brakes 2007 gmc canyon2wd

Hello all, I spent the afternoon doing brakes on my 2007 gmc canyon 2wd. What a nightmare. Any other vehicle I have every done rotor comes off after taking the front wheel off. On this truck I had to unbolt hub assembly from steering knuckles and beat them apart. then unbolt rotor from hub. Any how my question. hub to steering knuckle bolts had yellow thread sealer on them. What is this and should I use something similar upon reassemble. and should these bolts be torqued to spec or just "dog tight" as my father used to say. Rotors are at Oreilys for turning and it will be Tuesday before I get back to reassembly. Thanks Charles
 
I'm sure there is a torque spec for them, but I've always just tightened them as tight as I dared.

A drop of Locktite wouldn't hurt, but I've never used it, never had one come loose.

Just my experience, not sure if it is right, just how I do it.
 
(quoted from post at 06:30:35 05/29/17) Hello all, I spent the afternoon doing brakes on my 2007 gmc canyon 2wd. What a nightmare. Any other vehicle I have every done rotor comes off after taking the front wheel off. On this truck I had to unbolt hub assembly from steering knuckles and beat them apart. then unbolt rotor from hub. Any how my question. hub to steering knuckle bolts had yellow thread sealer on them. What is this and should I use something similar upon reassemble. and should these bolts be torqued to spec or just "dog tight" as my father used to say. Rotors are at Oreilys for turning and it will be Tuesday before I get back to reassembly. Thanks Charles

When rotors are bolted to the hub its called a captured rotor, Rotors on those are resurfaced while mounted to the hub no need to take them off the hub unless you are going to replace them... If you replace a captured rotor you resurface it even a new one while its bolted to the hub... I also guess you checked discard thickness are minimum machine spec...

Your call on how tite is tite enoufh...
 

Discard thickness it 1" If they turn it below that tell them to eat it and sell you a new set of rotors. New 1.060 not tell me how you can run it thru a set of pads and it still be with in min discard thickness after you turn it... It would take some expensive tooling the turn that rotor off the hub that most don't have and never will...

If you turn it off the hub it may be out, if you turn it on the hub its true to the hub... Even if I went new I would turn a new rotor on the hub its too labor intensive to redo it...
 
I would put on new rotors and use a light threadlocker like Permatex blue(242). Off the car can be a crap shoot, but as posted on the car is the way to go especially with those. GM blew it with that design in my opinion. If they were mine, and I pulled them off they would get new ones.
 
Friend of mine had a 2005 Canyon, IIRC. He learned that you have to turn the rotors ON THE TRUCK to get them to run true. Can't just leave them on the hub. Has to be ON THE TRUCK, at least according to the garage he ended up having the work done at.

That said, a couple of years later he had to do it again, and instead of having it professionally done, he did it himself and put a dial indicator on the rotors. They ran within .001" right out of the box.
 

When they used to have .250" of metal between new and discard, it was worth it to turn them.

Now you get .040" or .060" of metal before they're junk, I can't see turning anything. If the rotor is bent or varying thickness, you'll feel that in the brake pedal if you're somewhat aware of what's going on.

So if they're not jumping the brake pedal, and still over minimum, I just install new pads. Been doing it that way for 35 years...The second set of pads is new rotor time....
 

We sell tractor parts! We have the parts you need to repair your tractor - the right parts. Our low prices and years of research make us your best choice when you need parts. Shop Online Today.

Back
Top