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18v Lithium-ion Repair (up-date)

T

TimnSEVA

Member
Not the best looking job but it works. Cleaned and scuffed well was key. Solder would stick to tabs but not the cell as I believe the cell would not
get hot enough. Took a old soldering iron and heated the tip with a torch to cherry red and used that to heat the bottom of cell before trying to
solder. It seemed to help as it stuck, how well time will tell. Built up solder then filed it off to fit tight to lower half of case when i put it back
together. Hopefully it will keep it in contact if the solder fails.. Thanks for all the advise.
a247828.jpg
 
How many watts was your iron? A small iron won't get cell hot enough. I have no problems with a 140 watt gun.
 
Hello timnseva,

Glade you got it glued up. It does not have to look pretty, just as long as it works right? If you have not charged the pack yet, charge it slowly and discharge it at low amp draw. Even though the pack electronics will equalise the cells, its a good practice to do it, as it give all the cell a better chance to take a equal amount of charge,

Guido.
 
No sure as it is very old. No problem melting solder but not enough to get cell hot. I believe that was my issue.
 
For under $15 HF sells a 140 watt gun. Knock off of a weller. Got one after my weller bit the dust, fell off workbench too many times.
 
Hello timnsiva,

If you have a way to check amp draw rate I would recommend no more then 20% of cell rated capacity. Your cells are 1300 mah, so about 250 mah would be o.k. an automotive bulb that draws 1/4 amp or even a power resistor if you have one. Apllying ohms law it would take an 80 ohms resistor, 10 watts would be my choice. An automotive instrument cluster light bulb would also work. Cycle the pack a couple of te to be sure. Let me know how you make out,

Guido.
 
Do individual cells have the discharge protection like a complete li-ion pack? I was always told its not a great idea to bypass the discharge protection and deep discharge lithium packs, unstable when in low state of charge.
 
Hello Ken Macfarlane,

The cells that have a raised vented cap have the voltage protection. Sometimes I can bring them back by removing the cap. If I measure voltage through the cap then I try a manual charger there. Sometimes the protection circuit does not let a good cell charge as smart chargers NEED to see voltage to start charging. Only way to charge the cell is by removing the vented cap. Usually they charge right up. Many cells do not have that circuit anyway so I use them for other projects. By the way a totally discharged LiIon can be charged at a low charge rate, usually I do it at an amp rate that will fully charge the cell in 14 hours. In other words I use the cell capacity devided by 14 to set the charge rate . They will usually lose some of the capacity though, but good for other projects. Actually ones the cell reaches 1 volt, if I am near the charger I can use the cell's full capacity rating to finish charging the cell,

Guido.
 
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