How to clean ethanol gas clogged card

chuckinnc

Member
Seems every atv, chainsaw, lawnmower I have cloggs up if left to set anytime. Where I live there are no eth free gas so I need a way to clean the carbs. I use various cleaners in my cheap Harbor freight parts washer but it fails to clean the small ports. I
bought a set of small tip cleaners (tiny twist drills) but they are to weak for most of the glue. So what is the strongest cleaning fluid I can get for the parts washer?
 
I don't want to start the ethanol blend vs. non blended fuels dialogue, its been hammered to death on this site. What I will say is how long are you leaving fuel set in a machine? All gasoline will varnish after a while. Leaving a sticky glue like substance in carbs and lines. Are you using any additive to your ethanol blended gas to lengthen its shelf life? Are you running the machine until all fuel is used up from the carburetor or tank? I only use carb cleaner aerosol from the auto parts store, sometimes also use brakeclean. But I don't have carb troubles. I used e-10 in everything. I use an additive. On small machines I run them out of fuel between uses. Maybe I'm just "lucky" or maybe our e-10 is different. just my experience and my way of dealing with blended fuel. gobble
 
I have an additive to prevent varnishing up the carb . I don't know the name of the product but it was sold at a motorcycle shop. Not Stabile but similar.
 
Your right Tomturkey but the damage has been done and I am not looking for preventive measures, just the strongest cleaner I can find to fix the preasent problems. I am the guy the entire family goes to when this happens, so it's not under my control, I also let stuff set to long, guess it's early altimeters maybe.
 
(quoted from post at 16:49:47 02/28/17) Seems every atv, chainsaw, lawnmower I have cloggs up if left to set anytime. Where I live there are no eth free gas so I need a way to clean the carbs. I use various cleaners in my cheap Harbor freight parts washer but it fails to clean the small ports. I
bought a set of small tip cleaners (tiny twist drills) but they are to weak for most of the glue. So what is the strongest cleaning fluid I can get for the parts washer?

This is what I have used for about 20 years: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/gunk-carburetor-parts-cleaner-complete-kit-cc3k/7040709-P?searchTerm=carb+cleaners

Let is soak a while, rinse with water, and blow dry with compressed air.
 
I just use the spray carb cleaner.

Not to be confused with "brake" cleaner, that's different stuff, has little effect on fuel gum.

And scraping out the jets is the way to get then clean. I usually use a small stiff wire, like a bristle out of a wire brush.
 
How long are you leaving stuff set? I don't use ethanol gas in any of our 2-strokes, but I do in everything else, and have no problems, and some of our engines only are run once a year.
 
Go to TSC and get some mechanic in a bottle. It will clean that goop out while it's running so you don't have to take it apart and clean it.
 
For your own use, look on U'tube on how to remove the ethinol from gas. Very easy to do. Gallon of gas, guart of water and some blue food dye. It works, look it up. The blue dye lets you easily see the water from gas layer.
 
I use ethanol in all of my engines including small ones many of which sit over the winter with no use.Never had a fuel issue. It's amazing the things ethanol gets blamed for.
 
I have rebuilt a fair amount of gunked up carburetors and learned to boil them first to soften up the crud inside and out. I use a 1/2 cup of liquid laundry soap to about a two quarts of water. I use NAPA carburetor cleaner with the basket and let in soak for at least a day.
 
Ever tried boiling all of the parts in water? Give it about 10 minutes...amazing what comes loose.
 
(quoted from post at 10:49:47 02/28/17) Seems every atv, chainsaw, lawnmower I have cloggs up if left to set anytime. [color=red:c1846895d9]Where I live there are no eth free gas[/color:c1846895d9] so I need a way to clean the carbs. I use various cleaners in my cheap Harbor freight parts washer but it fails to clean the small ports. I
bought a set of small tip cleaners (tiny twist drills) but they are to weak for most of the glue. So what is the strongest cleaning fluid I can get for the parts washer?

Some New Murphys Oil at Walmart stores have ethanol free gas. If you have a new Murphys Oil near you check and see. It is about $.30 higher
 
1/4 oz of Star Tron per 5 gal fuel will clean carbon while using the machine, in lawn mower, chain saw whatever. If it sits too long, you'll need to give it a shot of Carburetor cleaner. I also use a can of Seafoam in my automobiles twice a year to remove water and "gunk." Saves me a lot of service fees and they run like a top. Just sayin...
 

You really need to either change where you buy the fuel, or do some complaining BIG TIME to the manager. I've been using E10 for 25 to 30 years now. I never empty a gas tank on anything at the end of the season. Whatever is in the tank when it gets parked is still in there several months later and I've NEVER had a problem. I DO NOT use any kind of fuel stabilizer either.
 
Get the gallon can of Gunk or other brand carb cleaner that you soak stuff in. Do not put it in you parts washer. and Don't put your hands in it!
 
Here is what I boil in.

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You might be surprised at the octane rating of the fuel after removing the ETOH. I would guess it might be down to 82 or less!!
Holes in pistons are available. Jim
 
The good Gunk carburetor cleaner that worked and was once available at auto parts stores has not been available for over thirty years.

Thanks feds.

Dean
 
in our fire dept in all pumps,gens.,chainsaws,and any other gas engines we use TRUE FUEL 0 problems some sit for a long time and don't give us any problems stuff is good for 5 years but we change all fuel ever three years but do test run them once a month after three years we dump fuel fill with new
 
Hell Janicholson,

Assuming it was 89 octane your guess maybe close. But if the octane rating is 87, which is regular unleaded, 10% ethanol would be a worse scenario!

Guido.
 
Hello. chuckinnc,

I use copper wire to clean orifices. Air pressure won't dislodge a clogged hole full of varnish. I twist as many strands as needed to clean the hole. Copper is soft and it won't enlarge the hole,

Guido
 
My chain saw I dump the gas out when I'm done and then start and let the saw run till it's out of gas. I don't have clogged carbuertors.
 
(quoted from post at 00:06:42 03/01/17) My chain saw I dump the gas out when I'm done and then start and let the saw run till it's out of gas. I don't have clogged carbuertors.
xactly! You can not let the crap "gas" sit in them!
 
Bingo, JMOR.

The only real solution is Aviation gasoline. Automotive premium is a distant second but usually better than regular.

Even running the tank dry is not foolproof, as it is not possible to get all of the fuel from the fuel system.

Dean
 
In a few days I am going to be working on a gunked up generator fuel system that has had a 50-50 mix of regular unleaded and avgas in the talk. I plan to use 85% ethanol to clean it up.
 
It's not the ethanol, gasoline when it goes bad creates a varnish from the petroleum in it. What I normally do is at the end of the season either pump the fuel out of the tank or let the machine run until it runs out of gas.
 
(quoted from post at 00:53:04 03/01/17) It's not the ethanol, gasoline when it goes bad creates a varnish from the petroleum in it. What I normally do is at the end of the season either pump the fuel out of the tank or let the machine run until it runs out of gas.
o, why did we not have this problem 20-30 years ago? I'm open.
 
Ultrasonic cleaner is what the good small engine & automotive shops use. Harbor Freight has a small gal unit that works OK but it cycles every 4 minutes The bigger ones will clean a carb in 20 minutes.
 
Get your fuel systems clean and run Briggs & Stratton fuel Stabilizer in your fuel( even gas with ethanol) will keep fuel fresh for 3 years.I have been using it since 2008 in everything and run gasoline with ethanol. I run Opti-2 ( one mixture for all 2 cycles) and B&S fuel stabilizer in my chain saws and other 2 cycle engines and never drain them when not in use. The Briggs & Stratton fuel stabilizer combats the effects of ethanol in gasoline.
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(quoted from post at 12:49:47 02/28/17) Seems every atv, chainsaw, lawnmower I have cloggs up if left to set anytime. Where I live there are no eth free gas so I need a way to clean the carbs. I use various cleaners in my cheap Harbor freight parts washer but it fails to clean the small ports. I
bought a set of small tip cleaners (tiny twist drills) but they are to weak for most of the glue. So what is the strongest cleaning fluid I can get for the parts washer?

I have the same problems with ethanol fuels in my area. I haven't found anything that will cure every gunked up carb, but ether and acetone or zylene, not mixed together but used separately and blown out afterwords, works a lot of the time. Soaking in cleaner will help soften SOME varnish/gunk, but not all. It's often a crap shoot. Mechanically cleaning the passages with a wire works as long as you don't dig into the base metal. You can ruin a carb that way.

If you can't get non-ethanol in your area, you can try products like Star-tron or other ethanol related products. Some people report good results. The other option is buying the pre-mixed fuel. Personally, I'd get a couple of good gas cans and find a place that sells non-ethanol, even if it's premium gas. Paying a dollar or 2 more for 5 gallons of fuel that won't give you headaches is worth it to me. It may take some driving, but chances are it will solve your problems.
 
I've had no problems with 90-10 ethanol....I leave the fuel in my lawnmower,chain saw,weed eater,etc..
 
I know most of you guys are not old enough to remember when gas had lead in it. That stuff was nasty and totally uncleanable it allowed to sit too long.
 
Ethanol has been part of gas since the 1970s - when the US lowered lead content in fuel. Unleaded fuel got it first then the "leaded" fuels had it added when the lead content was lowered in it too. Eventually "leaded" gasoline dropped off the market completely because the lead content that was allowed was so low it didn't help the octane rating. 30 years ago ethanol was pretty common in all gasoline. And you think there wasn't issues with old gummy gas back in the 1960s and 1950s you just have selective memory or you were not alive. There is a reason why gas stations were known as "service stations" and every on duty mechanic had good working knowledge of carburetors.
 
I just remember our old gas combines needing the carb pulled and cleaned every year before the wheat harvest could begin. Shutting off the gas and running the carb empty just made it harder to clean as the gas scale became baked on instead of just gummy. The idea that non-ethanol gas didn't gum up or get water in it is pure fantasy.
 
(quoted from post at 09:38:39 03/01/17) Ethanol has been part of gas since the 1970s - when the US lowered lead content in fuel. Unleaded fuel got it first then the "leaded" fuels had it added when the lead content was lowered in it too. Eventually "leaded" gasoline dropped off the market completely because the lead content that was allowed was so low it didn't help the octane rating. 30 years ago ethanol was pretty common in all gasoline. And you think there wasn't issues with old gummy gas back in the 1960s and 1950s you just have selective memory or you were not alive. There is a reason why gas stations were known as "service stations" and every on duty mechanic had good working knowledge of carburetors.

Yes I remember the leaded non ethanol gas from the 60s and 70s would gum up. The big difference was it took much longer. Selective memory?? you don't remember how long it took to gum up.
 
Well old enough to remember gasoline of the 50s, 60s and 70s.

Pre EPA and ethanol one could store gasoline for years and problems related to old gasoline were few and far between.

BTDT.

Dean, who does not raise corn and has no vested interest in this issue.
 
Never knew about ethan/non ethanol when I was growing up. might have been handy, kuz growing up in the oil patch,''Drip''or 'wellhead'gas was a freeby in winter-[if you had connections, or knew where the valve was]---getting a little water & gas line freeze-up was a regular hazard---we didn't see no real harm til someone explained-federal offense, avoiding road tax--darn it, we had to give 20-some cents a gal. fer that real stuff, more for leaded-[which mixed real good with the free stuff btw]---
 
"The idea that non-ethanol gas didn't gum up or get water in it is pure fantasy."

I have failed to find where anyone has claimed this.

That said, pre EPA/ethanol gasoline could be stored much, much longer before the now all too common aged gasoline problems manifested themselves.

BTDT.

Dean
 
You need to read up on the effects of ethanol gasoline. There are a number of articles ( some by ethanol industry) on ethanol and its effects. I have a $300.00 carb off my garden tractor setting on shelf that was run on ethanol and ate up the float needle valve seat which is aluminum and part of carb and not replaceable.
 
(quoted from post at 14:44:07 03/01/17) "The idea that non-ethanol gas didn't gum up or get water in it is pure fantasy."

I have failed to find where anyone has claimed this.

That said, pre EPA/ethanol gasoline could be stored much, much longer before the now all too common aged gasoline problems manifested themselves.

BTDT.

Dean
ean, let them try this with a barrel of today's E10 or E85: In era of 1960's, my brother kept barrels of 100 octane leaded gas for his drag cars. Around 1970 he got married, sold drag cars, and went the family way of so many young carefree men.. :( . Then around 2000 when Mom died & AT&T 'stole' her property, that old garage was being torn down and I noticed a half full sealed barrel still there after all those years. Smelled OK, looked OK, so I used it up and my Farmall SMTA liked it just fine and the exhaust pipe went back to that old familiar gray, until it was all used up.
 
(quoted from post at 09:07:29 02/28/17) I don't want to start the ethanol blend vs. non blended fuels dialogue, its been hammered to death on this site. What I will say is how long are you leaving fuel set in a machine? All gasoline will varnish after a while. Leaving a sticky glue like substance in carbs and lines. Are you using any additive to your ethanol blended gas to lengthen its shelf life? Are you running the machine until all fuel is used up from the carburetor or tank? I only use carb cleaner aerosol from the auto parts store, sometimes also use brakeclean. But I don't have carb troubles. I used e-10 in everything. I use an additive. On small machines I run them out of fuel between uses. Maybe I'm just "lucky" or maybe our e-10 is different. just my experience and my way of dealing with blended fuel. gobble

Still got a LOT of reading to do as I'm only on the 3rd post, but up here, I make sure to put things away for our long winter with about a 1/2 tank of E-10. Can't hardly find pure unleaded around here. Anyway, come Spring, I'll top off the tank and start 'er up. Never seem to have any problems.

Can't help but wonder if part of the reason is our lack of hot summer temps, or maybe because things never dry out here. Either way, everything runs great even if not used for several years. I have an old Poulan Pro chainsaw that wasn't used for quite a few years. Again, I topped the tank when I needed it and it started and ran great. But then, all my tools are stored in a cool, dark and, in this area, always-damp place.
 
One more thought -- It would seem that there is a VERY wide difference of opinions/experiences here. Some people have trouble while others do not. I have to assume that many of the machines on both sides are the same, as are many of the environmental factors. So what's left?

"Could" it be that the problem might actually come from something other than the fuel??????? Like, what are the gaskets/seals made of in a carb that gums/varnishes up? How clean is the fuel that goes into the machine? Do people use oil on the air filters? What about moisture or other impurities in the bulk tanks where you buy it?

I've been hearing this same "discussion" for many years, as has everyone else here. So I just have to ask, is the "gas" really the ultimate problem here?!?!?
 
Gasoline is a highly refined product with a certain chemical composition with very specific characteristics. One characteristic of gas is volatility, a term used to describe how easily and under what conditions the gas vaporizes so it can be efficiently burned in your car's engine. Hydrocarbons in the gas react with oxygen to produce new compounds that eventually change the chemical composition of the fuel. This leads to gum and varnish deposits in the fuel system.


The most highly volatile components in gasoline also tend to evaporate over time. As they do, the remaining fuel's volatility and ability to combust properly degrades. The less volatile the fuel, the less effectively it burns in your engine. The result is diminished engine performance. Your engine may still start and run, but it probably won't run as well. Gas left "for years" in a ventilated gas take (like a car or a tractor) will result in stale gas that won't combust properly. If you've never heard of this before I have to wonder how much time you've spent around internal combustion engines.
 
No disagreement with your statement but pre EPA/ethanol gasoline could definitely be stored much much longer without todays issues than post EPA/ethanol gasoline can be.

Where did I say that the composition would not change over time or that engine performance would not be affected when stored for long periods in ventilated containers?

BTDT.

Dean
 
I agree 100%....We had lots more fuel related problems in the 1950's and 1960's than we do now..I remember taking the tractor and combine sediment bowls off continually to get rid of water-etc....Carbs gummed up and had to be cleaned all the time..

My 1997 LT133 John Deere lawnmower is 20 years old and the carburetor has never been off it..
 
I run the same fuel in all my gas engines - they sit around roughly the same amount of time. My two generators and pressure washer always plug up the float jet. Easy to clean with thin wire but annoying.

None of the other carbs clog up, lawn tractors, chainsaws, cars etc. None of them. The common factor seems to be how vented the float bowel is. The ones that dry out when the fuel tank is shut off are the problem units.

The only thing I've ever had that clogged so bad was a skidoo in the 1980's - float valve would gum up in the mikuni.
 
That doesn't surprise me, JMOR.

I've been doing this stuff far too long to believe all of the nonsense regurgitated by the ethanol supporters, nearly all of whom have a vested interest in the use of ethanol as a motor fuel.

Dean
 
After over 60 years in this business, lots of carburetors and stale gasoline, I will tell you the one major difference. Storage conditions. Up north here, it is rare to have gasoline problems with equipment that is normally used during the summer and stored during the winter. Equipment that sits all summer and used in the winter is a totally different story.

Most people use chain saws in cold weather so they sit all summer sizzling in the heat and evaporating all the high ends of the gasoline mixture. Snow blowers, another problem child. I never drained or conditioned a fuel tank or carburetor on a lawn mower in my life. By the time I am done using them in the fall, the hot weather is gone. I do go through storage procedures on fuel systems that sit idle during hot weather. Keep it cool and sealed it lasts a good long time. Warm and vented it will evaporate and leave the stinky varnish behind.

Ethanol does have some different things that happen in extended storage but not usually tar like symptoms in particular. The worst tarred up mess in an engine from stale gasoline I ever saw, was the year the 706 came out new. Fortunately, it was only used in an older tractor at the time.
 
"...s the "gas" really the ultimate problem here?!?!? "

Yes, but the ethanol supporters will defend its use until the next (inevitable) ice age.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 22:00:30 03/01/17) "...s the "gas" really the ultimate problem here?!?!? "

Yes, but the ethanol supporters will defend its use until the next (inevitable) ice age.

Dean
t is really very simple......just add a little water to ethanol and see the resulting goo. No rocket science required! BTDT
 
Ethanol fuel is an option here in Australia , you can buy it for a few cents less a litre if you want to . The other fuels , whatever octane they are have no Ethanol at all in them .
[u:7961e67ba7] But [/u:7961e67ba7] the Ethanol free fuels gunk up my small engines something fierce if I leave them in the tank for too long , a stinking mess of varnish and gel deposits .
So at least here in Oz it can't only be Ethanol's fault , some other additive or lack of refinement must be the culprit .
As far as Lead in fuel goes Australia was quite late in removing it from readily available fuels . I still have one jerry can of leaded super petrol left that is more than twenty years old , its still fine , I use it in one old water pump that hasn't got hardened valve seats and never have a problem .
 
(quoted from post at 18:32:12 03/01/17) One more thought -- It would seem that there is a VERY wide difference of opinions/experiences here. Some people have trouble while others do not. I have to assume that many of the machines on both sides are the same, as are many of the environmental factors. So what's left?

"Could" it be that the problem might actually come from something other than the fuel??????? Like, what are the gaskets/seals made of in a carb that gums/varnishes up? How clean is the fuel that goes into the machine? Do people use oil on the air filters? What about moisture or other impurities in the bulk tanks where you buy it?

I've been hearing this same "discussion" for many years, as has everyone else here. So I just have to ask, is the "gas" really the ultimate problem here?!?!?

Yes, I believe it is, but it depends on the specific blends you get locally.
 
(quoted from post at 09:56:01 03/02/17)
(quoted from post at 18:32:12 03/01/17) One more thought -- It would seem that there is a VERY wide difference of opinions/experiences here. Some people have trouble while others do not. I have to assume that many of the machines on both sides are the same, as are many of the environmental factors. So what's left?

"Could" it be that the problem might actually come from something other than the fuel??????? Like, what are the gaskets/seals made of in a carb that gums/varnishes up? How clean is the fuel that goes into the machine? Do people use oil on the air filters? What about moisture or other impurities in the bulk tanks where you buy it?

I've been hearing this same "discussion" for many years, as has everyone else here. So I just have to ask, is the "gas" really the ultimate problem here?!?!?

Yes, I believe it is, but it depends on the specific blends you get locally.

It also depends on the age of the equipment, what repair parts are used, etc. I can absolutely guarantee that if you put my local ethanol gas mix in some older Pioneer saws that the fuel cap will swell to the point you need Channel Locks to remove it. Same fuel in some older Homelites will turn the fuel lines to gummy worms.
 
Dean I am not supporting E I only state on this farm/business we have 34 air cooled units that operate on ethanol fuel and have very little like almost no engine trouble. I am also one of those that think it is where or how the equipment is stored rather than the use of the ethanol gas. If anything the ethanol actually seems to help in these parts. Just MY experience.
 
And made a nasty mess of your engine's combustion chamber and contaminates your oil.

On residue then and now, we still had residue, called varnish and smelled like varnish, and got hard like varnish. Just that it was the color of varnish. I just cleaned out the fuel system of a neighbor's Honda 13 hp and the residue was off white, crystalline and hard. A good soaking in Berryman's Chem Tool and hand tools cleaned it up. I bought a new carb for it thinking I couldn't get the existing one cleaned out but I did so I have the new one on the shelf.

I went to buy a Cushman Eagle once and it had been sitting for a very long time with a tank full of gasoline, back in the mid '70's for a time line. In "kicking the tires" and deciding if I wanted to buy it, while talking to the owner, I removed the fuel cap and peered into the fuel tank. I don't remember the level of the crud, but the tank was half full of solid varnish. I said that no way would I get that mess cleaned up and walked away from it.
 
Again, where did I say: "Where did I say that the composition would not change over time or that engine performance would not be affected when stored for long periods in ventilated containers?"

Your statement above in no way resembles my statement.

Dean
 
(quoted from post at 13:05:00 03/02/17) "Such problems were essentially non existent pre ethanol."
or some, we have to define "such problems" more specifically, since this is a wandering thread. Before E, there was varnish left behind when enough gasoline evaporated, but not the deteriorated/swelled lines and the snot-like goo that later looks like hard crystals when dried that we see today. There is a difference. Far back when GM exported cars/trucks to Brazil, those exports had some different fuel components, including lines just because the E fuel down there was found to damage these, thus the retrofit & production change. Today vehicles, designed & built after E should not exhibit such problems, but "yesterday's" tractors were mostly built prior. I for one an not saying don't use it, I do, but just don't let it sit too long in vented containers or it will definitely cause problems in older equipment and the smaller the engine, the worse the problem. I fix them.
 
Yes, it is real!

Walbro, the world’s largest carburetor manufacturer and leading supplier of fuel injection, ignition and fuel systems components, announced today the release of a new ethanol-proof metering diaphragm technology that greatly improves carburetor life and performance consistency. Walbro will be demonstrating the technology in booth 7212 at the GIE+Expo show in Louisville, KY on October 21 – 23, 2015.

Walbro’s new Spiral Diaphragm technology incorporates advanced, ethanol-resistant materials to ensure consistent performance from the factory to the field in both year-round and seasonal use equipment. “Traditional rubber-based diaphragm materials become brittle and deteriorate with age” states Tim Grifka, Walbro’s Vice President of Quality. “In time, this affects starting and running performance of gasoline powered handheld equipment. As the ethanol content in fuel increases, this process is accelerated, and is especially noticeable in seasonal use equipment where the diaphragm dries out during long periods of storage. Walbro’s new Spiral diaphragm eliminates these problems by incorporating materials that are unaffected by ethanol and other chemicals commonly used in commercially available fuels.”


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Many similar parts and articles out there on older classics such as Jag, Aston Martin, and on and on.
 
I do the same and never any trouble, we have had E10 here since the 70s, My weed wacker sat for 10 yrs and I had to clean the carb, But never had any other problems, I wonder if some places are changing to E15?. E85 isnt readily available and I wouldn't use it anyway, I know that causes trouble.
 
I don't know where you were getting this supposed E10 back in the 1970s. I do remember seeing a fuel that was tried out in my area as "gasohol" around 1977 or so. This was gasoline blended with METHANOL, NOT ETHANOL. It never sold well, and was discontinued to the best of my knowledge. I tried it, got lousy mileage, and gave up on it.
I have NOT seen E10 around this part of the country until the Renewable Fuels Act of 2007. That was when I began to see more and more of the E10 showing up. That is a far cry from 30 or 40 years ago.
I will say that Ethanol HAS been used in much smaller quantities (less than 3%) as an oxygenator from about 1995 or so.
I therefore challenge your statement that you have been using E10 since the 1970s.
 

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