Farmall M: Radiator - Crud, Gunk / Carburetor Leak

blue33

New User
Just bought a Farmall M a few wks ago. It's in nice shape...bought it to be used as a "toy" for now. Drove it around a little, parked in shed for about 10 days...no leaks.

Carburetor: Took it out Sunday, drove it around a little, ran out of gas...poured about 1 gallon of gas in and it ran like a faucet out of the carburetor. Any ideas why this would happen all of a sudden?

Oil: Went out to shed last night, and noticed oil had been leaking on the floor below the oil pan. Want to check it closer in daylight, but again, why would this happen all of a sudden?

Radiator: Getting colder here in southern WI the last few days, so wanted to check the coolant. Thick gray/brownish liquid in radiator. Can't even see the needle on my tester, because it's so dark/thick. Is this ok? Should I change it before Spring? Is there another way to test the coolant?

Again, no leaks when I bought it, or after I got it home, then these 2 leaks occur after a brief (5 minutes) drive around the property.

Any and all help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Welcome to vintage tractor ownership. Yep, they do leak sometimes, but they don't come with a payment plan like the new ones tend to have.

Of all your problems, the most urgent is the radiator. I would suggest draining the coolant and mixing up some fresh for the tractor, just to be on the safe side. Here in NC I use 50/50 mix ethylene glycol. But it rarely gets down to 0 degrees here. Do what is recommended in your area. The oil leak and the gas leak can be put off a while if you aren't needing the tractor. But if the coolant isn't up to it, it can ruin the block just sitting there. If you can flush it or fill it and drain it an extra time it may help to get some of the crud out of there.
 
First off......you didn't tell us how long this heap has been sitting.
You drove it around and shook all of the crap loose! Guess this is a
good thing and you must act immediately! !!!!!! Firstly purchase 50/50
mix antifreeze and flush and clean the cooling system. Wash it out
really good. Change the oil and filter. You might need to clean the
carb or give it a couple off TAPS...read again TAPS with a wrench and
the float just might settle in. Take the little plug out of the bottom
of the carb and let all of the crap out. There are guys on here who
can tell you how much of everything and types of oil,filters,how much
antifreeze,etc. Hurry hurry and do it ASAP. Have fun!
 
blue33, Can't help with your carb, and the oil leak might just be a sign of age on a seal or gasket. Your coolant sounds like
someone mixed some red (GM Dexcool) antifreeze with the old green. I'd get it out now and refill with the "global" (yellow)
antifreeze that will mix with anything. Any that you have left over you can use in any modern car, truck, other tractors and
equipment.
 
The carb is leaking because it is flooding.

Probably a chunk of rust in the needle valve on the float holding the needle off the seat. Take a look at the sediment bowl, there should be a screen above the bowl. Be sure it is in there and no holes, clean the bowl. While the bowl is off, open the fuel valve and catch some fuel in a clean glass. If the fuel is contaminated with rust, water, anything but clean gas, the tank needs to come off and be dumped, and rinsed out with clean gas. Be very careful, any scraping, blowing, tumbling, or bumping will probably start a leak!

Once it's back together, pull the drain plug on the bottom of the carb, open the fuel valve, let some fuel flow through the carb to flush the line and needle valve. Replace the plug, see if the flooding stops. If not, try gently tapping on the carb bowl to see if it will stop. If not the carb will need to come apart and cleaned, possibly the float is sunk, possibly it will need a new needle/seat. Don't be afraid of it, the carb is simple, field serviceable.

The oil leak could be related to the carb problem. If it has been run with it flooding, the oil could be contaminated with gas, thus raising the level, and thinning it down. Check the level, smell and feel the oil for gas. Probably be a good idea to go ahead and change it. I would recommend 15w-40 diesel rated oil, and might try slightly under filling it. Sometimes that will help with leaks.

The coolant need to be flushed and changed ASAP. The corrosion inhibitors are gone, that's why it's rusty. Open the radiator drain and the block drain. If there is a thermostat, it needs to be removed temporarily. Hang the water hose in the radiator, adjust the flow to keep water flowing in as fast as it is draining out. Start the engine and run at full governed speed while the system flushes. This will move fresh water through the radiator and block. Reinstall the thermostat, close the valves and fill with 50/50 green antifreeze.

Even if you can't get it running, the rusty coolant needs to go. You can drain the block and radiator and leave it until you can get it running. Since you couldn't see to test it, best to assume it may only be water!

Speaking of water, might want to crack the transmission drain plugs and see if there is water in the case. If it has been stored outside, good chance there is!
 
To test needles and seats you remove carb , blow into fuel line and flip carb upside down to see if needle and seat shuts of your air flow. Set proper float level too.
 
blue- Steve gave a good run down on your carb issue, but I would like to add that there is or should be a screen in the fitting where the fuel line attachs to the carb. You need to pull that fitting out of carb and make sure it is clean and in tack.That screen will generally keep debris from causing needle and seat leakage. Not sure if this site handles those separately, but I think you can get them from IH as well as some other online sources. When you ran the tank empty then added fuel it mostl likely stirred up some crud in the bottom of the tank. It then made its way into the needle and seat. Welcome to YT and Farmall ownership. FYI a tractor specific question like this would be better to post in "Tractor Talk" or under the Farmall and IH specific brand section.
 

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