Installing two-post lift

RedMF40 · Jan 10, 2018

At some point I'll be putting a lift in my shop. Considering doing the job myself with helpers. I have plenty of room up top and side to side, with good concrete floor. I've been reading up on the topic, wanted to know if anyone here has tackled that job, has any suggestions. The lift I have in mind has overhead "bridge" for plumbing/cables. Floor is clear. Thanks for any advice, Gary in Maryland.

Roger Tomfohrde · Jan 10, 2018

Just make sure your concrete floor is thick enough. We put in a small swinging crane(300LB) and had to go down 18 inches for a base.

DRussell · Jan 10, 2018

I have a Bendpak two post lift. It requires 4 inches of concrete and 12 feet of ceiling height. The posts are heavy, especially with the carriages inside them, which have to be put inside the posts while they are laying horizontal. I would think you would want a minimum of 3 guys helping with the install, preferably 4. Mine was installed by Bendpak's installer. I watched them do the install. I would tackle the cable setup after watching them, but it can be complicated if you've not been around lifts very much.

Don't drill the holes in your concrete until you have the post standing where you want it.

RedMF40 · Jan 10, 2018

Thanks, There is also the possibility I'll have the pros do the installation. I like to know about any technical issues ahead of time and be able to talk to the installers somewhat intelligently. The four inch concrete base is the minimum thickness from my reading on the subject.

Janicholson · Jan 10, 2018

Four inches of chalky old concrete is not enough, 4 inches of crisp old concrete or reinforced or Fiber mesh concrete is fine.
Position the lift so the vehicles can be placed at or near their center of gravity (take the load out of the bed!!!) Jim

sotxbill · Jan 10, 2018

I would be worried that a two post lift would require much more concrete than the average floor has, unless you hit a beam.

JF in MI · Jan 10, 2018

I put one in this spring. I got the type with the cables and hoses going through a plate on the floor because I wanted a clear span above (I wanted to be sure it would clear my
full size van). I have a 5" floor with a huge amount of re-rod. Amazing I didn't hit one when drilling the holes. Just for the hell of it I put bracing angle iron from the tops
of the posts to the side framework of my building. The uprights were too heavy to even drag across the floor. Lifted them with the bucket loader onto car dollies then pulled
them upright with a block and tackle attached to roof beams. Once upright they can be walked into place. Watched a video on how to install the posts and they recommended
construction epoxy in the holes. They said to fill the holes 2/3 with epoxy (I found 1/3 is plenty). Learned the hard way to put a rag around the bolt before pounding them into
place so as not to take an epoxy bath. Let the epoxy harden overnight and the next day the bolts tighten up without moving. I think the bolt torque was something like 130 lbs
and my arms were a couple of inches longer after doing the job. The important thing is, since you are reading this you already own a tractor, being able to unload it from the
shipping truck.

Mike Groom · Jan 10, 2018

I've installed two of them,just follow the instructions and they go real easy,the first one we used my loader tractor to stand the post up,the second one 4 of us
stood them up after we put them in place with a bobcat.Lay everything out on the concrete with chalk lines and make sure the columns are level both
directions,both ours had the overhead cables and hyds. We anchored the control post and stood the second one up and supported it while we fastened the top rail to
it,then leveled the second post and anchored it (just to double check our dims.)they both came out real close to the chalk marks.It's really very simple to do
with a couple of buddy's helping.I wired mine with conduit pulled wires for a welding outlet and a 110 outlet on the control post,one of the smartest things I
ever did,use both of them a lot!As stated by others just make sure the concrete is 4 inches or more and you're good to go. Have fun with it,wish I would have put
mine in 35 years ago when I bought the place.

RedMF40 · Jan 10, 2018

Thanks for the replies, nice-looking lift and good installation. Yes, I have loader tractor, should handle the heavy stuff no problem. Curious about the epoxy:

"Let the epoxy harden overnight and the next day the bolts tighten up without moving. I think the bolt torque was something like 130 lbs"

Was it JUST epoxy in the holes with the bolts, or did you use an anchor of some kind for the bolts to screw into? Probably different ways to do this, just wondering how it worked with the epoxy.

JF in MI · Jan 10, 2018

The bolts that came with the lift are the "expanding" anchor type but I found they can continue to slip as they are being tightened and the top winds up being higher out of the
hole than is called for in the instructions (dangerous, can pull out). With the epoxy they don't move AT ALL.

JF in MI · Jan 10, 2018

One other thing; The epoxy manufacturers have it figured out pretty good. You'll run out of the tube just as you have 2 bolts to go.

Dieseltech · Jan 10, 2018

The two post lift in my shop has a heavy length of angle iron to spread the load at the beam base on each beam. If I recall the floor is five inch with re-enforcement wire when it was poured in 1992.

RedMF40 · Jan 10, 2018

01/10/18) The bolts that came with the lift are the "expanding" anchor type but I found they can continue to slip as they are being tightened and the top winds up being higher out of the
hole than is called for in the instructions (dangerous, can pull out). With the epoxy they don't move AT ALL.[/quote]

Ok, thanks. Just watched a video and I have a better understanding of how the epoxy works. Will make sure to get two tubes if I go that way LOL ;-)

Hobo,NC · Jan 10, 2018

The torque on my anchor bolts are 60 maybe 80 no were near 130

:shock:

My son and I have put up 12 are so nuttin to it, I ordered mine 2' taller than normal clear floor type its the only way to fly... The last three I brought in 2002 were Worth they are a very strong well built lift made in the USA... What do you plan to lift if its more than a 1/2 ton truck I would go at the least 12K I have a 12K wished I had got a 15K... I still have the first one I brought its a Mohawk
A-7 I brought it around 1985 they were 5K with a lifetime warranty.

hd6gtom · Jan 10, 2018

Do these use a cable over hydraulic or chain over hydraulic?? If they are cable operated and you see any
fraying of the cable -- the cable needs to be replaced immiediatly. They used to run around $1200.00 for the
cables.

RedMF40 · Jan 11, 2018

The lifts I'm looking at are 9000 lb. Should be enough to work safely under my F250 empty. Where I live the local repair shops often upgrade and get rid of good-quality used lifts for a reasonable price. Ok for an occasional user like me.

For the cables, I'll be sure to check them out if I go with a used lift.
It's likely I'll have a professional go over the whole thing to make sure it's in good working order and safe to operate.

ptfarmer · Jan 11, 2018

This is a good idea, its what I would do https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwVVOVQDKDs

JF in MI · Jan 11, 2018

Got me thinking so I went back and looked at the installation manual. Yup; 3/4" bolts torqued to 130 lbs. I figure installing it the way the manufacturer says to is the best way
to avoid it falling over with a vehicle on it.

RedMF40 · Jan 11, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:55:51 01/11/18) This is a good idea, its what I would do https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vwVVOVQDKDs

Thanks--I've drilled through a corner of my floor and it's at least 5" of very strong concrete. The man who built this place went way beyond any minimum standards. He overbuilt just about everything, which is good for installing a lift. The video is good if there's a very thin floor and new concrete needs to be keyed under the existing one.

For the torque specs, I'll make sure I know what is called for when installing my particular lift.

Thanks for the suggestions, feeling a bit more motivated to get started on this.

Hobo,NC · Jan 11, 2018

Went back and checked my manual 75 on the 3/4 X 5"bolts... I can tell ya it taint going anywhere are has not in the last 17 years...

130 is pushing it on concrete.... By all means do not use a impact wrench....

Ken Macfarlane · Jan 12, 2018

If anyone is reading this with a new floor, be cautious of epoxy. If one of the shrinkage cracks lines up with the hole, the epoxy anchors fall out. Expansion / wedge anchors will slip but will expand and hold.

Dealt with this for hanging seismic stuff in new buildings. No epoxy, no drop-in anchors, etc due to the shrinkage/cracking when concrete cures.

jturbo10 · Jan 12, 2018

I put in a symmetric BenPak 12k two post lift a couple of years in my new shop. I had the pad area specially built with 8 inches of high pressure concrete with integrated rebar and electrical conduit. I used the BenPak crew to install the lift to be sure it would meet code and insurance requirements. Works great on all my vehicles including the duallys. Important to use American made lifts that meet certification requirements and are actually certified. JMHO

Flyin Farmall · Jan 12, 2018

i'd be worried about the extra bracing,these lifts are actually designed to flex some under load.

RedMF40 · Jan 13, 2018

Thanks--I plan to install or have it installed to manufacturer's specs. If they don't call for additional bracing, then I see no reason to make extra work. Also looks like a much cleaner job having it bolted only to the floor.

Since we've kept this going a bit, thought I'd go in a different direction. BendPak seems to be a good brand, professional quality. There are brands like Titan that everyone appears to hate. I'll most likely go with the professional brand but does anyone have experience with the "off-brands" of lifts?

Hobo,NC · Jan 13, 2018

It would be wise to buy one that's certified.

http://www.autolift.org/car-lift-inspector-certification/faq/

That being said I did not when I brought my Worth lifts. Why they
do not not have theirs certified I dunno other than to say they will put most major lifts to shame when it comes to how well they are built. Compare lift weight to all you are looking at.

I see a lot of Ben-pak's in use as long as it a top of the line model I spec you can not go wrong.

http://www.bendpak.com/a-study-in-lift-design/Cheap-Lift-vs-BendPak/

RedMF40 · Jan 14, 2018

(quoted from post at 10:04:44 01/13/18)
It would be wise to buy one that's certified.

Thanks, Hobo--I looked at the comparison video, really big differences between the bargain lifts and the BendPak. It'll help a lot when I choose a lift for my place. I appreciate the info. Gary in Maryland

Wolff · Jan 15, 2018

Not much to it. Once you get them up-right you can walk them into place. You said it would be a-clear floor model the top plate will determine the distance of the 2 columns. Make sure to square them drill holes
shim and bolt to floor. Install cables and hoses to OEM directions.

Installing two-post lift

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