Stumped! Clothes Dryer not working!

No Heat! Replaced what appeared to be a blackened heating element, & started it up, & again no heat!!! Its a 15 year old Kenmore with manual controls that has never had anything done to it till today! Any ideas?
 
make sure you are getting 220 at the plug, they will run but not heat on 110. I had a loose wire in a junction box cause that to happen.
 
I had a door switch go bad and then it was a temp sensor/igniter that turned on the gas. Had the old girl for so many years felt it was time to get a new one...worrying about potential fire problems with lint and all too. Good choice.

Washer was in the same situation, things were starting to fail. Got a new one of them too. I'm still not used to the sounds it makes. They don't wash clothes like they used to. Seems to be ultrasonic vibrations now, like the little US cleaners for jewelry. Crazy, but cheap soap and cold water and clothes come out just fine....on the grease spots, a little squirt of Shout on the spot before tossing in does the trick. The lid locks down once you start the cycle and it won't let you in to and something you forgot. Won't let you peek inside and see what's happening.
 
Besides the switches and voltage, always clean the lint screen before starting other diagnostics. Is the vent clear too? If you have a VOM meter, I would compare the resistance of the new and the old heating elements, to verify if the old element was bad or is still good. Then start checking voltage at the switches and connections.

Often a good used dryer can be found for less than the cost of a service call. Check Craigs List, (or Facebook?)
 
There are multiple safety switches on a dryer. There should be a schematic either stuck inside the cover or folded inside the top enclosure.

Keep in mind you are checking 220v, always check line to line, not line to neutral/ground.

Don't give up, those were good, simple dryers. Better than the new ones.
 
Everyone here is guessing; is there a schematic on the back cover, if so look at that, otherwise look online?
 
Break out your multimeter and track it down. Most dryers are simple to troubleshoot.

There's probably a thermal fuse that will blow if there's a restriction in the outlet vent. If it's bad, be sure and check for a plugged vent.
 
it is the heat overload protector. Take a meter and check for continuity over the switch. If no continuity take it out and throw on floor. Check continuity and put back in. If you don't believe me look up dryer fix on youtube.
 
you do not need a meter to check the heating element.
Disconnect wires from dryer.
Put 120v into the element, hover hand over the element to detect heat. They are really no different than an old light bulb, you just can't see the element, but if it is good it will make heat even on 120v.
 
To get power to heating elements, several switches must close, timer, fan motoer centrifugal switch, operating thermostat, high limit switch, non-resttable over temperature switch, maybe more. Verify all in the paths.
 
I'll second and third on what a couple of others said regarding the thermal fuse.
They are known to fail for a couple of reasons: like another mentioned, a clogged vent; and/or running the temp on "high" for too long a cycle or with too few items in dryer. (The "medium" or lower settings are better.)
It's usually located in back of the dryer, either beneath the rear panel, or it might have an access door (not sure).
On my 22 year old Whirlpool I had to remove the entire rear panel...wasn't difficult.
You may have even seen it when you changed out the heat element.
One other possibility might be the heat selector switch.
And one other possibility might me the circuit breaker in your main electrical panel.
In any event, before replacing anything else, test for voltage starting at the dryer outlet, then work inwards.
 
I don't know but it makes really funny noises going through it's routine. Mine is a year old or thereabouts and I still haven't adjusted to the funny noises....I hear a funny noise and wonder what's that?
 
Flip the circuit breaker to off and then re set it. Check to see if the heat will work. More than one dryer has been scrapped because of one half on the 220 breaker needed to be reset.
 
If you have to disassemble the dryer, consider checking the condition of the belt and changing the plastic pads that the drum rotates on. Those are easy to replace while it is apart.
 
(quoted from post at 06:08:52 05/06/18) Flip the circuit breaker to off and then re set it. Check to see if the heat will work. More than one dryer has been scrapped because of one half on the 220 breaker needed to be reset.

Turn off the main. Pull the breaker.

Closely inspect the load center where it makes contact ( the breaker plugs into). If it is burnt or blackend. Clean it with a file or sandpaper and install a new breaker using die-electric grease on the wire and contact points.

Have saw many bad 220 breakers where one side had burnt a leg on the load center and would arc when you lightly jiggled them. The last one was in a 30 year old box of a lady who was replacing a 5 year old stove that " stopped working". She did not like it when she found out she wasted $800 for a new stove due to a $20 breaker.
 

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