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grinding cast iron

N

NHbalerman

Member
I got a block that a rod knocked a hole in it right above the pan doesnt effect the water jackets and I was thinking about taking a die grinder and grinding the hole round and taking one of those rubber plugs and put it in there and tighten it up to fix the block just to keep oil in and dirt out can you grind cast iron very easy?
 
Cast iron machines well, would be easy to grind.

But, look at the area around the hole closely for radiating cracks, other areas that may have taken a hit.

I would not use a rubber plug though. The oil will eventually degrade it to mush. A couple of washers with a through bolt and some JB Weld will be more permanent.

Still, using a repaired block should only be used as a last resort. It will lower the resale value, and always a chance of a troublesome leak or unseen problem.
 
Hello nhbalerman,


Sure you can. If you make the opening somewhat round, and are careful, you can drill it round for a better patch. It drills easy too! Just watch your drilling speed,

Guido.
 
(quoted from post at 19:06:22 11/08/17) I agree with JB weld. Had a VW case hat had been patched. Ran for years like that!
Click to expand...
W cases are not cast iron, aluminum is far more flexible and less brittle. But JB Weld is pretty good stuff, might get by for a while, but I'd always worry about differential expansion with heat. How big a hole is this, anyway? I love pics.
 
I had a 67 Chrysler 300 with a 440 that broke a rod. It punched a hole in the block & broke the camshaft. Still ran on 6. Hole did not get the water jacket. I stripped it down to the bare block & busted up some junk to get pieces that I ground to fit & welded them in with nickel rods. That was at 87000 miles & I put that many more on it before I sold it.
 
I did it a little different.

Rod punched a hole through block. I ground down jagged edges and trace the pattern and cut a piece of plate steel to fit. TIGed it in and then spread a ample coating of JB weld to cover any radiated cracks or small pin holes....

It's the gray area to the left of the oil filter...
a177593.jpg
 
I saw an old Ford tractor block that had a patch bolted to the block behind the starter. The patch had been there for several years. The engine was getting another overhaul. I bought a junk Farmall A that has a patch bolted to the entire left side of the water jacket. I didn't see the patch until after I bought it. It was painted over and apparently had been used that way.
 
I don't think those rubber plugs are compatible with oil. Maybe a couple of fender washers inside and out with a generous amount of silicone sealer between them would work.
 
If you down load and enlarge this photo, you will notice a patch on the block behind the carb. It had been there for years prior to my acquisition 10 years ago. The tractor ran so well, that I just left it alone when I painted it 5 years ago. I got the tractor to mow grass and it still does 2 acres a week in the summer.
a177622.jpg
 
Lots of fine sliver of iron so safety glasses would be a must and no oil on the carbide burr grinder .Iron likes it dry.
 
Put a vacuum cleaner by where you are grinding to suck away the cast iron dust. You breath in that cast iron dust you smell/taste it for a few days. Any cast iron dust that floats in the air should land on a painted surface it will leave rust stains the first time it gets wet, so keep your nicely painted things covered, or better yet grind on the cast iron away from everything you don't want to have rust stains.
 

If you were to flatten the surface and drill and tap some holes you could bolt on a piece of steel plate and make it look factory.
 
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