the wheels. If
you straiten it cold it will just bend again. You
could do the cut and weld method too, but I don't
think that even plating it will stop it from
bending again. If you get it straight and cut off a
couple feet from the back you will be ok.
 
That's a former camper? Think about the weight distribution of a camper. Are you going to load equipment on that? At it's current length I would say that isn't a good idea. I would shorten it but even with that a box tubing trailer like that scares me.
I had one. Didn't even want my H on it. I was sure the frame wouldn't hold.
 
I think I would move the front axle to the rear axle hangers then put on new hangers for the rear axle. let it go, loaded arched up trailer will look flat Im using a fifthwheel camper frame as my hay trailer I installed heavier cross members and floored it with what we call grating its 1/4 x 1inch flatbar spaced every inch with 1/4 rod
 
I decided against the box tubing trailer because I couldn't definitely say without any reasonable doubt that it wouldn't break. Didn't want to find out the hard way with my tractor in pieces all over the road and possibly someone hurt or killed. So I got a trailer that was intended for the job.
 
(quoted from post at 05:40:30 03/09/14) That's a former camper? Think about the weight distribution of a camper. Are you going to load equipment on that? At it's current length I would say that isn't a good idea. I would shorten it but even with that a box tubing trailer like that scares me.
I had one. Didn't even want my H on it. I was sure the frame wouldn't hold.

It is a factory made 2003 model year 12k trailer. It is pretty long for a 12k but it hauls well. All of this "damage" was done by previous owners. Was owned by a concrete/rock company so I know it has been used hard. I used it in the fall and a bit this winter, now I'm doing some repairs to get some longevity out of it.
 
If it is equal why would you worry about it ?
It is just that much closer to the ground for loading.
 
Well I ended up cutting off the rear bumper to change up my ramp system so now I have two independent frame tubes to work with. Gonna try heating the top side down in a triangle shape and see what we can get done. May put a bottle jack with a little pressure under the end for some extra encouragement.
 

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