G6 at Snook, TX
Well-known Member
For those who know, is there any real difference between SAE 30 made by Briggs and formulated for air cooled engines (at least claimed on the packaging) and the say the SAE 30 house brand at NAPA?
- Thread starter G6 at Snook, TX
- Start date
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
I doubt the B&S oil is anything special. They are not formulating or making it, just ordering it from a supplier that puts their label on the container.
From the B&S website:
We recommend the use of Briggs & Stratton Warranty Certified oils for best performance. Other high-quality detergent oils are acceptable if classified for service SF, SG, SH, SJ or higher. Do not use special additives.
I take this to mean any oil with the above rating will be sufficient and maintain warranty requirements.
Note the suffix letter following the "S". They are in alphabetical order. When it says "higher", that means in alphabetical order. Each new product will be released in alphabetical order, the lower letters will be slowly phased out. It is OK to go with anything "F" or higher.
They also have viscosity rating charts to adjust for operating temperatures.
From the B&S website:
We recommend the use of Briggs & Stratton Warranty Certified oils for best performance. Other high-quality detergent oils are acceptable if classified for service SF, SG, SH, SJ or higher. Do not use special additives.
I take this to mean any oil with the above rating will be sufficient and maintain warranty requirements.
Note the suffix letter following the "S". They are in alphabetical order. When it says "higher", that means in alphabetical order. Each new product will be released in alphabetical order, the lower letters will be slowly phased out. It is OK to go with anything "F" or higher.
They also have viscosity rating charts to adjust for operating temperatures.
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
I usually buy enough oil from the dealer to last through the warranty period, then I switch to the best deal that meets the
requirements.
requirements.
The Briggs & Stratton oil has higher level of the ZDDP anti-wear additive package and a higher heat durabilty rating. Not by
much though.
Briggs SAE 30 - made by Olympic - up to 5% ZDDP, 428 F high heat rating
NAPA SAE 30 - made by Valvoline - 1.1 % ZDDP, 392 F high heat rating
That said - Briggs says other oils are OK.
much though.
Briggs SAE 30 - made by Olympic - up to 5% ZDDP, 428 F high heat rating
NAPA SAE 30 - made by Valvoline - 1.1 % ZDDP, 392 F high heat rating
That said - Briggs says other oils are OK.
Oregon Tractor Jack
Member
I don't know the answer to the first question posted for this string but I do have a comment. I did read and article from either Popular Mechanics or Mechanics Illustrated about air cooled engine oil. According to the article there was a difference between B&S oil and the other brands. There were supposedly more additives to held with keeping the viscosity constant due to the increased heat of an air cooled engine. Was this article sponsored by B&S? I don't know. I went to buy some B&S oil after I read the article but the price was way to high. I just continued to use regular motor oil and all my mowers are still running just fine. I do change the oil twice a season and I always let the engines sit and idle for a few minutes to let the engine cool down a bit before shut down.
OTJ
OTJ
Russ from MN
Well-known Member
- Location
- Bemidji MN
When you buy a new JD mower the dealer recommends JD oil!
I doubt the B&S oil is anything special really. I will say, however, that for my newer (and more expensive) equipment like my Honda generator, I use Amsoil 10-30 Small Engine. When hauling our 5er, we run the generator sometimes for 18 to 24 hours straight and I find peace of mind using a full group 4 synthetic. I'm sure other group 4s would be as good....but I use Amsoil in many of vehicles (engines, trans, differentials, etc) and always had good success with that brand.
G6 at Snook, TX
Well-known Member
What prompted the question is that I have a tiring 16hp Briggs motor that is powering a mid 1980s Lincoln Weldanpower. I noticed the carburetor leaking gas and have isolated it in the blowby of the rings valves. The carburetor itself is an updraft gravity flow set-up that has a breather tube connected to the air filter tower. Anyhow, after testing and trying and consulting mechanics, the rings are wearing down on that single cylinder machine. It has burned a little oil too.
Due to age of machine, degree of difficulty in splitting motor from the welder, and my lack of mechanical skills I decided to follow the path of least resistance and change the oil from the Amsoil 10w-30 to a straight weight 30 or 40 when we get into the summertime. I live in Texas so it gets hot. That minor change might by me some time and slow the blowby.
Additionally, I have some 30 and 40 SAE on the shelf, and I was hoping to use that rather than buy the Briggs branded stuff at Walmart if the quality was close enough for a small engine. That is what prompted the question.
Due to age of machine, degree of difficulty in splitting motor from the welder, and my lack of mechanical skills I decided to follow the path of least resistance and change the oil from the Amsoil 10w-30 to a straight weight 30 or 40 when we get into the summertime. I live in Texas so it gets hot. That minor change might by me some time and slow the blowby.
Additionally, I have some 30 and 40 SAE on the shelf, and I was hoping to use that rather than buy the Briggs branded stuff at Walmart if the quality was close enough for a small engine. That is what prompted the question.
Steve@Advance
Well-known Member
I would give the 30 or 40 a try. The 10w 30 could be causing some problems.
The factory bulletin warns 10w 40 may cause some consumption.
Even if it does give up the ghost at some point, don't blame the oil, it's already served well.
But no matter how worn the rings, the carb shouldn't be leaking gas. Any chance there is gas in the oil?
The blow-by condition will, however cause oil to drip from the bottom of the air inlet.
The factory bulletin warns 10w 40 may cause some consumption.
Even if it does give up the ghost at some point, don't blame the oil, it's already served well.
But no matter how worn the rings, the carb shouldn't be leaking gas. Any chance there is gas in the oil?
The blow-by condition will, however cause oil to drip from the bottom of the air inlet.
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