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I got the chuck off

S

SDE

Well-known Member
I made a band clamp for the largest pulley.
It slipped when I tried to remove the chuck.
I put an inner tube under the clamp and it sill slipped.
I made a second band clamp for the next smaller pulley.
I had two tack welds holding a nut on a 1" bolt, which was in the chuck jaws.
With a 4 ft pipe on a 3/4 inch breaker bar, the welds broke.
I welded the nut much better the second time.
Both clamps still slipped.
I engaged the back gear and it came loose.
Yes, I could have engaged the back gear first and MAYBE not have suffered any damage, but I had a bad feeling about doing it that way, and when I ignore that VOICE, I usually suffer the consequences for it.
TY everyone
SDE
 
Glad you got it. One way to get it on too tight is have the chuck started on the threads, then turn on the lathe (the inertia of rest of the chuck slamming against the taper)
 
Just a tiny bit to the side. Boy o boy can I warn you about that slam tight fit stuff. On the Briggs and Stratton twin V engines I had to pull the flywheel. Putting it back was a HUGE problem. They have that williams washer on there. If you take things apart they do not always have enough spring shape left to tighten things correctly. Also never tigten that flywheel nut with an air gun. It WILL Shear the aluminum key. Almost burned a motor to the ground because of a partially sheared key. Went through three keys before I learned to jam the wheel and then use a tourqe wrench. The lessons we learn !!
 
GOOD for you!

You posted here for advice, and when you finally listened to the advice you got you got'er done.

There's GOT to be a lesson in that (SOMEWHERE)!
 
My father did that with a 9 inch Milwaukee grinder, he started the wheel on the threads and hit the trigger! We got the wheel off but had to buy a new internal part in the gearbox.
 
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