All this can be found if you look around the DTR forums.
1)make sure you are getting full throttle travel at the pump. The throttle cable and bell crank can get loose/stretch and not give you full travel at the pump lever. The bell crank isn't needed on a manual but they put it on for commonality between the manuals and automatics.
2)366 governor spring. Stock RPM is limited to about 2700 where it defuels rapidly. The 366 will take you to 3200. Guys say they get better fuel mileage even with the higher RPM capability.
3)M&H timing spacer. Goes on under the KSB on the side of the pump. It gives you more timing at the top end for more power on the same fuel, without giving up anything on the bottom as you would by bumping the pump timing. 4)powerstroke intercooler. I'm not sure for which years but there is one that fits fairly well behind the bumper. 5)BHAF (big honkin air filter)
6)fuel pressure guage and use parts for a second-gen (94-98) piston lift pump to mod the first-gen piston lift pump for more flow at the lower pressure required by the VE.
These engines usually were a little hotter than their ratings. Diesel Power Magazine's "project rust bucket" was put on the dyno for a baseline and was putting 170 HP to the wheels with 20% convertor slippage.
Non-intercooled trucks had larger injectors and higher-compression pistons than the intercooled trucks.
Non-intrcooled automatics came with the 727 3-speed and Dana 70U (70 Utility) AKA Dana71 rear-end housing with 3.07 gears. Manuals and intercooled automatic trucks came with the 518 overdrive and Dana 70 rear-end. Front 4X4 axles were all Dana 60 with front GAWR of 4,000#. Dana 70U with the 3.07's were available in the intercooled manual trucks.
Hamilton and Colt make cams that lower the RPM at peak torque as well.
Get your lights off the headlight switch and on relays. They have been known to burn trucks up, especially pulling a trailer with a lot of lights on it.
Go look around you can find all this and more