(quoted from post at 00:52:02 09/28/17) I bought an old, very used Club Car electric to use around the farm. As I knew when purchased, it has a few problems but generally it works. It is a 2002 model, 48 volt and I did buy a manual, but it is not all that easy to read. I hope you can give me a little practical repair advice.
1)It has fairly recent batteries and runs pretty strong. Should I keep it on the charger all the time?
2) the reverse doesn't work (I can live with that and be careful where I park) but what is the best way to trouble shoot it? Process of elimination? Where to start?
3) Brakes are bad, bought new shoes, do I need to pull the axles to put on the shoes? Then I will need to adjust cables...best process?
4) Throttle sticks, is there a spring missing?
5) What is the best way to disconnect the batteries when working on it?
I am an old guy, crawling around is not much fun. Can I put this cart up on a farm wagon to make working on it easier? or Any other make work easier ideas.
I read that this is your 9 2 5 business, I'm sure you have seen it all. Many thanks for your help.
1) yes, keep the charger on whenever you're not using the cart. Is it a standard DS model? VIN is right under the center console, please post it.
2) Almost all 2002 models were still series-wound motors, that is, they have a large club-shape F&R handle with a very high-amp switch (has the 6-gauge wires going to it). Chances are the switch needs to be replaced, sorry they're not cheap. Certainly examine it very carefully, look for burned contacts, melted plastic etc. Available as an (expensive) option was the high-speed package, the new "IQ" system with a shunt-wound motor and a little rocker switch for F&R. If you have that, just replace the switch, it's cheap.
3) Whatever it takes to get underneath it, do it. I'm an old f*rt myself, I got 'em to get me a lift. But you need to get down there to check and adjust the brake cables. Assuming they move freely and are not frayed or broken, back them off so they have about 1/8" free play there at the equalizer where the adjuster screws are. No, you don't have to remove the axles, but it is sort of a pain getting at the shoes behind the axle flange. I usually remove the lower return spring with a small pair of vice grips, then use an 8" screwdriver to compress the flat retainer spring and remove the nail, then use the same driver to pry the shoe back to remove the upper spring. If there is any ridge at all on the drums replace them, you can't back off the self-adjuster to get the drum off easier 'cuz there's no hole for it. If they're tight coming off, use an air chisel on low setting and toss 'em once they're off. New ones ~ $50 apiece and they're already at max dia. Just get the adjustment close on reassembly, the Club Car self-adjusters work very well. Too well sometimes. Clean the self-adjusters up well and lube with dry moly. Adjust cables loose, drive cart for awhile using brakes a lot, then tighten cables if necessary. Probably won't be.
4) not sure which throttle system you have. One possibility is a "v-glide", a slice-of-pie shaped thing located between the center and left pair of batteries, operated by a rod that goes up to the pedal assembly. This has a push-type return spring up by the pedal, about 1 1/2" dia. A little WD40 sometimes helps here. The other is a square black box located on the frame on the passenger side operated by a rod off the pedal with a sort of spline joint running through a hole in the frame. Originally it had the return spring built into the box, the new upgrade kit has an external spring. All the springs are accessed from below. Do you have a forklift? If you use that be careful of brake cables and the huge brake pedal assembly.
5) I usually disconnect both the positive and negative cables from the battery pack itself, and if it has lights take that wire off too. This is a good opportunity to examine the battery terminals and cable ends, usually the positive is the worst, followed by the one with the 12V lights on it. Soak in baking soda/water and/or wire brush as necessary, but you want shiny metal contacting shiny metal. Coat with battery terminal coat when done, of course. After disconnecting the batteries, put the cart in reverse, keyswitch on, pedal down for 23-30 seconds to drain the caps in the motor controller. If it has a tow switch it should be in run, then put in tow before hooking up batteries again. The tow switch goes with the IQ system, shunt motor, small F&R switch.
Farm wagon, HD workbench, forklift, whatever works. I can't sling those heavy batteries around anymore, either:
