hd6gtom

Well-known Member
Gotta buy a new 1 this week, gear box went out of the old 1. Will spend up to $1000. Any rants or raves for different brands.
 
This is where I would go in a table saw:See link first. The delta would be my choice. Jim

DEWALT 10 Inch Jobsite Table Saw - 15 Amp, 32 1/2 Inch Rip Capacity, Rolling Stand, Model DWE7491RS, Port
Delta.
 
Look on line. Table saws can be bought for pennies on the dollar anymore. I have bought two good case iron Dewalts in the last year with all the fixtures and did not spend over $500 on the pair of them.
 
The table saw is the heart of the shop. There is no substitute for quality. I have a Craftsman which is a poor substitute and is not suitable for precise work. A Delta Unisaw is the best I have used and there is better.
 
Look for a used Powermatic model 66. I have had one for over 25 years with no trouble. You won't be disappointed.
 

I bought a used craftsman 42 years ago. I have never been able to get the fence square with the blade.
 
Try to buy one with a 3hp motor. Pay more attention to the fence than the saw. A saw that will lock down every time running parallel with the top will make life a lot easier. The budget you have you better look for a used saw. If the saw doesn't look abused you can get more saw for the buck by buying used. A lot of the machinery I have in my shop were made in the 1930's and 40's. I have a radial arm saw that was used by the navy in WWII.
 
A lot depends on the application.

Job site or shop?

Hobby or professional?

As you just found out, the unitized motor/gear box models are not serviceable.

If for job site, you're somewhat confined to the unitized gearbox. I would go for the higher end model, new, not used unless you knew the history.

If for shop use, I would look for a used, belt drive, cast iron table, heavy duty model. Make sure the blade adjustment mechanism is tight, straight, works smooth. There are nice aftermarket fences that can be retrofitted if needed.
 


I start watching Craigslist. In my area I can find good quality saws, including Unisaws, Powermatics, Jet, Grizzly, etc for well under a $$$ grand. If you're going to go with something like a Craftsman or less expensive Delta, make sure it's a good, heavy belt drive and not a cheapy contractors type with the tiny belt or no belt at all.
 
I bought one from Lowe?s last year. Delta, not quite a unisaw, but very close. 30? rip capacity, besemeyer clone fence, dust port, caster wheels, a great machine! $600
 
I burned up 3 or so used Craftsman saws that I got at auctions, they'd usually last me a year or two. One was flex drive, which has to be the stupidest idea in modern engineering history, and the other two were direct drive. A few years ago I bought a used Delta 10" belt drive saw for $315 on Craigslist and it has been great. I can cut 2" thick hardwoods with no problem, I just have to feed a bit slowly. The fence is great, and I like the whole machine a lot. The only problem I have with it is that there is a spot that gets packed full of sawdusts and shavings and prevents the blade from fully lowering unless I clean it out, but it only takes a minute with a nail or a screwdriver to knock out the blockage and I don't want to run the blade down really low too often.
Zach
 
Seconding the comments about application, have you considered a Festool Track saw? I use my track saw more than the contractors grade table saw. For construction (eg OSB) i still use a regular circular saw.
 
I bought a Grizzly. I like it a lot now, but when new the blade wasn't square to the table.I had to hog out the mounts to get enough adjustment. Good saw, poor assembly in the factory.
 
Gear box on a table saw? Stay with a belt drive with cast iron table and extensions. The saws with direct motor drive and stamped tables are economy saws. A good fence is the most important part of the saw. Whether you buy new or used, plan to at least check that everything is square and parallel before making the first cut, a complete tuneup would be even better. An out of adjustment saw will not cut right and can bind, kick backs are dangerous. Most name brands have manuals online dating back into the 1970 and earlier.

If you are patient you can find good used stationary table saws and contractors saws for 1/4 to 2/3 of new cost. The price seems to depend on how quickly the seller wants it sold.
 
A few years ago I bought a Craftsman table saw. Really didn't know what to look for,
but the saw "looked" okay. Don't know how old it was. I think I got a bargain.
It has a 12" blade, cast iron table, direct drive, commercial quality, 4 hp motor,
and a "measuring edge" for the fence. It can rip edge-wise a 2x4. Good saw for a
handyman's use.
 
I bought a skill table saw and I used it for 16 years it has aluminum table. Is direct drive and have used it to put in 15 windows and cut everything from walnut to osb it. Is lightweight and I can put it in a pickup without getting a hernia. only cost $125
 
I have used several brands but about 15 years ago I bought a Delta belt drive saw and it's excellent. It was a close-out model that was the last made in USA machine that came out of the plant in Kentucky. Cast iron table, steel wings, 1.5hp Emerson motor and at that time a great deal at $450.00 delivered. I found it by searching the internet under "closeout table saw". Woodworker's Supply was where I found it.

I have used the saw a lot doing home improvement and making things. Bought a good quality carbide blade and I have enjoyed using it.

If I were looking today and I had $1,000 to spend I would likely be looking for a Delta Unisaw as others have suggested. Craigslist is a great place to look as well as EBay.
 
I bought a Rigid 10" table saw about 6 years ago. Cast iron table and wings, 3 hp belt drive.

This is the first table saw I ever owned that the fence always stays parallel with the blade. Pretty heavy use and really the only complaint is that the hookup for the vac is at an odd angle. Has the gadget that lifts the whole saw up on wheels to move around the shop with a foot pedal.

Paid about $400 for the unit new.

Brad
 
I'll ecco the advice that a $500 used saw is better than a $1k new one but Grizzly would be my choice if I had t buy new. Brand name doesn't mean what it once did. At one time there was no poor quality saws made by Delta. Delta still make's a few good saws but dozens that are not fit for trotline weights. If you can't judge quality in saws,talk to local woodworkers about help.
 
Old gal bought this sears for me years ago, good for rough work, built 3 houses and remodeled several don't owe me anything. You are right about the quality, looking on line and the tool pro's. Thanks guys.
 
My first table saw was a Sears direct drive too, LOL! I didn't know if I would enjoy woodworking so I didn't want to spend too much at the start. Sears rated it as 3 HP but it only drew 10 amps at 110V. I learner a lot using it before I replaced it with a used Delta belt drive contractors saw.
 
Is there actually a belt drive 10" table saw made anymore and I am not talking about commercial quality but farm quality and that could be run with a gas engine. Haven't seen any like that. That 10" belt drive to be run with a gas engine is what mu Amish friend has me hooking for aut auctions, swap meets and flee markets and I have not been able to find him any to put in his store for a couple of years. Everything has been direct drive that cannot be run without electricity.
 
(quoted from post at 12:08:42 01/25/18) Is there actually a belt drive 10" table saw made anymore and I am not talking about commercial quality but farm quality and that could be run with a gas engine. Haven't seen any like that. That 10" belt drive to be run with a gas engine is what mu Amish friend has me hooking for aut auctions, swap meets and flee markets and I have not been able to find him any to put in his store for a couple of years. Everything has been direct drive that cannot be run without electricity.

They're out there. Check you local Craigs List for older table saws. Lots of them from $25.00 on up in my area.
 
When a gas engine is used to power a table saw, is there a clutch between the blade and the engine or does the blade spin whenever the engine is turning?
 
I have not seen any of them up close to know how they do it. I just know what they want and my part ends when I unloade a saw at the machinery dealer. And get my money.
 
The thing is they would be too far away to be able to pay the gas to go look at them and get my costs for the saw and the trip to get enough money out of them to cover expences. Swap meet I am already going to.
 

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