Table saw dado question

glennster

Well-known Member
So i have a delta table saw, its a smaller one, not the big unifence one. Anyhoo, i want to make some box joints, 3/4 inch. The stackable dado i
have will only fit about 5/8 inch on the arbor before i run out of threads on the blade mounting shaft. (Arbor). Is there some type of adapter or
extension that goes on the shaft to cut a wider dado? I also have an older craftsman table saw, same length shaft. Really dont want another
table saw. Any thoughts?
 
I would probably just make 1/2" fingers and be happy with it.

A Craftsman Molding Head might do it if you can find the right sized cutters, but making finger joints that big would be kind of scary with that tool.
 
I'd be inclined to go with wheres waldo's suggestion and do it with multiple passes. What you want to do is fairly exacting, anyway, and having to make all your dados in two passes would obviously add a significant amount of time to the process. The thing to consider is whether doing that will add as much time as you'll spend coming up with a way to do it in single passes. Of course, if you foresee different complications arising from doing it that way, the amount of time might not be the most important consideration.

Stan
 
I don't know of a safe way to do that but that said I don't know how big your project is but if you are working with standard 3/4 lumber which measures less. I wouldn't go over 1/2" anyway I have made a number of projects with box joints and usually go 1/2" or 3/8", 1/4" if I am working with 1/2" lumber just my 2 cents. Like I said I don't know your project. BTW Utube has pretty neat videos.
 
I have a Delta Contractors saw. I think that is the type you are talking about. I have the same problem. There are usually and inner and an outer heavy washer/blade stabilizer on them. I usually pull one of those off when I put the dado blades on. Try that.

OTJ
 
Yup thats the saw. I did remove the outer washer to get 5/8 out of the stack dado. I am going to be cutting 1x10 and 1 x12 number 2 pine boards to make bee hive bodys. Planning on doing about 15 or so bodys so thats quite a few cuts.
 
Your saw may not have the power for a 3/4 slot. Settle for a narrower slot or make two passes. You will have better luck for a good fit if you can do the job in one pass.
 
Find a friend with a shaper. Or buy a used one off ebay. The old Craftstman are pretty bulletproof.
 
I have made alot of bee boxes and my suggestion is to forget the finger

joints and just cut dado joints. I have used them for years , just glue

and nail from both sides. No problems
 
ever heard of a wobble blade ?works good on small stuff like that .nothing to set up .cuts upto 7/8 but i would not trust that width .
 
I just take both my washers off. On the Craftsman there is still clearance. That is the only issue, clearing the table opening.
 
If you're going to do a lot of these and want them to come out nice, you might consider springing for a dovetail jig for your router. I have this <a href="https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-4212-12-Inch-Deluxe-Dovetail/dp/B0006AAS8S">Porter-Cable jig</a> that does dovetail and box joints up to 12 inches long.

The problem with "wobble" dado blades is they don't cut a square dado, leaving a convex bottom to the dado. That's not a problem when the dado isn't exposed, but it's going to be obvious with 3/4" box joints.
 
I agree; that's the premier 'jig' right there. Produces furniture grade dovetails and there is so many things that you can use it for. Recipe boxes, dresser drawers, and Bee 'Supers' (I think that's the term) A person could make money turning these out, as they are the strongest joint possible and beekeepers want the best.
 
mark, thanks for the info on this. i just ordered it from amazon. got the set with the extra adapters and the fixed base router too. well, now i have 2 table saws, this will make my third router, 2 radial arm saws, 2 power mitre saws, plus a host of small hand power tools. i gotta learn how to cut a board the right length!!
 
> i just ordered it from amazon. got the set with the extra adapters and the fixed base router too.

Jeez, Glenn, I didn't expect you to run out and drop three bills! But I'm sure you'll be happy with it. It clamps the boards tightly in place, and it's reasonably easy to set up. And you can never be too rich, too thin or have too many tools.

> i gotta learn how to cut a board the right length!

Ya mean you haven't bought yourself a Board Stretcher yet?
 
flyinstyle said it right. fingers don't grow back. those dado blades make beautiful cuts but they just love taking finger off too. be careful.
 
Glennster:

You need to apply the K.I.S.S. principle.

Mark all of your boards and then cut to the "inside" line with your normal "straight" blade; that should give you an 1/8" kerf, then remove the remaining with your 5/8" Dado. End product: a 3/4" Dado cut.


:>)
 
(quoted from post at 21:37:36 12/10/16) while I do not like them for quality control a Wobble Dado Blade is what you need.

My suggestion too. With a wobble head the slower you go the better the finish.
 
sooooo....mark, where can a fella get one of them board strechers at????? i looked at rocklers and grizzly and they dont have em on their website. lol!! im thinkin, maybe a biscuit jointer, then if its too short i can add some to the board!!! rocklers have a box joint jig on their website, but it didnt have very good reviews. grizzly had a different style, but it doesnt do dovetails , just box joints. the one you posted sure looked a lot more versatile, and a pretty sturdy looking outfit. i figgure as soon as i get it, i'll load up some lumber and the fixture and drive up to your place so you can teach me how to use it!!!!!! i'll even spring for donuts!!
 

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