- Thread starter SVcummins
- Start date
I have one. It does work but:
1. Slow, it only puts out about a 1/2 inch diameter circle.
2. Takes a lot of air. I think my compressor is around 10cfm at 90 psi. I have to wait for the compressor to catch up.
3. The pot of sand doesn't last very long. You spend a lot of time filling it.
4. You need clean dry uniform sand for any pot sand blaster to work.
5. Sand blasting really sucks.
In the end I would rather use an angle grinder with wire rope wheel. Only use the sand blaster for hard to get into spots. Don't forget about a respirator. You don't want to be breathing silica dust.
1. Slow, it only puts out about a 1/2 inch diameter circle.
2. Takes a lot of air. I think my compressor is around 10cfm at 90 psi. I have to wait for the compressor to catch up.
3. The pot of sand doesn't last very long. You spend a lot of time filling it.
4. You need clean dry uniform sand for any pot sand blaster to work.
5. Sand blasting really sucks.
In the end I would rather use an angle grinder with wire rope wheel. Only use the sand blaster for hard to get into spots. Don't forget about a respirator. You don't want to be breathing silica dust.
The blaster won't be the issue as much as the air source. The more air at higher pressure and reserve capacity the better. How big of a job?
Air compressors are generally advertised based on HP and tank size. What is important is the compressor output (psi@cfm) and reserve air storage.
If you try to run this blaster on a run of the mill single stage, 20 gal compressor, it will be very inefficient. It looks like the minimum spec on the blaster is 60psi@6cfm.
This may spit out sand, but not be very efficient in material removal and take a lot of sand. More pressure will be more efficient in material removal and use less sand, but consume a larger volume of air.
Size of job. If you are only doing small piece work. You may get by with a smaller compressor. If you are doing large areas such as tractor, I wouldn't attempt it with anything less than (in HF terms) the 5 HP 165 PSI Two Stage Air Compressor 62299.
This is case where bigger is better.
Air compressors are generally advertised based on HP and tank size. What is important is the compressor output (psi@cfm) and reserve air storage.
If you try to run this blaster on a run of the mill single stage, 20 gal compressor, it will be very inefficient. It looks like the minimum spec on the blaster is 60psi@6cfm.
This may spit out sand, but not be very efficient in material removal and take a lot of sand. More pressure will be more efficient in material removal and use less sand, but consume a larger volume of air.
Size of job. If you are only doing small piece work. You may get by with a smaller compressor. If you are doing large areas such as tractor, I wouldn't attempt it with anything less than (in HF terms) the 5 HP 165 PSI Two Stage Air Compressor 62299.
This is case where bigger is better.
Butch(OH)
Well-known Member
Blaster tanks are pretty basic in theory, operation and build, bigger issues than the blast tank are your air compressor and humidity control. Too small a compressor wont run a $1000 blaster any better than that one given the same size nozzle and high humidity to stop up that same $1000 blaster same as a $100 unit.
I ran one of those HF blasters off and on for a few years but have since moved up to a better unit made by Brute MFG. The reason for the small hole (and resulting small area that is blasted) id due to the size of compressor most people will be trying to use. Everything from the bottom of the tank out to the tip is subject to wear. The pipe fittings are easy enough to replace, blasting hose is available many places. Two issues I had with the HF unit are the ball valve on the end of the blasting hose is a joke. There is no way it can last more than half a day use without leaking badly no matter whose valve you screw on there. This is the primary reason I moved up to a better unit with a deadman valve. The small fill hole is an issue when your in a hurry.
I ran one of those HF blasters off and on for a few years but have since moved up to a better unit made by Brute MFG. The reason for the small hole (and resulting small area that is blasted) id due to the size of compressor most people will be trying to use. Everything from the bottom of the tank out to the tip is subject to wear. The pipe fittings are easy enough to replace, blasting hose is available many places. Two issues I had with the HF unit are the ball valve on the end of the blasting hose is a joke. There is no way it can last more than half a day use without leaking badly no matter whose valve you screw on there. This is the primary reason I moved up to a better unit with a deadman valve. The small fill hole is an issue when your in a hurry.
whereswaldo
Member
Unfortunately, that's what even the large capacity sandblasters do. Grease won't dissolve with abrasive; only de-greaser.
dr sportster
Well-known Member
You can do the same thing on that I did to my Trumans blaster . Change the bottom fitting to a cross instead of a tee. Then you can clear any clogs by removing the pipe plug on the bottom and clearing with a welding rod to remove packed sand. Moisture is the enemy. If you want made in USA look up Trumans.
I think that's the size I have, mine might be an 80#, looks just the same. The air filter on the blaster fell apart once but I got it back together. I have a really good coalecsing air filter/regulator that gets most of the moisture. I use a 7-1/2 hp Porter-Cable 2 stage 80 gallon compressor to run mine. With a new nozzle the compressor will catch up and shut off once, maybe twice, but then the compressor runs constantly. When the nozzle wears to over 3/16 inch bore I replace it. I use size graded crushed quartz sand. Works great, but messy. They include a funnel for filling, I pour from 100 bad into 50# bucket, then into funnel on blaster. I do not run the valve on the bootom that meters sand into the airflow wide open. Maybe half open or slightly less. And when you stop blasting shut that valve off first, then valve on end of blasting hose, then valve on regulator on water filter on blaster.
I wanted to build a cabinent to blast in but ran out of room in my shop. Maybe my next shop will be bigger. I didn't like the idea of buying a cheap Chinese pressure tank but it hasn't blown up and killed me yet. I'm sure the people who made it have NO IDEA who or what ASME is and what the do. I worked at an ASME certified mfg plant for 6 years, getting ASME certified equipment IS worth the small extra cost.
I wanted to build a cabinent to blast in but ran out of room in my shop. Maybe my next shop will be bigger. I didn't like the idea of buying a cheap Chinese pressure tank but it hasn't blown up and killed me yet. I'm sure the people who made it have NO IDEA who or what ASME is and what the do. I worked at an ASME certified mfg plant for 6 years, getting ASME certified equipment IS worth the small extra cost.
Use a 4 1/2 inch angle grinder with a 40 grit flap disc for all the areas of the loader that are accessible and save the sandblaster for those hard to get to remote areas. Then use the sandblaster and go over the areas that were prepared with the flap disc. This will remove the resultant rust and corrosion in the 'valleys' of the metal. When using the flap disc you are essentially taking the 'hills' off of the metal if one could see it in microscopic form. I use a sandblasting cabinet for my small parts and really like the result. With the sandblaster keep your pressure at or below 95 psi. Above that pressure you will have much more tendency to dull the media and turn it into dust faster. I love the look and finish after painting of the flap disc prepared areas. Maybe some phosphoric acid treatment followed by some grease and wax remover and then two coats of primer and two coats of finish paint and you will be very satisfied with the finished product. That is what I do anyway and end up with a nice finish. Good luck with your project. Spend some extra time in the preparation and when finished you can stand back and admire the results.
showcrop
Well-known Member
I agree that the blaster is not as fast as I hoped. Get a good mask. Visibility is super important. A #40 flap wheel, like WesinIL said will be way faster, and be sure to use a respirator with it because you will be working in a cloud of dust. Also Like Wes said be sure to use a rust converter in the pits.
I have the smallest one they make . Think it is a 40 pound. Use the smallest tip you can get. Not really fast but it takes way less air volume and sand. Pre cleaning will save you sooooo much time and materials. Also stay pretty close to your work. It is a sand blaster not a paint brush. Moisture is a total pain in the arse. You need the biggest dryer you can aford!!! I use a double filter PPE breather mask and a full face shield. You are going to get WAY dirty. You can buy those full size paper coverals too. I have replaced the ball valve several times but the hose is original and almost 18 years old. You also will not believe where you are going to get sand !!!! Be very careful and aware of that sand. Bearings, grease fittings, cracks, passages, etc. Blow everything down with clean air like five or six times!
Thanks for the advice I will agree preparation perpetration and more preperation then take a break for a day or so and go back and look at all the areas that need more prep . I enjoy painting things but sometimes the prep work goes on forever but it is something that must be done right for the paint to last . I probably won?t start the paint removal project for about 2 months as I have no heat in the shop where I will be working and I don?t want bare metal sitting for that long to have to remove rust
Texasmark1
Well-known Member
I have had one for many years. Only used it/attempted to use it on a couple of occasions. Reason being is I never could get everything right to keep it from plugging up right in the middle of the job....and yes I use blasting aggregate of different types looking for soemthing that works.
Besides the Silica has warnings all over the bag and even with a moderately priced respirator, I figure my lungs are worth more than the job I thought I need to have blasted.
Besides the Silica has warnings all over the bag and even with a moderately priced respirator, I figure my lungs are worth more than the job I thought I need to have blasted.
BarnyardEngineering
Well-known Member
- Location
- Rochester, NY
SVcummins, what kind of pressure washer do you have?
If you have a good one that can do 3+ GPM, consider a wet sandblasting kit. Fits right in place of your regular nozzles and uses the same media. Rather than burn out your air compressor by running it continuously for hours at a time, you're using the pressure washer as it was intended, and you never have to stop and wait for the pressure to build back up. Also, no dust.
If you have a good one that can do 3+ GPM, consider a wet sandblasting kit. Fits right in place of your regular nozzles and uses the same media. Rather than burn out your air compressor by running it continuously for hours at a time, you're using the pressure washer as it was intended, and you never have to stop and wait for the pressure to build back up. Also, no dust.
I have one and it works fairly well. It is good for small jobs. I upgraded the hand nozzle which allowed it to work better with more control. I also found that the grade of sand you use is important. The heavier grade seemed to clog more than the fine. The fine seemed to do better at cutting too. A friend uses soda in his. It consumes a lot, I mean a lot of air. As was stated, moisture can be a real problem with the sand. Use a good desiccant filter at the air intake.I use a supplied air system for breathing, thus no fear of health issues.
Stan in Oly, WA
Well-known Member
I've got nothing to add about the sand blaster, but a couple of other tools for paint and rust removal that I don't think have been mentioned are an angle grinder with a wire wheel, and a needle scaler. The needle scaler is a bit of an air hog although nothing like a sand blaster. A good, powerful 7" or 9" angle grinder with a cup wire wheel on it is my choice of one of the most unexpectedly dangerous tools you can use. They're great at grabbing shirt tails and running right up your chest to your chin before you can even think about getting your finger off the trigger. Often the outcome is not good. Really good for removing loose paint and rust, though.
Stan
Stan
Stan in Oly, WA
Well-known Member
showcrop; No, I've used flap wheels a lot. After using Harbor Freight ones a lot I got a box of good ones, 7" Norton brand, I think, and they do remove paint, rust and mill scale well. My observation is that they don't seem to last very long for what they cost. That's why I usually go over the surfaces where the paint or rust is loose with a wire wheel on an angle grinder first. A wire wheel is a slow way to deal with hard rust or good paint if it will remove them at all, but it's a good way to deal with them if they're loose. The loose stuff will still wear down or fill up a flap disk, so I usually save it until I get to the part where a flap disk will work and a wire wheel won't (or where a wire wheel would be too slow). If cost was no object I'd be glad to use flap disks for all of that. Maybe money is no object for me now but I just can't break old habits.
Stan
Stan
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