Best Oil For Outdoor Wood Project?

1370rod

Well-known Member
I am making several wood projects out of rough ash I milled several years ago. My wife prefers I do not paint them and suggested I oil treat them. Thanks for ideas, Rod.
 
I like boiled linseed oil too, but a coworker said he used it on a redwood patio table and chairs.

Everywhere it was in the sun it blistered and peeled and made a big mess.

Now I'm spooked, maybe it was something about the redwood?
 
I second tung oil. It was originally used to finish the hulls of boats. Use 100% tung oil though. Tung oil finish is something completely different. When you apply it keep adding tung oil until it just won't accept anymore and wipe off the excess. Tung oil is a very slow drying finish. If the weather is cold where you are it might take 10 days for a coat to dry. The best way to tell if the tung oil is dry is to briskly rub the finish with a clean dry cloth and see if the smell rubs off on the rag. When there is no smell it's ready for another coat. Lightly sand the finish with 220 or finer grit paper until it is smooth and apply another coat and let it sit for a few minutes and wipe off the excess and let dry. In most cases that should be enough. If it's going to get wet a lot or appears to have dead dry spots on it you might want to give it another coat.
 
I do like tung oil, as well as boiled linseed oil. If the finish was flaking on a piece of redwood I
would be inclined to suspect it was varnish I like to use a bit of lacquer thinner as a reducer
maybe ten to fifteen percent. Makes it penetrate better and dries a bit faster.
Have a great new year.
 
thats odd, it soaks right into the wood so wonder how that can happen. unless he applied it over some other finish?
 
I don't know if this product is available in the US .
https://www.qtf.com.au/
A locally developed product that withstands high and low temperatures and extreme UV levels . It was originally formulated for use on ski lodges .
The best part is that as well as being long lasting and resistant to the black mold that can affect linseed only finishes is that a new coat self amalgamates with the old .
After a few years all that's necessary is a good clean before recoating . No sanding or stripping needed . The new coat dissolves the old and creates an even homogeneous layer .
I use it as deck finish , I'll never use a product other than this again .

This post was edited by Charles in Aus. on 01/01/2022 at 05:49 pm.
 
On rough unplanned wood I use varnish to reduce the slivers coming off the wood. Spar varnish for outside projects.
 
old timer taught me to use 50-50 boiled linseed oil and turpentine on boat decks and hulls---lasted very well on the teak wood on my boat
 
I have found boiled linseed oil likes to darken in weather , especially in shade. Ash is not a good outdoor wood, but I have found something called Woodlife Classic Outdoor Wood Preservative works very good on my projects.
 
Are you going for appearance or are you just hoping to preserve the wood a bit? Boiled linseed oil will help preserve wood; raw linseed oil is even better but will attract dirt. But if you want a nice stained appearance, I suggest using Penofin. That's what I've used on our treated pine deck; unlike many outdoor finishes it penetrates the wood and will not peel.
 
Take a scrap piece of wood and apply used 5w30 motor oil. My implement trailer needed 5 gallons first coat. It soaked in, not oily feeling.
Second coat got darker 80w90 used gear lub.

Personally the darker used motor oil looks better.

<img src=https://www.yesterdaystractors.com/cvphotos/cvphoto112688.jpg
 
I used to do machinery repair while setting on my trailers. That ment gear box losing oil or grease on floor of trailer. Where ever that happened always left a slick spot that never dissapered so NO OIL ever for me. It never soakes in and leaves the wood nice.
 
(quoted from post at 19:18:10 01/01/22) I am making several wood projects out of rough ash I milled several years ago. My wife prefers I do not paint them and suggested I oil treat them. Thanks for ideas, Rod.

Ash doesn't last long in the weather IME. If it's in contact with the ground you might get 2-3 years tops, likely less.
 
I had a friend give me beautiful oak to use as a floor on a wagon I rebuilt. He ran it through a planner and I routered the edges, stained it and put 4 coats of Spar varnish on it. Wagon is beautiful, but to pretty to haul anything on. Planned on taking kids from church on Hay rides and things like that, but my wife says I will be making them take off belt buckles and shoes to keep from messing up the floor. LOL lots of work but is beautiful, all of this to agree with the Spar varnish
 

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