Some need an idiot light in there. The altinator light in the dashbord of a car is needed to tell the altinator to excite itself. Had to add the idiot light when I switched over the two tractors or else you had to rev them up. Light works much better. Also smaller pulley if you can but most times the light will fixer up. See what the other guys say.
 
Most alternators need to spin at least 1500 RPM to charge. That has nothing to do with getting exciter current. Most alternators get exciter current as soon as the ignition is turned on. Note I am not talking about Delco SI series that have self-excite regulators swapped in.
 
That's a more common complaint on a "one wire" versus the so called "three wire" units in which case you supply initial excitation coming from the battery. Without the external source the alternator has to spin enough to produce its own excitation.

John T
 
Some you do, and some you don't. Some engines will start at a low idle and you need to bump it a little to get the alternator going. I suppose the alternator/crankshaft speed ratio is not a constant on all machines.

I have a little 3 cyl diesel engine I bought about a year and a half ago. I discovered I had to wind it wide open to get it to charge. Last winter I put it in the shop to fix it. I found lots of grease/crud in the alternator. Then corrosion under that! I got a new alternator, but it wouldn't work. Took it and had it tested. It wasn't getting excited. Turned out a diode, looking just like a mini fuse, was missing from the fuse panel. So how was the old alternator working at all? I assume vibration and some wild voltage from the wide open throttle, with all that crud, let the alternator excite itself. Mystery?
 
I am really glad that I don't have the alternator issues that many of you have. Almost every tractor I have ever bought to keep (or fix and sell), I converted to one wire alternator. All start charging at low rpm and none pull the battery down if left connected. One thing that probably many do not address is wiring. On most any tractor I convert, the first thing I do is strip every wire off it and start over. I solder every connection and cover with heat shrink tubing. It's a little more trouble and expense up front, but the dependability is priceless to me. Just my $.02.
 
IH used a 25 ohm resistor in excite circuit on the larger frame 66 series diesel tractors when they switched to the internal regulator 10 SI delco alternator. Soon after, they offered a 10 ohm resistor if customer complained about having to rev engine too high to start charging. They also used a separate wire to voltage sensing number two terminal direct back to main battery cable at starter for better voltage regulation than running to out put lead at alternator.
 
I've had the same experience with 1 wire alternators all (8 different tractors) start charging as soon as the tractors start and work great.Ever notice those that go on and on about the why
the one wire alternators don't work are people that don't use them? I get mine from DB Electric for about $60 for a 62 amp and they all have done well.
 
Hello John T,

You are right about the spinning of the alternator. I asked a GM factory rep what was the speed ratio, between a 1 wire alternator and the engine speed. He promptly answered: 2 5/8 faster then the engine speed. That was for a class8 truck application. Can't be that much different for other applications. In the case of an alternator, pulley size-speed does matter!

Guido.
 
(quoted from post at 08:00:55 01/29/18) I've had the same experience with 1 wire alternators all (8 different tractors) start charging as soon as the tractors start and work great.Ever notice those that go on and on about the why
the one wire alternators don't work are people that don't use them? I get mine from DB Electric for about $60 for a 62 amp and they all have done well.

My 1 wire alternator starts charging before the engine has started. You have to have the right VR.
 

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