OT-Federal Pacific Fuse Box

Scott D Orbaker · Feb 12, 2017

Way off topic but need some info.
Can anyone explain how to remove a pull out fuse block/holder from an old F/P fuse box? Talking about a cartridge type holder used as a main fuse. There is no power connected to it presently- it is located in an out building that once had it's own power feed. I want to remove the holder to check how the bus bars(power strips) are set up. BTW, it is a model 1512-66 if it makes a difference.
Haven't been able to find an adequate diagram/picture online.

Sorry for the long post and Thanks for any help provided.

Scott

Dusty MI · Feb 12, 2017

If it's a typical 60 amp The pull out on the left is the main with 2 60 amp cartage fuses. Off the bottom of that each leg goes to 2 of the screw in fuse holders. The other pull out cartage fuse holder each leg goes to a terminal, usually the electric stove.

And yes they just pull out. There could be some corrosion holding it in.

Dusty

Scott D Orbaker · Feb 13, 2017

Thanks for the reply Dusty.
What I want to know is how to remove the part that the pull out plugs into. Also, on my panel the 2 pull outs are mounted 1 above the other not side by side.

Scott

4520BW · Feb 13, 2017

Have never seen a Federal Pacific box before but every year in arc flash training they say do not use them as the breakers fail to trip.

Dusty MI · Feb 13, 2017

(quoted from post at 04:53:05 02/13/17) Have never seen a Federal Pacific box before but every year in arc flash training they say do not use them as the breakers fail to trip.

I started in the construction industry as an electrical apprentice in 1968. So most likely I've seen every make of electrical breaker panel made, and I would judge Federal Pacific at the bottom.

Dusty

BobReeves · Feb 13, 2017

I would pull the inner cover and look, should be obvious once the inner cover is off. Not familiar with that particular box but never seen one that didn't have an inner cover that was removed to get to the terminals. Should also give you access to the fuse holders and how they are mounted.

GarryinNC · Feb 13, 2017

Could have screws going through the back of the metal box and threading into the fuse block, holding it from that direction. Would it be difficult to take the box loose from the wall and inspect the back side of it. Earlier today, I looked at one similar to what you describe, on an old house on our property. It is still in use and has a hot fastened to each side of the fuse block. The Main and Range fuse holders sit on top of each other, not side by side. The round glass fuses sit two on each side of the main fuse block, not four in a row across the bottom. I did not see a brand, it has been in use without a front cover for years. Not too good.

Ray(MO) · Feb 13, 2017

Federal Pacific boxes had a problem with catching on fire, just replaced mine that got hot and melted plastic parts that held bars to the box. Search Federal Pacific to read about them.

BarnyardEngineering · Feb 14, 2017

The problem is with Federal Pacific BREAKER boxes. The "Stab-Lok" types specifically.

This subject is about a Federal Pacific FUSE box. Obsolete, but no more fire danger than any other 80 year old fuse panel.

Leroy · Feb 14, 2017

Not that brand but I have taken others apart. On the backside there should be a few spots of some black looking stuff in, do not have what it is called. Take an ice pick and dig it out, under you will find screw heads, Just unscrew the screws and everything will come out. I have only one breaker box on the place, everthing else is those fuse boxes. Years ago the lignman for the power company was out for something and I mentioned that my main box was a fuse box but I have the 100 anp fuses, not the 60 in it. Thinking at that time about having it replaced and he said it was better safer than any breaker box. The only thing that would make a breaker box any safer than a fuse box is any idiot can unscrew a 15 amp fuse on a 14 guage wire that he overloads and screw a 30 amp fuse in. Most of those itiots would not know how to change a breaker. I learned how to do wireing over the parts counter of the local electrical store back in 1968 after I had to learn how to do it to straighten out the mess that the electrician Dad had hired to wire the place had made when we just bought the place. He had nothing as was supposed to be.

Hoenes · Feb 14, 2017

We replaced my son's a few years ago. Breakers were hard to find, and very expensive. Electricians at work, joked,calling them "welders". Take a hot and a neutral, and weld with them, without throwing a breaker. I saved the main breaker, if anyone needs one. (Trade for a 12 pack)

Scott D Orbaker · Feb 15, 2017

Gary,
That sounds just like the set up I have. Mine is mounted in the wall so the fromy is flush with the wall.

Texasmark1 · Feb 18, 2017

I have one running my house I built in 1979. It's the split system rather than the main breaker. As I recall the code allowed 1 or 6 max switches to control power. This has 5 sets you can
use for high power application with separate breakers and one 60 amp 240 to control the lighter loads.

In answering your question I'd close all breakers. Get an ohm meter and get on first one 240 feed terminal and then the other. Ohm between the feed and all the output terminals on the
breakers. The ones connected to that feed will show a short. Do the same to the other feed to check your accuracy.

OT-Federal Pacific Fuse Box

Scott D Orbaker

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Dusty MI

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Scott D Orbaker

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4520BW

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Dusty MI

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BobReeves

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GarryinNC

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Ray(MO)

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BarnyardEngineering

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Leroy

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Hoenes

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Scott D Orbaker

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Texasmark1

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