Best method to clean pressure switch contact points

I would probably replace the switch, they should have a coating on them that prevents corrosion.
 
Typically, when contacts are worn/burned to that point the silver or other precious metal layer is burned away and the contacts are prone to burn and stick/weld closed

NOT a good plan with anything involving the buildup of pressure.

Best to replace it.
 
You used to be able to buy just the contact points for Square D, but now there are many other brands in use. I would just clean them with fine sandpaper and then blow out the dust. On 120V motors I only break the hot side then if those points get bad I can just switch the wires over to the new set of points. Tanks becoming waterlogged causing pumps to start-stop way too much is the most common cause of points burning.
 
In the event you feel you MUST clean versus replace (my advice if badly burned) contacts, I advise you as non abrasively as possible clean/buff/polish them which can remove any light oxide coat, HOWEVER, if they are so badly burned or pitted to the point you need to FILE them, once that shiny silvery coating is gone they are apt to stick again. Still as a TEMPORARY emergency measure to get you going, lightly clean/buff/polish may help even if a band aid fix....... I have used electronic contact spray cleaner in light oxidized situations.

John T
 
Well they are a set of points and when I have to clean the ones on my well system I use my points file. Simple small file made just for cleaning points
 
Well I saved that $28 for over 10 years by cleaning the point when the pump did not turn on due to burnt points.
 
I keep a new switch on hand. When the points have gone bad on a well pressure switch here it has been due to water log cycling from the bladder having failed and more has been beat up than just the points.
 
When I was working we had a "burnishing tool" which amounted to what looked like a single "feeler gauge" measuring strip, say .010 size or thereabouts with a fine abrasive coating, say something like 400 grit or better.
 

Where are the savings of the pump fails to start or if the contacts weld and the system builds pressure until bursting?
Spending $28 buys peace of mind . In fact I bought the upgrade model that shuts the pump down if pressure drops due to a burst pipe .
 
Hello Texasmark1,


Got one of those. Burnishing is also done on bushings after installation. Burnishing only works on good contacts though. He should replace the switch!. That is not a place to pinch pennies...........

Guido.
 
Agree on that. Burnishing is just shining up what is already shiny. Case in point: Had a '77 Toyota Cilica with the 20R 4 cyl OHV engine. It had an early CD ignition that used a transistor driven by contact points to do the switching. Since the contact current was just base drive to a transistor, the circuit was sensitive to resistance on the contacts.

Every so often, the thing would quit running. I'd get out, pop the dist cap and rotor and using a business card "burnish" the corrosion/oxidation off the points. Put it back together and be on my way in a matter of a few minutes.
 

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