My flat screen tv is dark!

guido

Well-known Member
Hello,

Sound works, goes on and off with the remote, no video. Red power light blinks 5 to 6 times when I turn it on. Looking for parts and no luck! 60" Samsung un60h7150afxza about 3 years old. I think that number is all its needed to get the parts. So far I need the t-com board. There is no back light, it's either the power supply or the led's. The power supply is a lot easier to replace. Will check that tomorrow,

Guido.
 
Save yourself a lot of headache. Today's TV's are not repairable. I had one that did that and I found a repair shop but the guy wanted more to just look at the TV than a new TV cost. Need to go TV shopping.
 
We just replaced our 3 year old Samsung 46"
Model: UN46EH5000FXZA
Ours had back light but video would quit every 2 minutes then return. there was only 2 boards, T-com board & power supply board,
Found a T-com board for $14 on ebay so ordered it, no change, sent back, other board was over $100!!!
We bought a new Sayno 50" for less than we paid for the Samsung & so far it's working great!
Saw on internet where several people complaining about Samsung not lasting longer than 3 years!!!!
 
Hello Stephen Newell,

Yes I know, but I like to thinker. Back light is not the only issue, it went out the second time I was checking the power supply,

Guido.
 
Got the same TV settin in the spare room with the same problem. Had audio but no picture. Youtub it,easy fix.Aint no such thing as easy fix electronics and me.Went back to the mom and pop I bought it from and discussed getting it fix. Well it might need one or both boards and then it might have a lamp broke. Bought a new one. End of story.
 
I just went through that with a 2 year old Samsung, I think...

Got on Youtube, did some diagnosis,narrowed it down to a few possibilities.

Went on Ebay, ordered used parts from a "broken screen" working TV.

Put them in...

Nothing.

Ended up wasting $60 and a weeks wait for parts.

Never again!
 
Hello Bob Harvey,

Yep, the not so smart TV's were more durable. I have a 32" Panasonic 14 years old, still working as a game tv.
I have a 42" LG I am using now,works just fine, six or seven years old. The 60" replaced the 42" what a joke! Oh I forgot, made in Mexico,

Guido.
 
Guido, I think the beeps mean something. Just like some computers do a start up test, the TV or some TVs do one too. I had a list of them somewhere but haven't seen it for a couple of years. All I remember is that one beep means everything is ok.
 
50 years ago I had a chance to be a TV repairman, glad I did not do it. The TV repairman went the way of the milkman.
 
Hello John D Smith,

I think so too. Just like reading flash codes. I need to find out if that is the case. I will check the power supply voltage to the back light, if present is LED TIME at Least,

Guido.
 

You might try shopjimmy.com
At a glance they show several boards but are not in stock at this time, that's using your number.
The T-con board number is BN95-01337A for your model number if it matches the sticker number.
$59.95 + shipping when in stock, not bad.

I used them quite a bit when I had a vizio piece of junk. The last time it died, I left it dead and still have a main board I'll never use because I will never have another Vizio. Their own techs will tell you they are not repairable... and by them they are not.
I was never so happy to see a tv go to the junkyard.
 
Hello fxit,

I called shopjimmy no luck! They suggested EBay and Amazon same luck. Thanks for
the part# I will see if it is the one for my unit,

Guido.
 
Well sir, had you gone that route, you would appreciate just how far Color TV has come. I stand in front of my 55" frequently and just marvel at what I'm seeing. Sometimes I just get caught up in the picture and feel like I'm there, part of what's going on.

I used to moonlight as a TV repair guy and converging the old RCA tri-gun monsters was a futile task....you always had a blue, green or red shadow on a white shirt somewhere on the screen. Every time mommy ran the vacuum cleaner by the thing the "purity"...you know those gorgeous perfectly uniform red screens on State Farm Insurance commercials, would have a blue or greenish blob somewhere on the raster. I used to keep a "degaussing coil" handy around the house and the service guys always brought one into the house when returning a set to the customer.....just moving the set around would cause magnetic lines of flux to change and affect the convergence.....which was magnetically created sweep called "rasters".

Then there was the high voltage problems (6BK4 shunt regular I think I remember the tube number in RCA chassis) and the electrolytic capacitors that would start leaking producing 2 grey "hum" bars rolling through the screen and on and on. You get it setup as best you can in the shop and when the service guy gets it to the customer's house it's turned N-S rather than E-W the way it was on your work bench and the guy spends a couple of hours getting it setup to suit the customer, or brings it back in futility as he can't get it set right to suit them.

Then there were the dirty tuners. For those with dots and wipers you had to pull them out and use a pencil eraser to clean things up. On the wafer switches about all you could do would be to squirt some "tuner cleaner" on the contacts and rotate the channel selector numerous times.

Great sport those days..................
 
Hello Texasmark1

And...........you could go to radio shack and test and buy all the tubes you needed. Just sta away fro the old flyback?

Guido.
 
Hello Charles in AUS,

I am not that lucky! No cmos battery in the board. It would have been an easy fix,


Guido.
 
Hello,

I unplugged the t-com board,

Guido.
a266976.jpg
 
Take a magnifying glass and look extremely close and compare like devices of every tiny part inside.
If you can solder you might be able to repair it yourself.

I repaired my first flat panel TV 5 years ago. At the office I saw the TV sitting in a corner where everything there go into the dumpster. I brought it home and took it apart. Not knowing what I was looking for, I did what I just advised you to do. I studied the motherboards and found one Capacitor that looked different than similar capacitors on the boards.
I went online and found a set of like 6 CAPS for $1. I de-soldered the bad cap and replaced it and the TV works again.
My time was well spent and the cost of the single CAP was $.18.

Since then I have repaired over a dozen TV and monitors from friends and family.

Todays, the repair shops replaces the entire board if the TV or Monitor is under warranty. Most shops do not take in out of warranty TVs.

Only 1 TV I have found to be a tough repair, because more than one CAP plus SMDs are bad. I have not given up on it yet. Time is my issue now. When I take something apart I put it back together to order parts until they arrive.
I cannot open up something and leave the screws and parts divided, I put it back together.
 
Hello bishopNLoisiana,

This board has surface mounted components. I did not give a close look at the board, because voltage dropped to .125 volts. When I unplugged the board, the back light came on, and the power supply voltage at the ribbon we a 3.2 volts on four pins, other two are grounds. I may heat the board for giggles, but I found a board for it. So it's all back together until parts will come,
Guido.
 
And maybe you had to do a "pincushion" too!!!!!!!!!!! I'm glad I didn't go to 8-track or Beta-max repair school too..............................................gtm
 
One day I was sitting on the stool behind a set with high voltage problems. Had the long shank ?" red handled nut driver in my hand and saw that the "aquadag" boot wasn't properly position.....getting some corona off the connection. So before I realized what I was doing, i just reached up to give it a push to reseat it.

I didn't pay attention to the fact that the tv was running at the time. Was 25 kv on those sets.....my first and last time for that stupid stunt.
 
Guido...with power disconnected. disconnect the cable at the power supply side that runs between the power supply and main pcb. Plug the unit in and see if backlights light up. If no then you have a bad power supply, If yes you have a defective main board. The Power supply part numbers start with a BN44-XXXXX and the Main BN94-XXXXX.

r/

Pete in NC
 
Hello Texasmark1,

Oh yea, it will- did get your attention. My hair would stand up on my working arm, sort of like an a!arm...HE. HE.

Guido.
 
Hello Pete,

No time today, but I will try. I disconnected the t'com board and the back light came on.Voltage at the power supply goes to 3.2 volts, I measured .125 at the board while it was plugged in. Voltage at the main board is the same as the power supply. That is why I suspect the t-com board,
GUIDO.
 
Guido.. I do not see where I can attach a file on the email assistant on YTMAG? Never had to upload anything on here but pictures. Can it be done?

r/

pete
 
Used to connect hv lead to fellow workers steel legged chair! Seen hv climb to 36 kv. Once in a while would take neck off CRT. Holdown cct not doing it's thing. In old days used to service average 5 set a day,now 2 every 6 months. Times have changed. From b/w,tube sets,record players,8 tracks to cassette, beta to vhs did them all.
 
Hello pete_5959,

Click on the send email and fill in the box and hit send. When I reply you will have my email. You can then send me an email with the attached file,

Guido.
 

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