band saw

504 · Nov 24, 2016

I have a cheap saw(64 1/2 blade) that does a decent job. After I broke a blade I got thinking about what tooth per inch you have had the best luck with? I mostly cut mild steel and I don t worry about speed,I just need something that will do the job and last a little while.

old · Nov 24, 2016

I have found the more teeth pure inch the longer they last and the better they cut

Steve@Advance · Nov 24, 2016

This is a complex subject.

There are a lot of variables to consider, thickness, shape, cutting straight or curves... Generally, you want to have 3 or more teeth in contact with the work. That is sometimes impossible when working with thin metal. So, obviously there is no "one size fits all" solution. Try searching some band saw blade selection sites. I tried to link one from Lennox, but it won't let me.

The biggest problem with cutting metal on a home duty band saw is the blade speed is way too fast. This doesn't effect the speed it will cut, but tremendously shortens the blade life because it burns the teeth.

Unless you have already done so, you'll need to add a speed reduction pulley and shaft to get the blade speed down to around 200 FPM (feet per minute).
Blade Selector

Little Ed · Nov 24, 2016

I like to run a 10/14 variable tooth blade. that's 10 teeth per inch alternating with 14 teeth per inch, in a standard raker set. I think a wave set would work better, but I have never found one.

jon f mn · Nov 25, 2016

I think mine are 14 teeth/in. Buying good quality blades is at least as important as the tooth count for longevity. I tried the variable tooth blades and didn't like them, so I stick to standard blades.

TimV · Nov 25, 2016

Steve: assuming his 64.5" saw is one of the usual HF/Northern/Grizzly/TSC/etc., etc. horizontal/vertical 4x6 jobbies, he shouldn't need to slow it down any further--they're primarily meant as metal saws, not wood saws, and are geared accordingly from the factory. I've had mine for 10+ years and have never had a problem with blade burning due to excessive speed.

Leroy · Nov 25, 2016

Never had speed problems and burning with mine. Over 15 years old and traveling tent sale company, don't remember company but have not heard of them for years. The problem comes if I happen to get a harder than normal piece that I am trying to cut., That or tooth too course for thickness I am trying to cut. I try to use a mid range tooth count. And I need to put a new blade on mine, cutting twisted now from one side os tooth going and other not. had cheaper blades that did not last long but now I use TSC blades.

Steve@Advance · Nov 25, 2016

I should have asked what his speed is.

As long as it is designed as a metal saw, it will have the right speed. I just assume "wood saw" when I hear cheap band saw. So many people try to get by with using the wrong speed, not knowing what is going wrong.

Sorry for the confusion.

TimV · Nov 25, 2016

No problem--the rest of your info was good, I just wanted to clarify that point. I'm linking a site with a bunch of info on these saws, including modifications and such--the info hasn't been updated in a while, but it's still pretty much accurate. He recommends an Irwin bi-metal blade with 10-14 TPI for general use, and I've used the same blade with good results before myself. He also provides an Enco link to the blade, but as Enco's now fully back under MSC's umbrella I'm giving what should be the MSC link here:

https://www.mscdirect.com/product/details/03165917?rItem=03165917
4x6 bandsaw stuff

4wdtom · Nov 25, 2016

If you cut thin sections fine tooth is better, for solid or thick sections you want fewer. You need to figure out what you mostly cut and get a blade that is right for you. Of course you can have several of different tooth counts if you want to be changing blades for different jobs as they come along. You can cut thin sections with a course blade if you are careful to control the feed so you don't get a tooth hooked on the material and stop the blade or rip off teeth. Controlling the feed on the 4x6" bandsaws isn't easy unless you do it by hand.

Little Ed · Nov 25, 2016

I should also add that the 10/14 variable is a bi-metal blade. I was getting very short run times from carbon steel blades. Also buy a quality name such as Lennox or Starrett. (there are others but these are the two I use). One of the places I worked for was buying no name Chinese brands to save money,and accusing me of deliberately making them fail, until I got the plant manager to come out and show me haw to do it. He got about three inches of cut on 12 ga hot rolled. Up to that time I had been getting a week or more of use out of Starrett brand.

504 · Nov 25, 2016

Yep it is just a Buffalo made in China saw that I picked up in a trade. I have bought good blades and the last one I fried in the first cut(I grabbed a piece of AR steel thinking it was mild)since then it has been HF blades and thy do not do too bad,but breaking one made me think that I really have no idea what TPI I have been running. Thin stuff I use a cut off wheel,some things I use the cut off saw.
I do have a lot of options for a little home shop, and I do not pretend to know a lot about the finer points about what is needed to cut what. That is what I have you guys for

bill b va · Nov 26, 2016

i once replaced the worm gear in the gear box at work with one from a gear supplier . needed a slight modification (bore or keyway )long time ago .

band saw

504

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old

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Steve@Advance

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Little Ed

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jon f mn

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TimV

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Leroy

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Steve@Advance

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TimV

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504

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