Torpedo heater update

300jk

Well-known Member
Well yesterday the air pump rebuild kit came that I ordered. Before installing the kit I drained the tank and flushed it and added fresh kerosene. I also checked both the air line and fuel line for cuts or obstructions and cleaned the tank pick up filter. Then I installed new pump kit and filters. It runs a lot better now and will keep the nose cone nice and red. I am still not building the right pump pressure though. It should be 8.5 max. And with the adjusting screw maxed out I am a little over 6. Seems to be running fine with little fumes and making a ton of heat.now I can't figure out why my pump pressure is still on the low side after going through everything two or three times. Heater is usable but not 100 percent. Thanks for everyone's input. Tried a new nozzle to and that made no difference.
 
My heaters are all smaller than yours but it seems that it has to be either
restricted air intake or your rotor and vanes are not doing their job. Just guessing.
Good luck.
 
I believe the air pump housing can be adjusted to the rotor. Something like .003" clearance at the top. Also, if the sides of the housing or cover are worn air can bypass along the sides of the rotor and vanes.
 

I had a torpedo heater that was only about 3 years old when it gave very similar troubles. I priced the parts I thought it needed, and also the special tools needed, and went out and bought another brand new heater for just a few dollars more.
 

I think "jeff" has it figured out. Ir really shouldn't be rocket surgery to get the proper air pressure, especially after tossing new parts at it.

The links in the text are NOT "clickable", but the same links are available below the text.

reddy_zpsgdiikxn6.jpg


http://reddyparts.com/rotor_closeup.htm

http://reddyparts.com/rotor_binds.htm

Obivously, you don't have a "binding" issue, but that link describes how to set the gap.
 
Thanks for all the replies again. When I was putting the pump back together I did notice two things. First the pump housing is does have a little movement meaning I can adjust the rotor gap at the top. Second was the plate that seals the pump housing was showing some wear in the shape of where the rotor would be. I am going to look into these two areas and will let everyone know what I come up with. Thanks a bunch.
 

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